CoverBlend Concealing Treatment Makeup SPF 20 is a remarkable full-coverage foundation that effectively conceals minor and major discolorations without feeling thick and greasy on the skin. Since this is a rather opaque makeup, we don’t agree with Exuviance’s claim that it provides “natural” coverage. But the effect, while perceptible, is certainly more attractive on the skin and easier to work with than DermaBlend or most other heavy-duty foundations you may have tried. The silicone-based formula features an excellent titanium dioxide– and zinc oxide–based sunscreen, and although it appears thick in the jar, it has a soft, light texture that is surprisingly easy to blend.
Concealing Treatment Makeup dries to a solid matte finish, which may not be to everyone’s liking, but you will certainly get more longevity out of it than you will with traditional creamy or greasepaint-type foundations. Those with normal to dry skin will definitely need to apply moisturizer before using this makeup, and you’re not likely to need any setting powder, unless you want to further enhance the matte effect (which can be a mistake). Almost complete coverage is achieved with one application, and it layers well for areas that need more camouflage.
Not all shades are praiseworthy, so be careful as some are too pink, peach, or rose for most skin tones. There are options for dark skin tones, although the titanium dioxide and zinc oxide sunscreen can result in a slightly ashen finish.
Note:Although this foundation provides broad-spectrum sun protection on its own, you must apply it liberally and evenly to get the stated level of protection. A sheer or spot application will not provide the amount of sun protection the label indicates. If you’re not likely to apply this foundation liberally, we recommend applying it over a moisturizer with sunscreen rated SPF 15 or greater and setting your foundation with a pressed powder rated SPF 15 or greater.
CoverBlend Concealing Treatment Makeup SPF 20 helps create a flawless complexion with superior, all-day coverage. Specially formulated with antioxidant-rich Polyhydroxy Acid Gluconolactone to soften fine lines and wrinkles, this concealing makeup promotes a smoother appearance while it conceals everything from minor flaws to major discolorations. In addition to outstanding coverage, it’s also formulated with a sunscreen - SPF 20 - to protect your skin from the sun’s harmful rays. From blemishes and birthmarks, to age spots, scars and uneven skin tones, with a variety of natural-looking shades available, you can conceal, treat and protect your skin with this long wearing makeup.
Active: Titanium Dioxide (9.2-17.6% Varies by shade), Zinc Oxide (2.1%), Other: Water, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Gluconolactone, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Isododecane, Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer, Isotridecyl Isononanoate, Polymethylmethacrylate, Sodium Chloride, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Hexyl Laurate, Behenoyl Stearic Acid, Arginine, Tocopheryl (Vitamin E) Acetate, Dimethicone Copolyol, Methicone, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Triethanolamine, Polyacrylic Acid, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Methylparaben, Chlorphenesin, May Contain: Iron Oxide Black, Iron Oxide Red, Iron Oxide Yellow
Exfoliation is the name of the game for this line! The original NeoStrata and Exuviance brands were created by Drs. Eugene Van Scott and Ruey Yu, the two researchers who own the original patent (actually, they hold over 80 patents) for the use of glycolic acid (AHA) in relation to its ability to diminish wrinkles, among other capabilities. Few lines offer reliable and effective formulations for exfoliation, so those that do deserve your attention. Well-formulated AHA products are those that have an effective concentration of AHAs and a base with an acidic pH that allows them to have maximum benefit. The exfoliation that AHAs provide reduces the thickness of the skin's outer layer, helping skin to quickly look smoother and feel softer, which in turn can solve many skin problems, including dryness, blemishes, sun damage, and skin discolorations. A good deal of research also shows that AHAs can help increase the thickness of the underlying layers of skin, improve skin structure, increase collagen production, and allow penetration of other skin-care ingredients. Moreover, NeoStrata is one of the only companies to sell a range of reliable sunscreens that also contain effective AHA formulations.
Both the NeoStrata (these products are reviewed separately) and Exuviance lines contain glycolic acid (AHA), but even more of these products contain a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) called gluconolactone (also patented by Scott and Yu), and for which similar claims are made. Gluconolactone is supposed to be gentler and longer acting than glycolic acid, and its delayed penetration is attributed to its larger molecular size. However, according to an article in Cosmetic Dermatology (July 1998), the skin can't tell the difference between the various effective AHAs, and the possibility of gluconolactone staying on the surface of skin longer than other AHAs did not prove out. So in terms of exfoliation and potential side effects, PHA ends up being as good as AHA. Gluconolactone may be slightly less irritating for some skin types, but this isn't quite the magic bullet for exfoliation NeoStrata claims, though it does indeed work when properly formulated (but so do glycolic and lactic acids). Another PHA NeoStrata uses is lactobionic acid. However, there is no definitive, published research establishing it as an effective alternative to (or partner for) other AHAs or BHA.
Beyond the numerous products that exfoliate (which is NeoStrata's main selling point) there's not much to get excited about, especially for what the company is charging. And it's upsetting that a dermatologist-driven, physician-sold line still has weak spots such as the occasional inclusion of irritating ingredients with no established benefit for skin and, believe it or not, a sunscreen that leaves skin vulnerable to UVA damage. NeoStrata has their act together when it comes to AHAs and PHA, but that tunnel vision has, in some respects, kept them from branching out to offer a better assortment of state-of-the-art products.
For more information about Exuviance, call (800) 225-9411 or visit www.neostrata.com.
Caution: Keep in mind that skin needs only one reliable exfoliant at a time. Exuviance sells so many good ones, you may be tempted to double (or triple) up, but doing so can backfire and be more irritating than helpful.
NeoStrata Exuviance Makeup
The small assortment of Exuviance makeup products takes the "makeup as skin-care" approach by including gluconolactone in all the makeup products. Although Exuviance makes much ado about gluconolactone being a gentler AHA alternative with advanced hydrating and antioxidant ability, information presented in Cosmetic Dermatology (July 1998) doesn't bear this out. That is, it's hard to see any better possibilities for gluconolactone than for the older, mainstay AHAs such as glycolic acid and lactic acid. What's not discussed are the effects on skin when multiple products containing gluconolactone are used. Although its reduced rate of penetration might make it less irritating, the fact remains that skin does not need multiple products for sufficient exfoliation.
The most encouraging news is that each Exuviance makeup product includes an effective sunscreen. As far as anti-aging goes, that feature is far more essential than the next AHA alternative. Exuviance makeup has changed hardly at all since it was last reviewed. The three foundations still do not offer a middle-of-the-road option when it comes to coverage. You're left to choose between the opaque CoverBlend makeups or the sheer Skin Caring option. The CoverBlend Concealing Treatment Makeup SPF 20 is truly in a class by itself when it comes to traditional full-coverage makeup, and it's highly recommended if you need significant coverage for discolored areas on the face or body. The tube concealer also offers full coverage (though the colors are not the most neutral around), and the loose powder is a fine, albeit overpriced, option.