Brightening Anti-Aging System (Discontinued)

by Kinerase  
Price:
$140 
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Category:
Skin Care > Retinol Products > Lighteners Without Hydroquinone
Last Updated:
9/26/2011
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

Brightening Anti-Aging System consists of Kinerase's Brightening Face Serum and Concentrated Spot Treatment. Both are designed to "enhance and brighten overall skin tone by lightening dark spots and promoting rejuvenation." The Serum is a water- and silicone-based solution that doesn't contain any notable ingredients for lightening pigment discolorations, though it does contain pearl powder, which has a cosmetic brightening effect; but that isn't skin care, that's makeup.

The amount of kinetin is impressive, but this plant growth hormone does not have any convincing research pertaining to its ability to affect discolorations on human skin. Kinerase uses two forms of the antiseptic resorcinol, most likely as a preservative because as a lightening agent it would be problematic. It is potentially irritating and doesn't make this Serum any more attractive to use.

The Spot Treatment is packaged in a pen-style applicator, and includes many of the same ingredients as the Serum. It contains a smaller amount of kinetin, but that's not such a loss. The main problem is the amount of daisy flower extract. Also known as tansy, this plant is known to cause severe contact dermatitis (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com), and so is not recommended, despite its folklore tie to lightening freckles. This kit doesn't compare to proven skin-lightening products that contain hydroquinone or arbutin. The only potentially effective ingredient of note is phenylethyl resorcinol, but research on this is limited to say the least. For the money, see your doctor for a prescription for hydroquinone, which would guarantee far better results and ongoing improvement.

A two-part complex powered by seven advanced brightening ingredients, including Kinerase's proprietary strength anti-oxidant, Kinetin. The serum instantly enhances and brightens overall skin tone by lightening dark spots and promoting rejuvenation. The concentrated spot applicator contains a higher dosage of the Brightening Complex that specifically targets uneven, aged, or sun damaged skin. This breakthrough formula contains a pearl extract with light diffusing properties to give skin an overall luminous finish. The result is a complexion that looks energized, radiant and beautiful.

Brightening Face Serum (1 ounce)

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Peg-12 Dimethicone, Peg-40 Stearate, Ceteth-20, Kinetin, Pearl Powder, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Acuminata (Cola Seed) Extract, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract, Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Wood Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Sea Salt, Sodium Hyaluronate, Soybean Glycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Unsaponifiables, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Lotus Japonicus Symbiosome Extract, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Hexylresorcinol, Bisabolol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sucrose Tristearate, Phospholipids, Hectorite, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Polysorbate 60, Polysilicone-11, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Disodium Edta, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid

Concentrated Spot Treatment (0.12 ounce)

Water, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Bellis Perennis (Daisy) Flower Extract, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Peg-12 Dimethicone, Peg-40 Stearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Kinetin, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract, Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Wood Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia (Peel) Fruit Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract, Lotus Japonicus Symbiosome Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Unsaponifiables, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Acuminata (Cola Seed) Extract, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Soybean Glycerides, Bisabolol, Phospholipids, Hexylresorcinol, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Sucrose Tristearate, Polysilicone-11, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Polyacrylate, Disodium Edta, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid

Valeant Pharmaceuticals owns and distributes this medically positioned line that's built around the ingredient kinetin, a plant-growth hormone whose technical name is N6-furfuryladenine. What makes kinetin interesting are the in vitro and animal studies demonstrating its effect as a growth factor. Most of these studies were conducted by Dr. Suresh I. S. Rattan, Ph.D., D.Sc., Associate Professor of Biogerontology at the University of Aarhus, Denmark, who happens to hold the patent for use of N6-furfuryladenine on aging skin.

Dr. Rattan told me in an interview, "Normal cells, as they divide and age, go through a progressive accumulation of changes that are irreversible until they reach a stage where they finally die. The in vitro form of creating cellular aging is called the Hayflick Phenomenon, named after the researcher who discovered this method of studying cellular aging in a laboratory setting." He went on to state that "a young cell is plump, round, smooth. As the cells age, they become irregular, flattened, and large, full of debris.… When you grow normal cells in the lab they have a limited number of times they multiply and divide—termed a cell's replicative life span. But when I added N6-furfuryladenine to these cultures the cells did not age as fast, the process slowed down dramatically…" On the flip side, Dr. Rattan mentioned, "We are curious about negative effects.... In cell cultures when a concentration of, say, 250 micromolars of N6-furfuryladenine was used, we got good results, but when we used 500 micromolars of N6-furfuryladenine the cells started dying." The quotes above are from my original phone interview with Dr. Rattan prior to my first reviews of products containing kinetin. He has since told me we can no longer have discussions about this ingredient, not a shock given that "loose lips often sink ships."

You may be wondering if, years later, there is any new research that finally shows kinetin to be a worthwhile ingredient to add to your "anti-aging" skin-care regimen. One published study examined the effect of applying a low dose of kinetin to the skin of hairless dogs. The applications lasted 100 days, and gradual skin texture, wrinkle, and depigmentation (skin lightening) improvement was observed in all subjects. However, the study was not done double-blind, it wasn't compared to a placebo, and dogs don't wrinkle or age the way we do. So it's really a stretch to suggest that the results on dog skin somehow translate to results on human skin (Source: Rejuvenation Research, Spring 2004, pages 32–39). Further and more recent research on kinetin hasn't proven it to be an antiwrinkle luminary or even a dim light (Source: Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences, May 2006, pages 332–342).

Using kinetin on skin remains as much of an unknown as it was when we first wrote about it. There are also conflicting results from studies trying to answer such questions as: How much kinetin is needed to have an effect? Can you use too much? How do you control the amount of skin cell differentiation? Can it exert antioxidant activity? The bottom line is that even if kinetin could be used by skin cells, there probably isn't enough kinetin in any product to have a negative or positive impact. However, that is only a guess; no one knows for sure, and so using products with kinetin remains potentially effective but still questionable. Besides, you have to ask yourself: If kinetin is such a miraculous ingredient, why aren't other companies using it in their products? Thus far, the licensing rights to kinetin haven't been setting the industry afire, and it's doubtful much more than a spark will be generated because everyone is always looking for the next buzz ingredient.

(Sources for the above: Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications, June 1994, pages 665–672, November 1999, pages 499–502, and October 2000, pages 1265–1270; Bioorganic and Medicinal Chemistry, May 2002, pages 1581–1586; and Dermatologic Clinics, October 2000, pages 609–615.)

For more information about Kinerase, call 1-800-321-4576 or visit www.kinerase.com.

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Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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