Green Apple Age Defy Hand Cream

by Juice Beauty  Green Apple
Price:
$12 - 2 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Retinol Products > Hand Creams/Lotions
Last Updated:
10/21/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
No

Green Apple Age Defy Hand Cream's core ingredients are three juices (apple, grape, and lemon) that, while antioxidants, also contain irritating components that make this product a problem for all skin types. This also contains other fragrant oils known to be irritating, which is a hallmark of Juice Beauty. The thinking seems to be if it's natural, it's automatically wonderful for skin. It's not true; there are good and bad natural ingredients just as there are good and bad synthetic ingredients.

This product comes fairly close to being all-natural, but why couldn't Juice Beauty have formulated a natural hand cream without the problematic natural ingredients? They used lots of good ones, including shea butter, borage oil, and jojoba oil (each wonderful for dry skin) so why sully those good-for-skin ingredients with irritating juices (ever get lemon juice in a paper cut? Ouch!) and fragrant oils?

The "organic fruit acids" referred to in the claims are malic acid from apples, tartaric acid from grapes, and citric acid from lemons. All of these could be considered natural AHAs, but each has irritant potential and this product's pH isn't in the range they'd need to exfoliate skin.

Pros:
  • Contains some wonderful emollient ingredients and plant oils for dry skin.
  • Leaves hands smooth, soft, and protected against moisture loss.
Cons:
  • The main juice ingredients pose a risk of irritation.
  • Contains fragrant oils which pose further risk of irritation.
  • The organic fruit acids cannot function like AHAs in this hand cream, so they won't help lighten brown spots on hands.
More Info:

Irritation, whether you see it on the surface of your skin or not, causes inflammation and as a result impairs healing, damages collagen, and depletes the vital substances your skin needs to stay young. For these reasons, it is best to eliminate, or minimize as much as possible, your exposure to known skin irritants, especially when there are brilliant formulas available that do not include these types of problematic ingredients (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).

Reduce fine lines and wrinkles with this rich moisturizer packed with soothing aloe, jojoba and shea butters. Powerful age-defying Vitamin C will minimize fine lines while organic fruit acids diminish hyperpigmentation and peptides firm.

Organic Juices Of Aloe Barbadensis (Organic Aloe Juice), Pyrus Malus (Organic Apple Juice), Vitis Vinifera (Organic White Grape Juice), Citrus Medica Limonum (Organic Lemon Juice), Vegetable Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Organic Sunflower Seed Oil), Octyl Palmitate, Capric/ Caprylic Triglycerides, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Cetearyl Alcohol, Organic Plant Oils Of Butyrospermum Parkii (Organic Shea Butter), Simmondsia Chinensis (Organic Jojoba Seed Oil), Oenothera Biennis (Organic Evening Primrose Oil), Linum Usitatissimum (Organic Linseed Oil), Borago Officinalis (Organic Borage Seed Oil), Xanthan Gum, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Allantoin, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citrus Reticulata (Mandarin), Litsea Cubeba (May Chang) And Cinnamomum Camphora (Ho Wood) Pure Essential Oils.

As you may have gathered from this line's name, fruit and vegetable juices are their point of difference. Before we discuss why that's not necessarily a good thing for your skin, we want to provide a little background information on the company.

The women behind this California-based brand have years of experience dealing with cosmetic formulations and various wellness-oriented companies. As the story goes, they felt the cosmetic marketplace was missing a line of products that contained organic ingredients, at least inasmuch as it was possible to create skin-care items that capitalize on the enduring trend for all things natural. Unlike other brands touting the organic label, Juice Beauty decided not to use organic ingredients diluted by water (which, by their reasoning would lower the total actual organic content even though water itself can be considered organic), but instead devised an organic juice blend. This blend (which includes various fruit and vegetable juices) serves as the base for every product they sell. Although it may seem intriguing that they're using juice instead of water, it's important to point out that any fruit or vegetable juice contains a preponderance of...water. For example, juice from fresh oranges, organic or not, can contain up to 85% water, while grape juice is typically 80% water. So much for juice being the solution to diluted ingredients; it's already diluted, naturally!

However, what's even more critical for you to know is that some of the juices Juice Beauty chose can be far too irritating to apply to your skin on a daily basis. The biggest offenders along this line are lemon and orange juices, both of which are extremely acidic and, as such capable of causing irritation. Plus, applying lemon juice to your skin can cause a phototoxic reaction when skin is exposed to sunlight (Sources: Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, and Photomedicine, December 2005, pages 318–321; and www.naturaldatabase.com).

One of the naturally occurring chemicals in lemon juice is the fragrance chemical limonene. Pharmaceutical research has shown that limonene applied to skin enhances penetration of other ingredients, which is not good news if you're using a product that contains not only lemon juice but also other irritants as well (Sources: Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, April 2008, pages 656–661; Journal of Occupational Health, May 2006, pages 480–486; and Advances in Colloid and Interface Science, November 2006, pages 123–126 and pages 369–385). If you've ever gotten orange or lemon juice on a minor cut (even a minor cuticle nick) you know how much it stings, and that's really bad for skin! Although it's true that citrus juices do have antioxidant and even anti-inflammatory actions, the effects of their irritating compounds likely surpasses the effects from the beneficial compounds; not to mention that there are plenty of other ingredients (natural and synthetic) that have potent antioxidant properties without any potential for irritation.

In addition to the problematic natural ingredients, Juice Beauty uses raw sugarcane as a natural form of glycolic acid and willow bark as a natural stand-in for salicylic acid. Although there is an association (albeit distant) to be made for both, the fact is that neither of these natural ingredients on their own is an adequate stand-in for authentic (and, yes, synthetic) glycolic or salicylic acids. We wouldn't expect these natural substitutes to exfoliate skin and reduce blemishes any more than we would expect to be able to print a legible novel on tree bark. In fact, some of the Juice Beauty products contain actual glycolic acid rather than a natural-sounding derivative.

Several Juice Beauty products contain an impressive roster of state-of-the-art ingredients, including several antioxidants, peptides, and even some soothing, non-fragrant plant components. Ironically, removing this line's namesake ingredients (namely the juices) from their products would have made the products a much better choice!

Turning to the organic claims, we applaud the company for acknowledging the lack of regulations on the term "organic" as it applies to cosmetics. They are also refreshingly forthcoming about what the current standards stipulate, and offer all the necessary proof that the organic ingredients they've chosen are from USDA-certified organic farms. Juice Beauty simply states that they offer consumers a "meaningful percentage of organic ingredients." Based on the ingredient lists for their products, it's easy to see that juices and other natural ingredients comprise the bulk of each formula.

Consumers looking for skin-care products with organic ingredients can consider some of the options from Juice Beauty—there are a handful of effective, non-irritating products in this line. Yet, as we stated before, although organic is a strong pull for consumers, it does not always (actually, in most instances it absolutely does not) translate into better or safer cosmetics. Considering the range of ingredients Juice Beauty uses: most of them are indeed natural and certified organic—regardless of that certification, however, a natural ingredient that's irritating for skin is still a problem. Being passionate about organic products and an organic lifestyle need not involve your skin taking a turn for the worse via application of potentially damaging ingredients (particularly camphor, designated/disguised as Ho Wood in many Juice Beauty products), and camphor is a strong skin irritant (Sources: British Journal of Dermatology, November 2000, pages 923–929; and Clinical Toxicology, December 1981, pages 1485–1498).

For more information about Juice Beauty, call (415) 457-4600 or visit www.juicebeauty.com

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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