03.25.2013
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Alpha Lipoic, Vitamin C Ester, DMAE Day Cream
Rating
1 fl. oz. for $34.95
Category:Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:03.25.2013
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:No
Review Overview
This moisturizer contains some intriguing ingredients for those concerned with fighting the signs of aging. Among them are antioxidants such as alpha lipoic acid, olive oil, and vitamin C. However, labeling this a day cream is misleading because your daytime moisturizer should provide sun protection. You can use as much as you want of a cadre of anti-aging products, but if a well-formulated sunscreen rated SPF 15 or greater isn’t part of your daily routine, it’s all for naught.

Despite the fact that this moisturizer has a rather elegant formulation that’s best for normal to dry skin, we are concerned about the amount of DMAE. Also known as dimethylaminoethanol, this ingredient is controversial because it offers short-term benefits for skin followed by a sequence of decreased cell growth; in some cases, cell growth stops altogether, which isn’t good. There is no proof that DMAE is an “unbeatable” anti-aging ingredient. More research on the topical use of DMAE is needed before any cosmetics company can honestly make that boast (Sources: Pharmazie, December 2009, pages 818–822; Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, November–December 2007, pages 711–718; and The British Journal of Dermatology, March 2007, pages 433–439). The amount of the controversial ingredient DMAE is what keeps this moisturizer from earning a higher rating.
Claims
The combination of Alpha Lipoic Acid, Vitamin C Ester and DMAE is proven as an unbeatable anti-aging skin care treatment. Using this trio of ingredients benefits the skin by fighting and repairing free-radical damage as well as by firming and tightening. Our unique Alpha Lipoic Acid Day Cream blends these three ingredients at the highest potencies available without a prescription. This combination, along with the moisturizing benefits of Shea Butter, makes our Day Cream a “triple-threat” of skin care: a light formula that repairs, protects, and moisturizes.
Ingredients
Demineralized Spring Water, Glycerine, Olive Oil, Alpha Lipoic Acid, DMAE Bitartrate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth--20, Soybean Oil, Shea Butter, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Allantoin, Aloe Vera Gel, Vitamin E Acetate, Tea Carbomer 940, Citric Acid, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Polydimethylsiloxane
Brand Overview

Janson-Beckett Cosmeceuticals At-A-Glance

Strengths: Janson-Beckett provides complete ingredient lists on their Web site.

Weaknesses: Expensive; repetitive formulas with different claims; cleanser and toner contain potent irritants; irritating lip plumper and anti-cellulite product; the sole sunscreen option does not list active ingredients; many products contain the controversial ingredient DMAE; few options for normal to oily skin; no options for those struggling with wrinkles and acne; the company doesn't consistently follow FDA regulations for ingredient disclosure (listing trade names instead of the actual ingredients, an all-too-common occurrence).

As you may have guessed from this brand's name, their claim to fame is the intriguing yet murky category of products called cosmeceuticals. Neither the FDA nor any other cosmetic regulatory board in the world recognize "cosmeceuticals" as having any special status. It is purely a marketing term used by many skin-care companies, especially companies whose products are sold or endorsed by dermatologists (as Janson-Beckett is), to give the impression that their products have more effective or more biologically active ingredients than ordinary cosmetics. Nothing could be further from the truth.

Despite the medical slant, anyone can, and many do, slap this cosmeceutical label on their products to promote them as being more "medical." Even the FDA says cosmeceuticals don't exist, and considers these products merely cosmetics with clever marketing language attached (Source: www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandIngredientSafety/ProductInformation/ucm127064.htm).

Although you can ignore Janson-Beckett's cosmeceutical angle, you may still be wondering if they offer the cutting-edge anti-aging products they boast about. The answer is that this line offers more cutting-edge hokey claims than they do cutting-edge products. These products are sold with some of the most outlandish claims you're likely to encounter and, true to form, almost none of the claims are supported by published, peer-reviewed research.

Janson-Beckett's main claim to fame (all self-promoted) is that they were an "early entrant" into the topical-alternative-to-Botox market. They emphasize peptide acetyl hexapeptide-3, otherwise known as argireline, which is the most commonly used peptide in many of the sham skin-care products claiming to work like Botox. The issue is that if acetyl hexapeptide-3 really worked to relax facial muscles, it would work all over the face (assuming you're using the products as directed). If all the muscles in your face were relaxed, you'd have sagging, not youthful, skin, not to mention that it also would affect your hand (you apply it with your fingers), which would prevent you from picking up a cup or holding the steering wheel of your car.

Despite all the fears about Botox espoused by companies featuring this peptide in their "works-like-Botox" products, there is considerably more efficacy, usage, and safety documentation available for Botox.

Moreover, there is a clinical study showing that acetyl hexapeptid-3 does not work in any manner like Botox in reducing wrinkles (Sources: www.cremedevie.com/clinical_details.htm; and International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2002). It is also interesting to note that even Botox when applied topically on skin has no impact on the skin or muscles in any way, shape, or form! (Source: Cosmetic Dermatology, July 2005, pages 521–524). In fact, there is no research showing that it works at all when applied topically.

Even more shocking is that Janson-Beckett doesn't offer a single reliable option for sun protection. We can't imagine that the people behind this brand are oblivious to the pernicious aging influence that years of unprotected sun exposure has on our skin, but they seemingly couldn't be bothered to offer SPF-rated products with active ingredients capable of protecting skin from the ultraviolet damage that leads to wrinkles, discolorations, and sagging, among other undesirable results. They'll go on for pages about the "clinically proven" anti-aging ingredients in their products, but really, how seriously can an informed consumer take this brand when they can't even get the issue of sun protection right? Add to that the disingenuous UV protection claims they make for some of their products, and the ethics of Janson-Beckett become even more suspect. All told, considering this line's problems and high price point, we cannot come up with a legitimate reason to recommend any of their products over countless others.

For more information about Janson-Beckett Cosmeceuticals, call (888) 476-3600 or visit www.janson-beckett.com.

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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