For what this costs, you should expect nothing less than a truly super serum. As it turns out, this water-based serum contains its share of problematic, helpful, as well as questionable ingredients. That adds up to a mixed bag of results (good and bad) and your skin deserves only what’s good for it.
The good news is that the serum contains an impressive mix of cell-communicating and skin-identical ingredients, with lesser amounts of antioxidants, although it does contain retinol and the packaging will keep these air-sensitive ingredients stable.
The bad news is that the second ingredient is witch hazel extract, which contains alcohol, and that’s not good for your skin. In addition, this contains epidermal growth factor (EGF), which also is problematic. EGF is a controversial ingredient. Although it can accelerate the growth rate of skin cells, how to slow down that growth rate is unknown, and uncontrolled cell proliferation is not healthy for anyone’s skin. Skin cells have receptor sites for EGF, and the concern is that when applied topically, it may stimulate unwanted cell growth. From studies involving wound healing, we know that at certain concentrations and for specific durations of application, EGF can cause cells to overproliferate. This overabundance of cells causes problems, one of which is cancer.
It is also not known if growth factors can penetrate skin far enough to actually exert a benefit, or detriment (Sources: Acta Biomaterialia, April 2010, Epublication; Cosmetic Dermatology, Second Edition, McGraw Hill, Baumann, Leslie MD, 2009, pages 5 and 23–24; and Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, May 2009, pages 4–13).
This serum also contains an unspecified blend of “fragrance oils,” which means you don’t know what you’re putting on your skin. All told, the negatives far outweigh the positives, to the point where this serum does not deserve consideration.
gloSuper Serum contains a slew of anti-aging ingredients to firm, lift, repairs and strengthen skin for optimal health and resilience. This product contains retinol, which increases sensitivity to UV rays. Daily sunscreen use is recommended.
Distilled Water, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Glycerin, Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3), Glycosaminoglycans/Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Matrixyl 3000 (Palmitoyl Oligopeptide-Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3), Retinol, Marine Oligopeptides, Epidermal Growth Factor (Egf), Superoxide Dismutase, Alpha Lipoic Acid, Phyllantus Emblica (Amla) Fruit Extract, L-Carnosine, Niacinamide, Spin Trap (Phenyl Butyl Nitrone), Xanthan Gum, Fragrance Oils, Dehydroacetic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzethonium Chloride
Another mineral makeup line has found its way into the over-marketed, overhyped, and inundated world of mineral makeup. The reason for this mineral-oriented explosion seems to be consumers' insatiable appetite for something new and the belief that the word "mineral" on a product label means it is a superior form of makeup. Mineral makeup isn't better for skin and it isn't the best way to get makeup on your face. In fact, because there are so many "mineral" products being sold, there isn't even a way to generalize what they contain because the formulas are completely random.
Claims for mineral makeup range from the sublime to the absurd, with the truth somewhere in the middle. Perhaps the most consistent claim made about mineral makeup products is that they are better for sensitive skin. That isn't the case. A mineral powder's granular nature makes it problematic for sensitive skin, and that slight abrasion over the skin is something to watch out for. The claim that mineral makeup is good for dry skin is physiologically impossible because minerals of any kind are absorbent and that means the moisture in your skin and whatever emollients you put on your face will be sucked up by the mineral powder. There are many types of foundation that work beautifully for sensitive and dry skin, but it is probably not in powder form.
When it comes to gloMinerals the only thing glowing you can count on are the claims. The press release for this makeup brand states it is a "clinical makeup system uniquely formulated for skincare professionals and their clients." The "advanced formulations" are said to combine UV protection with "pharmaceutical grade ingredients" and antioxidants. That sounds great, but the truth is there is nothing about any gloMinerals makeup product that is pharmaceutical grade; in fact, there is no such thing as pharmaceutical-grade makeup. gloMinerals products do not hold any advantage, for professionals (as in aestheticians) or anyone else; they are just powders, nothing more, nothing less. Not a single ingredient in any of the gloMinerals products is unique; the ingredients are found in almost any makeup line you care to name. That doesn't mean gloMinerals isn't worth a look, but it does mean the products aren't professional, aren't cutting edge, aren't worth the price, and certainly aren't something you need to try so you don't miss out on it.
What we find ethically distressing is that the company claims their products offer UV protection, but none of these products have an SPF rating or list any active sunscreen ingredients. Some of them do contain titanium dioxide, but unless it's listed as an active ingredient and the product has undergone the appropriate FDA testing to establish an SPF rating, you absolutely cannot rely on it for sun protection. Their claim of UV protection is either disingenuous or ignorant on the part of the company; either way, if a company can't get the sunscreen claim right, then you should think twice about any of its other claims. Plus, there are lots of companies that offer products with "mineral" in the name that do come with an SPF rating, do list the active ingredients on the label, and don't cost as much as gloMinerals products.
There are some key products to consider from gloMinerals, including their pressed-powder foundation, which definitely contains minerals; the main mineral is mica, a shiny mineral pigment that is used in thousands of makeup items. Oddly, several of the company's non-mineral products are excellent, including their cream lipstick, lip gloss, bronzing gel, and brush-on brow powder. The specialty products and those that add shine are no better than average, and the pencils are merely OK.
One more thing: gloMinerals talks up the antioxidants in their products. Most of the products contain a blend of vitamins (such as A, C, and E) with a couple of antioxidant plants such as green tea. Although adding antioxidants to makeup is a thoughtful touch, in most cases the amounts gloMinerals included are but a dusting. There's also the issue that the small amount of antioxidants won't last long in products packaged in clear jars and transparent glass bottles.
For more information about gloMinerals, call 1.800.232.0398 or visit www.gloprofessional.com.