PhotoFacials Sun Damage Reversal System Night Moisturizer (Discontinued)

by Kinerase  PhotoFacials
Price:
$88 - 1.7 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
4/17/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This moisturizer contains the ingredient undecylenoyl phenylalanine, which has limited but promising research pertaining to its skin-lightening benefit. It's an intriguing alternative to hydroquinone, especially when cmonined with niacinamide, though that's not the case, here.

This moisturizer absolutely cannot replicate the benefits of an in-office IPL procedure. That’s like thinking you can perform a convincing face-lift at home by doing a handstand and taping loose skin in place. As it turns out, this moisturizer is hardly an exciting formula and it contains several fragrant plant oils (including skin cell–damaging lavender) and unnecessary or useless plant extracts that make it a problem for all skin types, both for the health of your skin and your budget.

A nighttime moisturizer that rewinds the signs of sun damage while you sleep and is Step 3 in the exclusive PhotoFacials Sun Damage Reversal System. Kinerase PhotoFacials Sun Damage Reversal System stops, corrects, and protects from the signs of sun damage and skin discoloration in as little as 4 weeks. This innovative in-home System replicates the benefits of an in-office photofacial procedure. What's a photofacial? It's a popular dermatologist procedure that targets hyperpigmentation, spots, fine lines, wrinkles, and skin texture.

Purified Water, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Glycerin, Cyclomethicone, Distarch Phosphate, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, Butyrospermum Parkii, Bisabolol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Coco-Glucoside, Kinetin, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Panthenol, Beta-Glucan, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Averrhoa Carambola Fruit Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Fruit Extract, Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract, Garcinia Mangostana Extract, Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Litchi Chinensis Fruit Extract, Zizyphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Lavendula Hybrida Extract, Lavendula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Lavandin Extract Coconut Alcohol, Polysorbate 20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Soybean Oil, Polysilicone-11, Glyceryl Stearate, Peg-100 Stearate, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Valeant Pharmaceuticals owns and distributes this medically positioned line that's built around the ingredient kinetin, a plant-growth hormone whose technical name is N6-furfuryladenine. What makes kinetin interesting are the in vitro and animal studies demonstrating its effect as a growth factor. Most of these studies were conducted by Dr. Suresh I. S. Rattan, Ph.D., D.Sc., Associate Professor of Biogerontology at the University of Aarhus, Denmark, who happens to hold the patent for use of N6-furfuryladenine on aging skin.

Dr. Rattan told me in an interview, "Normal cells, as they divide and age, go through a progressive accumulation of changes that are irreversible until they reach a stage where they finally die. The in vitro form of creating cellular aging is called the Hayflick Phenomenon, named after the researcher who discovered this method of studying cellular aging in a laboratory setting." He went on to state that "a young cell is plump, round, smooth. As the cells age, they become irregular, flattened, and large, full of debris.… When you grow normal cells in the lab they have a limited number of times they multiply and divide—termed a cell's replicative life span. But when I added N6-furfuryladenine to these cultures the cells did not age as fast, the process slowed down dramatically…" On the flip side, Dr. Rattan mentioned, "We are curious about negative effects.... In cell cultures when a concentration of, say, 250 micromolars of N6-furfuryladenine was used, we got good results, but when we used 500 micromolars of N6-furfuryladenine the cells started dying." The quotes above are from my original phone interview with Dr. Rattan prior to my first reviews of products containing kinetin. He has since told me we can no longer have discussions about this ingredient, not a shock given that "loose lips often sink ships."

You may be wondering if, years later, there is any new research that finally shows kinetin to be a worthwhile ingredient to add to your "anti-aging" skin-care regimen. One published study examined the effect of applying a low dose of kinetin to the skin of hairless dogs. The applications lasted 100 days, and gradual skin texture, wrinkle, and depigmentation (skin lightening) improvement was observed in all subjects. However, the study was not done double-blind, it wasn't compared to a placebo, and dogs don't wrinkle or age the way we do. So it's really a stretch to suggest that the results on dog skin somehow translate to results on human skin (Source: Rejuvenation Research, Spring 2004, pages 32–39). Further and more recent research on kinetin hasn't proven it to be an antiwrinkle luminary or even a dim light (Source: Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences, May 2006, pages 332–342).

Using kinetin on skin remains as much of an unknown as it was when we first wrote about it. There are also conflicting results from studies trying to answer such questions as: How much kinetin is needed to have an effect? Can you use too much? How do you control the amount of skin cell differentiation? Can it exert antioxidant activity? The bottom line is that even if kinetin could be used by skin cells, there probably isn't enough kinetin in any product to have a negative or positive impact. However, that is only a guess; no one knows for sure, and so using products with kinetin remains potentially effective but still questionable. Besides, you have to ask yourself: If kinetin is such a miraculous ingredient, why aren't other companies using it in their products? Thus far, the licensing rights to kinetin haven't been setting the industry afire, and it's doubtful much more than a spark will be generated because everyone is always looking for the next buzz ingredient.

(Sources for the above: Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications, June 1994, pages 665–672, November 1999, pages 499–502, and October 2000, pages 1265–1270; Bioorganic and Medicinal Chemistry, May 2002, pages 1581–1586; and Dermatologic Clinics, October 2000, pages 609–615.)

For more information about Kinerase, call 1-800-321-4576 or visit www.kinerase.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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