Creme Ancienne
3.5 fl. oz. for $260
Last Updated:03.18.2015
Jar Packaging:Yes
Tested on animals:Yes
Review Overview

We had to step away from our computer for a moment before writing about this offensively priced, badly formulated product. Composed primarily of meadowfoam seed oil, this is no more the ultimate moisturizer for face and body than a unicycle is the ultimate mode of transportation! On the ingredient list, fragrant ingredients follow the meadowfoam seed oil, along with wax (Yes, wax, for $250!) and irritating fragrant oils. The vitamin E and chamomile are helpful, but again, for the money, and by any professional standards, these are not the ultimate ingredients for aging skin; at best they are meager options for beneficial skin care. Meadowfoam seed oil is a good, non-fragrant moisturizing oil for dry skin, but it shows up in many less expensive moisturizers, including several from Aveda. Even if this product were well-formulated, the jar packaging makes it even more pathetic (as if that were possible). What were these people thinking?


The ultimate moisturizer for face and body. This unique anti-aging formula visibly diminishes fine lines and wrinkles.


Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Beeswax (Cera Alba), Pentylene Glycol, Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil, Ormenis Multicaulis Flower Wax, Sodium Carbonate Decahydrate, Limonene, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil, Osmanthus Fragrans Flower Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Tocopherol, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral

Brand Overview

fresh At-A-Glance

Strengths: fresh provides complete product ingredient lists on their Web site; some good facial cleansers and a handful of praiseworthy makeup items.

Weaknesses: Very expensive; very fragrant; several products contain potent plant irritants; limited sunscreens; boring below-standard toners and masks; no viable exfoliant options (at least if you're aiming to avoid extraneous irritation); no products to manage acne or reliably lighten skin discolorations; the lip balm with sunscreen does not provide sufficient UVA protection.

The story of how Boston-bred "fresh" came into existence is full of compelling adjectives and phrases like "dynamic," "passions," "inspiration," and "destined to create." It seems that back in 1991, two happy newlyweds, both with artistic backgrounds, felt there was a void in the world of luxury bath soaps. They searched far and wide, but could not find a soap that met their criteria. Of course, they began experimenting, gained a following for what they developed, and yet another clone of The Body Shop was born.

Their success has led them from a single boutique in Boston to a series of shops in New York City and a presence in upscale department stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. In 2000, fresh was purchased by luxury good purveyor (and owner of Sephora) LVMH, which is not surprising given fresh's price point and positioning.

Naturally, given all of this attention, fresh quickly expanded beyond soaps. They now also offer "future of beauty" products that capitalize on such innocuous-sounding, good-for-you ingredients as black tea, rice, and soy, coupled with the latest scientific advances. In other words, according to fresh, they're giving you the best of nature and science, with a heavy accent on natural (even though in most cases it's the synthetic ingredients that are responsible for their product's texture and functionality).

In the marketing copy each fresh product includes a history of how it came to be. It's pleasant to read about products inspired by stories passed down from one generation to the next, and about cultural secrets that have been discovered, incorporated into cosmetic potions, and adorably packaged for your "fresh lifestyle" experience. However, we wouldn't encourage anyone to rely on fables and anecdotal information when it comes to making serious decisions about how to care for your skin, any more than you would do so to make dietary or health-care decisions. What your grandmother ate or what your great-grandmother put on her skin is no more relevant than basing your computer needs on what they were using back then. (Oh, that's right, there weren't computers back then—my point exactly.) We now know a lot more about skin care than ever before in history. Going back to the old ways may sound idealistic, but that doesn't take the best care of you.

Almost the entire fresh premise revolves around their products' fragrance content. For all their talk of cutting-edge technology and the wisdom of traditional remedies, what you will notice most about all of these products is the almost overpowering fragrance. Compared with countless other skin-care and hair-care lines, including Aveda, Bath & Body Works, and Origins, fresh is far more perfumed—and that spells trouble for all skin types. Perfume and eau de cologne, natural or otherwise, are serious problems for skin. The irony is that fresh's signature scents are what put them on the map, and what continue to enthrall consumers. (Women find it hard to give up fragrance in their skin-care products, just like lots of women can't eschew sun tanning, smoking, or using overly expensive skin-care products.) In contrast, many of the natural ingredients in fresh products are present only for show, not effect, and the effects from the beneficial plants are impeded by irritating plant extracts.

From facial skin care to body and hair care, fresh products are a collection of relatively standard to below-average formulations counting on the romanticized stories behind them to help them make the leap from store shelf to your home, and that seems to be happening quite a lot. However, very few of fresh's facial-care products have anything that approaches the current state of the art, especially in regard to interesting skin-identical ingredients, anti-irritants, or antioxidants. And for all the fancy posturing, their soaps are just that, soap, and the fragrance is the only unique aspect of each. None of this makes for superior skin care.

For more information about fresh, call (800) 373-7420 or visit www.fresh.com.

Fresh Makeup

Fresh's makeup offers very little to get excited about. Those who adore a lot of shimmer in their cosmetics will fare best with this line. The company's lineup includes very few matte options, and given the overwhelming prevalence of shimmer products, those over 40 should approach cautiously. This much shine works best on younger, unlined skin because shine makes wrinkles more apparent, not less. The packaging has a youth-oriented appeal, so clearly the marketing department knew who their customers were most likely to be.

Doubtless many shoppers of all ages have been lured to try Fresh cosmetics due to the beautiful packaging, but beautiful exteriors don't have anything to do with the quality of the product inside. If you shop carefully, there are a handful of products you'll probably be satisfied with, but be prepared to pay dearly; just as Fresh didn't skimp on the shimmer, it certainly didn't skimp on its retail pricing.

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!

The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

Member Comments
Summary of Member Comments
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ingredients changed.

one of the first ingredients on the web site is rose water. LOOK AT YOUR INGREDIENTS LADIES on the box. Now this crème is made with plain water. I honestly feel when they used rose water nothing could match this crème. I absolutely feel the difference since the formula was changed and I discontinued using it. Sadly it feels like an entirely different crème. Using plain water just makes it ordinary. The way it was however, honestly made my skin feel extraordinary.

Reviewed by
jennylee g
Beautypedia Team Response

Hi there!  I contacted a representative from Fresh and she confirmed that this product does indeed still contain rosewater.

-Beautypedia Team

Great for winter

I got this as a sample. I was shocked to see how expensive it is. I am in my late 40's and have very dry skin. Products like this are wonderful for me but I can understand why other people would find it too heavy. It moisturized beautifully, but I like thick, heavy, greasy moisturizers. Would I keep using it? Only if I can keep getting free samples. I certainly wouldn't pay $260 for any beauty product!

Reviewed by
Upsetting to read this is rated "poor"

I love this product, & especially their NEWER formula which only QVC carries now. It's CREAMY vs. dense like this original one. I pd $127 which is a reduced rate, but w/ ship+tax, it was $140 per 1-oz jar. It seriously hydrtates my parched 41 yr old skin like nothing else & doesnt irritate my skin like other moisturizers do (referring to new & old creme ancien). I will NOT use after reading Paula's review.AND THE NEW ONE HAS "PARFUM" (pro-aging, right?) which is why I read Paula's review!

Reviewed by
Stacey W
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