No. 50 Serum Collagen Veil Anti-Aging Primer

Price:
$48 - 1 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Serums > Serums
Last Updated:
4/19/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
No

This silky, silicone-based serum claims to contain more than 50 anti-aging ingredients, but is that better? In most instances—no! Although using several anti-aging ingredients is always better than focusing on just one (for example, a vitamin C serum whose only anti-aging ingredient is vitamin C), in this case you're getting only a teeny-tiny amount of lots of anti-aging ingredients, so the effect of each is minimal at best. It looks good on the label, but this everything-but-the-kitchen-sink approach to formulating a serum just isn't as impressive as it seems.

The presence of so many silicones lends this serum a silky-smooth texture that will enhance makeup application, but that's true of any silicone-enriched product. Beyond the silicones and a tiny amount of petrolatum (Vaseline), this contains more preservative and salt (sodium chloride) than it does the anti-aging ingredients mentioned in the claims. Looking over the roster of the anti-aging ingredients included, many of them are indeed great for skin. However, some are also questionable, or have no research proving their worth, while others, like grapefruit oil, pose a risk of irritation, but again there isn't much in here so don't worry. Others, such as snail secretion filtrate, are just odd; perhaps the association is that because snails move slowly they can slow down aging—I mean, really! Who comes up with this stuff? And why do we even begin to believe it?

Also in the copious claims, this product is supposed to promote oxygenation delivery. It does this via two ingredients—perflurodecalin and perfluorohexane. While there is a study showing that these ingredients improve skin's ability to hold moisture, it also says that the results are not conclusive, and it is only one study (International Journal of Cosmetic Science, June 1996). On the other hand, there also are studies showing perflurodecalin can cause free-radical damage and inhibit blood flow. One things is definite, there are no studies showing it can repair wrinkles or prevent them from occurring.

All told, this serum is a mixed bag: Although it does provide some good ingredients, it doesn't provide enough of them, and it also exposes your skin to some troublesome ingredients. This product is not preferred to any serum on our list of Best Sensitive Serums.

Pros:
  • Silky-smooth texture enhances makeup application.
  • Contains some proven anti-aging ingredients.
Cons:
  • Despite containing lots of different anti-aging ingredients, each is present in only a teeny-tiny amount, so skin is less likely to benefit.
  • Contains known irritant grapefruit oil, plus fragrant hibiscus and peppermint.
  • Contains more preservative and salt than anti-aging ingredients.

A true beauty breakthrough, No. 50 Serum Anti-Aging Collagen Veil Primer is a multi-tasking, concentrated hydrating primer and serum in one, infused in with more than 50 beneficial ingredients, including hydrating anti-aging peptides, collagen, niacin, essential lipid-rich oils, vitamins, extracts and botanicals to nurture your skin and lock in moisture as it prepares it for flawless makeup application.

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Dimethicone, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Isododecane, Glycerin, Hexyl Laurate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Ozokerite, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Petrolatum, Sodium Chloride, Caprylyl Methicone, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polysilicone-11, Titanium Dioxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sorbitan Olivate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Propylene Glycol, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Ubiquinone, Squalane, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Sea Water, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Niacinamide, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Caffeine, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Arbutin, Adenosine, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water, Lactobacillus/Honeysuckle Flower/Licorice Root/Morus Alba Root/Pueraria Lobata Root/Schizandra Chinensis Fruit/Scutellaria Baicalensis Root/Sophora Japonica Flower Extract Ferment Filtrate, Illite, Mica, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Perfluorohexane, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Caviar Extract, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Cholesteryl Isostearate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthemum Indicum Flower Extract, Cholesteryl Nonanoate, Cholesteryl Chloride, Alcohol, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, Ananas sativus (pineapple) fruit Extract, Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Perfluorodecalin, Morus Alba Fruit Extract, Magnolia Kobus Bark Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sprout Extract, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Pentafluoropropane, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Steareth-20, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Gentiana Lutea Root Extract, Artemisia Absinthium Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Veronica Officinalis Extract, Primula Veris Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Colloidal Oatmeal, Hydrolyzed Silk, Citric Acid, Potassium sorbate, Silica, Fish Extract, BHT, Sodium Benzoate, Algae Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Mussel Extract, Tocopherol, Thiamine HCl, Riboflavin, Retinyl Palmitate, Pantothenic Acid, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Niacin, Folic Acid, Chrysin, Carnitine HCl, Biotin, Ascorbic Acid, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7,Chlorhexidine digluconate. May Contain: Red 7 Lake (CI 15850:1)

IT Cosmetics (the IT stands for “Innovative Technology”) is the creation of Jamie Kern Lima, a former Miss USA pageant contestant and TV news anchor. Lima founded IT Cosmetics in 2008, selling her products in boutique stores and on QVC, then expanding into Canada in 2009. Since then, the line has gotten a lot of exposure with featured reports and stories on network television, including prominent mentions on the ABC reality show Dancing With the Stars.

Other than this abundant television exposure, the main draw of IT Cosmetics is its claim that the company works with leading plastic surgeons from Brazil to create products containing the very latest anti-aging technologies. That sounds intriguing, but is a bit silly when you consider that most plastic surgeons don’t know anything about skin care or cosmetic ingredient research. Consulting a cosmetic surgeon about anti-aging formularies is like consulting a taxi driver about how to fly an airplane! You’d think Lima and her team would instead want to consult a dermatologist, but even that’s not a slam-dunk for ensuring your anti-aging products are a cut above the rest, given that dermatologists also are not trained in skin-care formulations.

The labels on most IT Cosmetics products reveal a variety of age-defying claims centered around ingredients like antioxidants, peptides, vitamins, and collagen. Those are indeed great ingredients, but because many of IT Cosmetics’ products are packaged in containers that expose these delicate ingredients to light and air, any benefit is reduced as soon as you open the jar or compact (something the plastic surgeons from Brazil obviously didn’t know).

There are also some distinct weaknesses in the line, including an average yet pricey eyebrow pencil, powder illuminator, and eyeshadow whose performances don’t justify the expense (especially not when you factor in the high shipping fees QVC charges).

Of course, IT Cosmetics also has some products that are worth checking out. The line boasts an excellent powder blush, mascara, creme illuminator, hydrating cream lipstick, and many other products—including a full-coverage concealer that is truly full coverage—that are very good. However, while these products are good, they are not so unique that similar products can’t be found elsewhere for less money. As with any line that has a mix of good, so-so, and bad products, shopping using our reviews to guide you is a great way to ensure you’ll at least get your money’s worth, and your skin will be the better for it.

For more information on IT Cosmetics, visit www.itcosmetics.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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