This daytime moisturizer contains only mineral sunscreen ingredients (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) and it can protect skin from further sun damage, just as any well-formulated sunscreen can. However, given the large amount of mineral sunscreen agents (about 20%), it has a heavy feel that won’t be welcomed by everyone, a definite short-coming of this type of SPF product.
Labeling this as akin to a PhotoFacial is nothing more than marketing hype. A real PhotoFacial (also known as Intense Pulsed Light or IPL) can help mitigate signs of sun damage such as minor discolorations and redness and can help build some amount of collagen. And, of course, sun protection is the key to maintaining those results. That’s where this needlessly expensive product comes in to play, but to think that using this or any part of Kinerase’s PhotoFacials system is the same as having the in-office IPL procedure is pure fantasy. The inactive ingredients in this product are listed in alphabetical order, which is an acceptable, albeit confounding, practice for over-the-counter drugs. There are several intriguing ingredients in the base formula (which is best for normal to dry skin not prone to blemishes), but the alphabetical listing makes it impossible to determine how much of the good stuff your skin is getting. This contains fragrance in the form of orange oil.
A moisturizer that prevents and corrects signs of incidental sun damage, while working to fade uneven skin tone, stimulate collagen production, and reduce the look of fine lines. PhotoFacials Sun Damage Reversal System Day Moisturizer with SPF 50 is step 2 of the innovative, at-home PhotoFacials Sun Damage Reversal System that replicates the benefits of an in-office photofacial procedure. What's a photofacial? It's a popular dermatologist procedure that targets hyperpigmentation, spots, fine lines, wrinkles, and skin texture.
Active: Titanium Dioxide (15.4%), Zinc Oxide (5.3%), Other: Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract, Alcohol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Alumina, Aminomethyl Propanol, Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Averrhoa Carambola Fruit Extract, Bearberry (Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi) Extract, Beta-Glucan, Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Carbomer, Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract, Citrus Sinensis (Orange) Oil, Cyclodextrin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Disodium Edta, Ethylhexylglycerin, Garcinia Mangostana Extract, Glycerin, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Hexyl Laurate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate/Triethoxycaprylylsilane Crosspolymer, Kinetin, Kojic Acid, Lactic Acid, Lecithin, Licorice (Glyyrrhiza Glabta) Extract, Litchi Chinensis Fruit Extract, Methicone, Methyl Gluceth-20, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Mulberry (Morus Bombycis) Root Extract, Palmitoyl Glycine, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Passiflora Incarnata Fruit Extract, Peg-10 Dimethicone, Peg-4, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Purified Water, Silica, Tocopherol, Vitex Agnus Castus Extract, Zizyphus Jujuba Fruit Extract
Valeant Pharmaceuticals owns and distributes this medically positioned line that's built around the ingredient kinetin, a plant-growth hormone whose technical name is N6-furfuryladenine. What makes kinetin interesting are the in vitro and animal studies demonstrating its effect as a growth factor. Most of these studies were conducted by Dr. Suresh I. S. Rattan, Ph.D., D.Sc., Associate Professor of Biogerontology at the University of Aarhus, Denmark, who happens to hold the patent for use of N6-furfuryladenine on aging skin.
Dr. Rattan told me in an interview, "Normal cells, as they divide and age, go through a progressive accumulation of changes that are irreversible until they reach a stage where they finally die. The in vitro form of creating cellular aging is called the Hayflick Phenomenon, named after the researcher who discovered this method of studying cellular aging in a laboratory setting." He went on to state that "a young cell is plump, round, smooth. As the cells age, they become irregular, flattened, and large, full of debris.… When you grow normal cells in the lab they have a limited number of times they multiply and divide—termed a cell's replicative life span. But when I added N6-furfuryladenine to these cultures the cells did not age as fast, the process slowed down dramatically…" On the flip side, Dr. Rattan mentioned, "We are curious about negative effects.... In cell cultures when a concentration of, say, 250 micromolars of N6-furfuryladenine was used, we got good results, but when we used 500 micromolars of N6-furfuryladenine the cells started dying." The quotes above are from my original phone interview with Dr. Rattan prior to my first reviews of products containing kinetin. He has since told me we can no longer have discussions about this ingredient, not a shock given that "loose lips often sink ships."
You may be wondering if, years later, there is any new research that finally shows kinetin to be a worthwhile ingredient to add to your "anti-aging" skin-care regimen. One published study examined the effect of applying a low dose of kinetin to the skin of hairless dogs. The applications lasted 100 days, and gradual skin texture, wrinkle, and depigmentation (skin lightening) improvement was observed in all subjects. However, the study was not done double-blind, it wasn't compared to a placebo, and dogs don't wrinkle or age the way we do. So it's really a stretch to suggest that the results on dog skin somehow translate to results on human skin (Source: Rejuvenation Research, Spring 2004, pages 32–39). Further and more recent research on kinetin hasn't proven it to be an antiwrinkle luminary or even a dim light (Source: Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences, May 2006, pages 332–342).
Using kinetin on skin remains as much of an unknown as it was when we first wrote about it. There are also conflicting results from studies trying to answer such questions as: How much kinetin is needed to have an effect? Can you use too much? How do you control the amount of skin cell differentiation? Can it exert antioxidant activity? The bottom line is that even if kinetin could be used by skin cells, there probably isn't enough kinetin in any product to have a negative or positive impact. However, that is only a guess; no one knows for sure, and so using products with kinetin remains potentially effective but still questionable. Besides, you have to ask yourself: If kinetin is such a miraculous ingredient, why aren't other companies using it in their products? Thus far, the licensing rights to kinetin haven't been setting the industry afire, and it's doubtful much more than a spark will be generated because everyone is always looking for the next buzz ingredient.
(Sources for the above: Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications, June 1994, pages 665–672, November 1999, pages 499–502, and October 2000, pages 1265–1270; Bioorganic and Medicinal Chemistry, May 2002, pages 1581–1586; and Dermatologic Clinics, October 2000, pages 609–615.)
For more information about Kinerase, call 1-800-321-4576 or visit www.kinerase.com.