Alpha Lipoic, Vitamin C Ester, DMAE Night Cream

Price:
$79.95 - 4 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
3/25/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
No
This emollient moisturizer is a slightly more emollient version of Janson-Beckett’s Alpha Lipoic, Vitamin C Ester, DMAE Day Cream. For some reason, this one costs more off the shelf, but you get four times as much product, making it the better value. However, due to the controversial ingredient DMAE (discussed below) this may not be the anti-aging value you’re seeking. On the plus side, this moisturizer for dry skin contains some intriguing ingredients that can help fight the signs of aging. Among them are antioxidants such as alpha lipoic acid, olive oil, and vitamin C, and it’s packaged so these light- and air-sensitive ingredients remain stable during use. Despite my enthusiasm for this antioxidant moisturizer, we are concerned about the amount of DMAE. Also known as dimethylaminoethanol, this ingredient is controversial because research has shown it offers short-term benefits for skin followed by a sequence of decreased cell growth; in some cases, cell growth stops altogether, which isn’t good. There is no proof that DMAE is an “unbeatable” anti-aging ingredient. More research on the topical use of DMAE is needed before any cosmetics company can honestly make that boast (Sources: Pharmazie, December 2009, pages 818–822; Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, November–December 2007, pages 711–718; and The British Journal of Dermatology, March 2007, pages 433–439). The amount of the controversial ingredient DMAE is what keeps this moisturizer from earning a higher rating. By the way, there is nothing about this product that makes it work better at night—that’s just a marketing spin. The only difference between a daytime and nighttime skin-care product is that the daytime product must contain sunscreen, but Jason-Beckett doesn’t sell one of those, so you’re stuck (well, at least if you wanted to shop from this line for all of your anti-aging needs).
The combination of Alpha Lipoic Acid, Vitamin C Ester and DMAE has been proven as an unbeatable anti-aging skin care treatment. Our formula has been blended to include the highest, safest potencies available without a prescription and is unrivaled in effectiveness. In addition, we have added Green Tea Extract, Soy Protein, and various skin soothing moisturizers. The result, a formula that provides you with maximum regenerative benefits while you sleep. Enhancing our Night Cream is our special Soy Liposome delivery system. This maximizes penetration and controls the absorption of our time-released ingredients throughout the night, optimizing results.
Demineralized Spring Water, Olive Oil, Glycerine, Alpha Lipoic Acid, DMAE Bitartrate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Mineral Oil, Vitamin E Acetate, Glyceryl Stearate, Allantoin, Aloe Vera Gel, Cetearyl Alcohol, Green Tea Extract, Ceteareth--20, Carbomer, Cetyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, TEA Stearate, Simethicone, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Microcrystalline Cellulose

As you may have guessed from this brand's name, their claim to fame is the intriguing yet murky category of products called cosmeceuticals. Neither the FDA nor any other cosmetic regulatory board in the world recognize "cosmeceuticals" as having any special status. It is purely a marketing term used by many skin-care companies, especially companies whose products are sold or endorsed by dermatologists (as Janson-Beckett is), to give the impression that their products have more effective or more biologically active ingredients than ordinary cosmetics. Nothing could be further from the truth.

Despite the medical slant, anyone can, and many do, slap this cosmeceutical label on their products to promote them as being more "medical." Even the FDA says cosmeceuticals don't exist, and considers these products merely cosmetics with clever marketing language attached (Source: www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandIngredientSafety/ProductInformation/ucm127064.htm).

Although you can ignore Janson-Beckett's cosmeceutical angle, you may still be wondering if they offer the cutting-edge anti-aging products they boast about. The answer is that this line offers more cutting-edge hokey claims than they do cutting-edge products. These products are sold with some of the most outlandish claims you're likely to encounter and, true to form, almost none of the claims are supported by published, peer-reviewed research.

Janson-Beckett's main claim to fame (all self-promoted) is that they were an "early entrant" into the topical-alternative-to-Botox market. They emphasize peptide acetyl hexapeptide-3, otherwise known as argireline, which is the most commonly used peptide in many of the sham skin-care products claiming to work like Botox. The issue is that if acetyl hexapeptide-3 really worked to relax facial muscles, it would work all over the face (assuming you're using the products as directed). If all the muscles in your face were relaxed, you'd have sagging, not youthful, skin, not to mention that it also would affect your hand (you apply it with your fingers), which would prevent you from picking up a cup or holding the steering wheel of your car.

Despite all the fears about Botox espoused by companies featuring this peptide in their "works-like-Botox" products, there is considerably more efficacy, usage, and safety documentation available for Botox.

Moreover, there is a clinical study showing that acetyl hexapeptid-3 does not work in any manner like Botox in reducing wrinkles (Sources: www.cremedevie.com/clinical_details.htm; and International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2002). It is also interesting to note that even Botox when applied topically on skin has no impact on the skin or muscles in any way, shape, or form! (Source: Cosmetic Dermatology, July 2005, pages 521–524). In fact, there is no research showing that it works at all when applied topically.

Even more shocking is that Janson-Beckett doesn't offer a single reliable option for sun protection. We can't imagine that the people behind this brand are oblivious to the pernicious aging influence that years of unprotected sun exposure has on our skin, but they seemingly couldn't be bothered to offer SPF-rated products with active ingredients capable of protecting skin from the ultraviolet damage that leads to wrinkles, discolorations, and sagging, among other undesirable results. They'll go on for pages about the "clinically proven" anti-aging ingredients in their products, but really, how seriously can an informed consumer take this brand when they can't even get the issue of sun protection right? Add to that the disingenuous UV protection claims they make for some of their products, and the ethics of Janson-Beckett become even more suspect. All told, considering this line's problems and high price point, we cannot come up with a legitimate reason to recommend any of their products over countless others.

For more information about Janson-Beckett Cosmeceuticals, call (888) 476-3600 or visit www.janson-beckett.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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