Issima Happylogy Ultra-Penetrating Glowing Skin Essence won’t penetrate better than most water- and glycol-based serums, so aside from some film-forming agent and triglyceride, there isn’t much reason to consider this pricey product. Believe it or not, Guerlain claims the pro-endorphin complex in this product makes users “happy.” Happy is the last thing I would be if I spent money on this nearly do-nothing serum.
Water, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Peg-32, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propylene Glycol, Polyacrylamide, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Glycerin, Fragrance, Methylparaben, Poloxamer 407, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tromethamine, Chlorphenesin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Glycoproteins, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Extract, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Protein, Laureth-7, Tetrasodium Edta, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Sanguisorba Officinalis Root Extract, Geraniol, Xanthan Gum, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Linalool, Fagus Sylvatica Extract, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Citronellol, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Limonene, Ethylparaben, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Propylparaben, Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract, Bht, Plankton Extract, Mica, Iron Oxides
Strengths: Lavish packaging (if that appeals to you); a good mascara; some excellent lipsticks.
Weaknesses: Very expensive; over-reliance on jar packaging; pervasive fragrance; overall mediocre to just plain bad skincare.
Guerlain's Paris pedigree, having evolved from a centuries-old fragrance house to a "lifestyle" line that prides itself on luxurious indulgences that promise to beautify (and perfume) almost every inch of you, still manages to hook plenty of unsuspecting women. Yet behind all of the enticing names and extraordinary claims lie some of the most unremarkable, overpriced skin-care products available. It may sound luxurious to find that gold is included in some of their formulations, unless you happen to know that when it's applied topically, gold is simply a potent allergen; there is no research showing it to have any effect on wrinkles or aging.
Guerlain's skin-care products contain a preponderance of ordinary cosmetic ingredients, with only a smattering of antioxidants, skin-identical ingredients, and anti-irritants, and most of these elegant ingredients are hindered by jar packaging. It's one thing to spend more than you need to on a skin-care routine, but at least if you decide to do so you should shop the overpriced lines that will reward you with far better formulations than what Guerlain offers. Guerlain is the very definition of style usurping substance. For example, there are dozens and dozens of moisturizers in this line that are at best described as mediocre and out of date, while the sunscreens have issues of their own, including low SPF ratings and potentially insufficient UVA protection due to smaller-than-usual amounts of avobenzone. And despite the specialty claims they make for each product grouping, repetitive formulations are the hallmark of the Guerlain line—too bad not a single moisturizer or serum formula comes close to beating the competition; more often than not they fail miserably.
Guerlain has been under the ownership of Sephora parent company Louis Vuitton-Moet-Hennessy since 1994, and is available in many Sephora boutiques.
For more information about Guerlain, visit www.guerlain.com.