Advanced Lotion

by Kinerase  
Price:
$119 - 2.8 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
4/18/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

Advanced Lotion is a lighter version of the Advanced Cream from Kinerase, and the lotion formula is suitable for normal to slightly oily skin. Although the amount of antioxidant grape seed oil is nice, be aware you're paying a premium to find out if kinetin is the answer for your wrinkles and other aging skin issues (thus far, research hasn’t proven kinetin all that amazing). There is no reason to choose this over several more elegant formulas loaded with antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients, unless you think kinetin is the ultimate anti-aging ingredient. It’s an alternative to retinol as claimed, but, if you think about it, so is any other cosmetic ingredient! Unless your skin cannot tolerate retinol there’s no reason to avoid it or look for overhyped alternatives like kinetin.

Kinerase® Advanced Lotion helps improve the appearance of skin texture, tone and blotchiness while gently moisturizing oily to normal and sensitive skin. Now formulated with retinol alternative, HA3 that helps support skin's natural production of hyaluronic acid, fine lines and wrinkles appear diminished while clinical strength kinetin works to keep skin cells healthier, longer.

Water/Eau, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Ammonium Acryloyl Dimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Dimethicone, Kinetin, PEG-5 Soy Sterol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Ethylhexylglycerin, Panthenol, N-Acetyl-Glucosamine-6-Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citric Acid, 3-Aminopropan-1-Ol.

Valeant Pharmaceuticals owns and distributes this medically positioned line that's built around the ingredient kinetin, a plant-growth hormone whose technical name is N6-furfuryladenine. What makes kinetin interesting are the in vitro and animal studies demonstrating its effect as a growth factor. Most of these studies were conducted by Dr. Suresh I. S. Rattan, Ph.D., D.Sc., Associate Professor of Biogerontology at the University of Aarhus, Denmark, who happens to hold the patent for use of N6-furfuryladenine on aging skin.

Dr. Rattan told me in an interview, "Normal cells, as they divide and age, go through a progressive accumulation of changes that are irreversible until they reach a stage where they finally die. The in vitro form of creating cellular aging is called the Hayflick Phenomenon, named after the researcher who discovered this method of studying cellular aging in a laboratory setting." He went on to state that "a young cell is plump, round, smooth. As the cells age, they become irregular, flattened, and large, full of debris.… When you grow normal cells in the lab they have a limited number of times they multiply and divide—termed a cell's replicative life span. But when I added N6-furfuryladenine to these cultures the cells did not age as fast, the process slowed down dramatically…" On the flip side, Dr. Rattan mentioned, "We are curious about negative effects.... In cell cultures when a concentration of, say, 250 micromolars of N6-furfuryladenine was used, we got good results, but when we used 500 micromolars of N6-furfuryladenine the cells started dying." The quotes above are from my original phone interview with Dr. Rattan prior to my first reviews of products containing kinetin. He has since told me we can no longer have discussions about this ingredient, not a shock given that "loose lips often sink ships."

You may be wondering if, years later, there is any new research that finally shows kinetin to be a worthwhile ingredient to add to your "anti-aging" skin-care regimen. One published study examined the effect of applying a low dose of kinetin to the skin of hairless dogs. The applications lasted 100 days, and gradual skin texture, wrinkle, and depigmentation (skin lightening) improvement was observed in all subjects. However, the study was not done double-blind, it wasn't compared to a placebo, and dogs don't wrinkle or age the way we do. So it's really a stretch to suggest that the results on dog skin somehow translate to results on human skin (Source: Rejuvenation Research, Spring 2004, pages 32–39). Further and more recent research on kinetin hasn't proven it to be an antiwrinkle luminary or even a dim light (Source: Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences, May 2006, pages 332–342).

Using kinetin on skin remains as much of an unknown as it was when we first wrote about it. There are also conflicting results from studies trying to answer such questions as: How much kinetin is needed to have an effect? Can you use too much? How do you control the amount of skin cell differentiation? Can it exert antioxidant activity? The bottom line is that even if kinetin could be used by skin cells, there probably isn't enough kinetin in any product to have a negative or positive impact. However, that is only a guess; no one knows for sure, and so using products with kinetin remains potentially effective but still questionable. Besides, you have to ask yourself: If kinetin is such a miraculous ingredient, why aren't other companies using it in their products? Thus far, the licensing rights to kinetin haven't been setting the industry afire, and it's doubtful much more than a spark will be generated because everyone is always looking for the next buzz ingredient.

(Sources for the above: Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications, June 1994, pages 665–672, November 1999, pages 499–502, and October 2000, pages 1265–1270; Bioorganic and Medicinal Chemistry, May 2002, pages 1581–1586; and Dermatologic Clinics, October 2000, pages 609–615.)

For more information about Kinerase, call 1-800-321-4576 or visit www.kinerase.com.

Member Comments

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  1. How would you rate the results? (4 = Best)

    4 / 4 Best
  2. Was this product a good value? (4 = Best)

    3 / 4 Good
  3. Would you recommend this product? (4 = Best)

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  1. Anonymous
    Reviewed on Friday, August 15, 2014
    • Value
      3 / 4
    • Recommend
      4 / 4
    • Results
      4 / 4
    Best results Yet
    • I have the most temperamental skin.To say that it is sensitive would be an understatement. I have an autoimmune disorder (Hashimotos Thyroiditis) as well as vascular rosacea on my cheek area. I would say that my skin leans towards the drier side. I have used the Kinerase Lotion with great success. I can't tolerate any retin-A products, as well as AHA's and BHA's. Not even products containing peptides are tolerable. Fortunately Kinerase is one product that my face can tolerate.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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