DermaExcel 7 Spot Wrinkle Treatment

Price:
$129.95 - 1 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Serums > Serums
Last Updated:
3/25/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
No

The claims for this “spot wrinkle treatment” make it sound like you can zero in on your most resistant wrinkles and zap them away. The company sells this product as the one to use if their overhyped Alpha-Derma CE fails to produce satisfactory results (so much for that product’s allegedly miraculous results).

Although this emollient treatment contains a high amount of peptides, none of them have been proven to make a profound difference in the appearance of deep wrinkles. This isn’t a “multi-faceted approach” to anti-aging; it’s just one more serum claiming to turn back the clock on wrinkles.

The only information about the peptides in this product comes from the cosmetic ingredient manufacturers that sell these peptides to cosmetics companies (Sources: www.helixbiomedix.com/cosmeceuticals.html; and www.lipotec.com/ficha.php?producto=11). Some of the peptides are the “work-like-Botox” variety, but based on how they are said to prevent muscle contractions that lead to expression lines (including deep wrinkles, such as those that form on the forehead), they would affect muscles anywhere they’re applied. Therefore, if you slather this all over your face, within a short time you wouldn’t be able to smile, frown, chew food, or even blink your eyes. That’s not such an enticing trade-off for the promise of a wrinkle-free visage, is it? Of course, because these works-like-Botox peptides don’t work like Botox, there’s no cause for concern. You’re left with a very expensive antioxidant-enriched serum that’s an OK option for normal to dry skin. This contains a tiny amount of the controversial ingredient DMAE, but likely too little for it to be cause for concern.

DermaExcel 7’s formula is an evolutionary step in spot wrinkle prevention and repair targeted at eliminating the final deep wrinkles that resist AlphaDerma CE. By combining three cutting-edge peptides, along with Alpha Lipoic Acid, a powerful antioxidant, DMAE, a skin firmer, and Shea Butter, a superior skin moisturizer, Janson Beckett continues a multi-faceted approach to anti-wrinkle and anti-aging skin care.

Demineralized Spring Water, Olive Oil, Argireline (Ah3 Acetyl Hexapeptide), Snap 7 Heptapeptide, Glycerine, Pentapeptides - 3, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth 20, Shea Butter, Soybean Oil, Alpha Lipoic Acid, Milk Thistle Extract, DMAE Bitartrate, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Citric Acid, Carbomer 940, Simethicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Triethanolamine

As you may have guessed from this brand's name, their claim to fame is the intriguing yet murky category of products called cosmeceuticals. Neither the FDA nor any other cosmetic regulatory board in the world recognize "cosmeceuticals" as having any special status. It is purely a marketing term used by many skin-care companies, especially companies whose products are sold or endorsed by dermatologists (as Janson-Beckett is), to give the impression that their products have more effective or more biologically active ingredients than ordinary cosmetics. Nothing could be further from the truth.

Despite the medical slant, anyone can, and many do, slap this cosmeceutical label on their products to promote them as being more "medical." Even the FDA says cosmeceuticals don't exist, and considers these products merely cosmetics with clever marketing language attached (Source: www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandIngredientSafety/ProductInformation/ucm127064.htm).

Although you can ignore Janson-Beckett's cosmeceutical angle, you may still be wondering if they offer the cutting-edge anti-aging products they boast about. The answer is that this line offers more cutting-edge hokey claims than they do cutting-edge products. These products are sold with some of the most outlandish claims you're likely to encounter and, true to form, almost none of the claims are supported by published, peer-reviewed research.

Janson-Beckett's main claim to fame (all self-promoted) is that they were an "early entrant" into the topical-alternative-to-Botox market. They emphasize peptide acetyl hexapeptide-3, otherwise known as argireline, which is the most commonly used peptide in many of the sham skin-care products claiming to work like Botox. The issue is that if acetyl hexapeptide-3 really worked to relax facial muscles, it would work all over the face (assuming you're using the products as directed). If all the muscles in your face were relaxed, you'd have sagging, not youthful, skin, not to mention that it also would affect your hand (you apply it with your fingers), which would prevent you from picking up a cup or holding the steering wheel of your car.

Despite all the fears about Botox espoused by companies featuring this peptide in their "works-like-Botox" products, there is considerably more efficacy, usage, and safety documentation available for Botox.

Moreover, there is a clinical study showing that acetyl hexapeptid-3 does not work in any manner like Botox in reducing wrinkles (Sources: www.cremedevie.com/clinical_details.htm; and International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2002). It is also interesting to note that even Botox when applied topically on skin has no impact on the skin or muscles in any way, shape, or form! (Source: Cosmetic Dermatology, July 2005, pages 521–524). In fact, there is no research showing that it works at all when applied topically.

Even more shocking is that Janson-Beckett doesn't offer a single reliable option for sun protection. We can't imagine that the people behind this brand are oblivious to the pernicious aging influence that years of unprotected sun exposure has on our skin, but they seemingly couldn't be bothered to offer SPF-rated products with active ingredients capable of protecting skin from the ultraviolet damage that leads to wrinkles, discolorations, and sagging, among other undesirable results. They'll go on for pages about the "clinically proven" anti-aging ingredients in their products, but really, how seriously can an informed consumer take this brand when they can't even get the issue of sun protection right? Add to that the disingenuous UV protection claims they make for some of their products, and the ethics of Janson-Beckett become even more suspect. All told, considering this line's problems and high price point, we cannot come up with a legitimate reason to recommend any of their products over countless others.

For more information about Janson-Beckett Cosmeceuticals, call (888) 476-3600 or visit www.janson-beckett.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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