03.22.2013
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DermaPlex EP Gentle Exfoliating Peel
Rating
2 fl. oz. for $39.95
Category:Skin Care > Scrubs
Last Updated:03.22.2013
Jar Packaging:Yes
Tested on animals:No
Review Overview

The name, price, and claims for this product may make you think it’s an extraordinary way to attain smoother skin, but the formula couldn’t be more outdated and antiquated. Most of the ingredients could be mixed up at home for mere pennies. Corn meal is the main scrub agent, and it is gentle only because it’s buffered by non-fragrant plant oils. The peptide this contains cannot “initiate the anti-wrinkle process.” Peptides may have value for skin, but much of their antiwrinkle benefit is theoretical—and definitely doesn’t add up to much in a product like this that you rinse from the skin anyway. This overpriced scrub would have been an OK option for dry skin, but the inclusion of black pepper and thyme are a huge no-no for skin. One more comment: This scrub is sold as being guaranteed not to irritate or over-exfoliate skin, but the formula doesn’t support that claim, not to mention that any scrub can be overdone if the user applies it too often or is too zealous while scrubbing. Oh, and the jar packaging makes this an incredibly unsanitary skin-care product. For additional details on plastic microbeads in cosmetics, see the More Info section below.

More Info:

Plastic Microbeads in Cosmetics: This product contains polyethylene beads, which is an ingredient that has come under controversy in the recent past. In December of 2013, research published in the peer-reviewed journal, Marine Pollution Bulletin demonstrated that although polyurethane beads are non-toxic to humans, they are not filtered during sewage treatment and are accumulating in waterways. This means the beads have the potential to negatively affect marine wildlife who mistakenly consume them (Marine Pollution Bulletin, 2013).

Additional research published in December of 2013 demonstrated that polyurethane beads have the potential to absorb pollutants while in waterways. This research was conducted to establish the potential of absorption, however, and was not conducted using samples from actual waterways (Cell, 2013).

Beautypedia does not take an ideological stance in reviewing skincare products; rather, our reviews are based upon each product's potential harm or benefit to skin contingent upon what independent peer-reviewed scientific research has demonstrated. On issues like polyethylene beads in cosmetics or animal testing, we present the facts without judgment so that you may make your own decision whether or not this product is right for you.

Claims

Our gentle exfoliant absorbs and removes skin cells that dull and congest your skin allowing fresh cells to surface, clearing your complexion, restoring brilliance, and preparing skin for follow-up treatments. DermaPlex EP’s soothing formula also treats your newly revealed skin with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3 to initiate the anti-wrinkle process. With each 30 to 60 second application your skin is left smoother and revitalized. DermaPlex EP is a non-irritating exfoliation treatment that’s gentle enough to be used frequently, even every day! Unlike other exfoliants, DermaPlex EP is guaranteed not to irritate, dry out, or over exfoliate the skin. Even the most sensitive of skin can use this treatment without any worries.

Ingredients

Demineralized Spring Water, Corn Meal, Olive Oil, Glycerine, Soybean Oil, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3, Unprocessed Bran Flakes, Ground Black Pepper, Ground Thyme, Polyethylene Granules, Carbomer 940, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Dimethylpolysiloxade, Tea Lauryl Sulfate, Triethanolamine, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Imidazolidinyl Urea

Brand Overview

Janson-Beckett Cosmeceuticals At-A-Glance

Strengths: Janson-Beckett provides complete ingredient lists on their Web site.

Weaknesses: Expensive; repetitive formulas with different claims; cleanser and toner contain potent irritants; irritating lip plumper and anti-cellulite product; the sole sunscreen option does not list active ingredients; many products contain the controversial ingredient DMAE; few options for normal to oily skin; no options for those struggling with wrinkles and acne; the company doesn't consistently follow FDA regulations for ingredient disclosure (listing trade names instead of the actual ingredients, an all-too-common occurrence).

As you may have guessed from this brand's name, their claim to fame is the intriguing yet murky category of products called cosmeceuticals. Neither the FDA nor any other cosmetic regulatory board in the world recognize "cosmeceuticals" as having any special status. It is purely a marketing term used by many skin-care companies, especially companies whose products are sold or endorsed by dermatologists (as Janson-Beckett is), to give the impression that their products have more effective or more biologically active ingredients than ordinary cosmetics. Nothing could be further from the truth.

Despite the medical slant, anyone can, and many do, slap this cosmeceutical label on their products to promote them as being more "medical." Even the FDA says cosmeceuticals don't exist, and considers these products merely cosmetics with clever marketing language attached (Source: www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandIngredientSafety/ProductInformation/ucm127064.htm).

Although you can ignore Janson-Beckett's cosmeceutical angle, you may still be wondering if they offer the cutting-edge anti-aging products they boast about. The answer is that this line offers more cutting-edge hokey claims than they do cutting-edge products. These products are sold with some of the most outlandish claims you're likely to encounter and, true to form, almost none of the claims are supported by published, peer-reviewed research.

Janson-Beckett's main claim to fame (all self-promoted) is that they were an "early entrant" into the topical-alternative-to-Botox market. They emphasize peptide acetyl hexapeptide-3, otherwise known as argireline, which is the most commonly used peptide in many of the sham skin-care products claiming to work like Botox. The issue is that if acetyl hexapeptide-3 really worked to relax facial muscles, it would work all over the face (assuming you're using the products as directed). If all the muscles in your face were relaxed, you'd have sagging, not youthful, skin, not to mention that it also would affect your hand (you apply it with your fingers), which would prevent you from picking up a cup or holding the steering wheel of your car.

Despite all the fears about Botox espoused by companies featuring this peptide in their "works-like-Botox" products, there is considerably more efficacy, usage, and safety documentation available for Botox.

Moreover, there is a clinical study showing that acetyl hexapeptid-3 does not work in any manner like Botox in reducing wrinkles (Sources: www.cremedevie.com/clinical_details.htm; and International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2002). It is also interesting to note that even Botox when applied topically on skin has no impact on the skin or muscles in any way, shape, or form! (Source: Cosmetic Dermatology, July 2005, pages 521–524). In fact, there is no research showing that it works at all when applied topically.

Even more shocking is that Janson-Beckett doesn't offer a single reliable option for sun protection. We can't imagine that the people behind this brand are oblivious to the pernicious aging influence that years of unprotected sun exposure has on our skin, but they seemingly couldn't be bothered to offer SPF-rated products with active ingredients capable of protecting skin from the ultraviolet damage that leads to wrinkles, discolorations, and sagging, among other undesirable results. They'll go on for pages about the "clinically proven" anti-aging ingredients in their products, but really, how seriously can an informed consumer take this brand when they can't even get the issue of sun protection right? Add to that the disingenuous UV protection claims they make for some of their products, and the ethics of Janson-Beckett become even more suspect. All told, considering this line's problems and high price point, we cannot come up with a legitimate reason to recommend any of their products over countless others.

For more information about Janson-Beckett Cosmeceuticals, call (888) 476-3600 or visit www.janson-beckett.com.

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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