Pro+ Therapy MD C8 Peptide Deep Wrinkle Treatment

by Kinerase  Pro+ Therapy
Price:
$95 - 1 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
4/29/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

Kinerase is all about an ingredient they use in most every single one of their products called Kinetin, the technical name for this ingredient is N6-furfuryladenine. There is no question Kinetin can grow skin cells and collagen in a petri dish but what is often left out of the marketing enthusiasm for this ingredient is that when you use too much Kinetin cells don't do so well and die off (Paula discovered this during an interview with Dr. Suresh Rattan, the man who discovered what Kinetin can do years ago).

There is some independent research showing that Kinetin can have benefit for skin on real people (as opposed to isolated cells in a petri dish) but the studies don't compare it to other beneficial ingredients such as retinol, antioxidants, or other skin-repairing ingredients. So, while Kinetin is an interesting ingredient it is not the best or the only answer to your skin care woes and the research actually says just about the same thing (well not the research from the company selling the ingredient but then you wouldn't expect that not to be the case).

In 2005, Dr. Rattan developed a new ingredient called Zeatin that his research showed can also grow skin cells and collagen and reduce cell aging, at least as shown on cells in a petri dish. It also doesn't seem to cause cell death as Kinetin can, though the research isn't exactly clear about that. That's exciting but it doesn't necessarily translate to the ultimate in skin care, either.

But now on to the Kinerase Pro+ Therapy MD Advanced group of products. This sub-brand is supposed to be sold only by doctors and a couple of "authorized" websites. It sounds exclusive but absolutely doesn't mean there is anything clinical or medical about these products. The ingredients in Kinerase Pro+ Therapy MD are all cosmetic and hold no special regulatory status whatsoever. These are just skin-care products, nothing more. The exclusivity-focused point of sale will make physicians happy if they decide to carry the line because doctors love selling products consumers think are medical and better than what's sold in stores even though everyone in the industry knows they aren't.

What makes these products different from Kinerase's "mainstream" line is Pro+ contains both Kinetin and Zeatin, where the originally only uses Kinetin. Kinerase seems to believe this combination is better than Kinetin alone so you have to wonder why you would want to bother with anything else they sell other than these? By creating these products, they're sending the message that their Kinetin-only products must not be as good.

Specific to this product, to be clear, there is nothing in here that will get rid of your deep wrinkles, so know the extreme nature of the product's name doesn't relate to its effectiveness. In terms of the other ingredients in this moisturizer it is appropriate for normal to dry skin with an interesting blend of some novel ingredients. It lacks skin-repairing ingredients included in other Pro+ products and is a disappointment in the category of antioxidants.

In terms of the novel ingredients it contains, the MD C8 peptide carries on about something called ChronoSphere Opticals which is the trade name for silica mixed with polyurethane and a green coloring agent. It's a little less appealing when you know the ingredient's real names; after all polyurethane is form of plastic. The company making this ingredient claims it is a powder that enhances the natural color of your skin and covers redness (that's what the green dye is for) but either way it is just a cosmetic enhancement, not a skin-care ingredient.

Another addition is SNAP-8 peptide which is said to target the "wrinkle formation mechanism" in the same manner as Botox injections. Although there is no substantiated research to support that claim, keep in mind that not even Botox works like Botox when it's applied topically! You don't need to worry as this ingredient doesn't paralyze the muscles of your face (thank goodness given you would be applying this all over). SNAP-8 (technically acetyl octapeptide-3) is the trade name for an ingredient manufactured by Centerchem. Of course, the only efficacy studies performed for this peptide were conducted by the manufacturer, and done in vitro rather than on human skin (Source: www.centerchem.com/PDFs/SNAP-8%20Tech%20Lit%20Aug05.pdf).

It's interesting to point out that the company uses two other trade names of ingredients instead of the actual name of the ingredients on the label, something they are required to do by regulatory boards around the world. These two other ingredients are Cosmocil CQ and Euxyl PE9010. As it turns out, both are just standard preservatives.

Overall this is a moisturizer that cloaks itself in being better than Botox with Kinetin and Zeatin added to the mix. We aren't excited because we just know there is nothing in here proven to reduce the deep wrinkles one may have.—and the formula has a couple of problematic ingredients that keep it from earning a good rating.

On a side note, we were a bit surprised, well, actually shocked may be a better word, to see hydrochloric acid on the label. Granted it is at the end of the ingredient list so there isn't much in here but this ingredient is one we rarely see in a skin-care product. Hydrochloric acid is highly corrosive and is a problem if you breathe it in. Granted, that information is about pure amounts but still, its inclusion here (which was confirmed by the company) should give you pause—especially if the company is really using it at a 10% concentration! Adding more trouble to the mix is fragrant orange oil, a skin irritant.

Pros:
  • Contains some intriguing anti-aging ingredients (though nothing that can remedy deep wrinkles).
  • Moisturizes dry skin.
Cons:
  • Expensive.
  • The claims are overstated as this cannot help deep wrinkles on the face, at least not beyond what most emollient moisturizers can do.
  • The hydrochloric acid and orange oil are irritating to skin.

Pro+Therapy MD C8 Peptide Deep Wrinkle Treatment is an innovative serum that restores youthfulness to your skin. The blend of peptides and anti aging ingredients works to increase collagen production to fill in deep wrinkles and lines around the mouth, eyes and forehead. The lightweight formula hydrates and softens the complexion to create a radiant appearance.

Purified Water, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Trilyceride, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate (And) PEG-100 Stearate, Cyclopentasiloxane (And) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Jojoba Esters, Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate (And) Water, Water (And) Glycerin (And) Pentapeptide-18 (And) Caprylyl Glycol, Argireline, SNAP-8 Solution, Chronosphere Opticals, Sympeptide 225, Sympeptide 222, Green Tea Extract, D-Panthenol 75W, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Cosmocil CQ, Euxyl PE9010, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate, Kinetin, Zeatin, Ethoxidiglycol, Trethanolamine (And) Water, Hydrochloric Acid 10%.

Valeant Pharmaceuticals owns and distributes this medically positioned line that's built around the ingredient kinetin, a plant-growth hormone whose technical name is N6-furfuryladenine. What makes kinetin interesting are the in vitro and animal studies demonstrating its effect as a growth factor. Most of these studies were conducted by Dr. Suresh I. S. Rattan, Ph.D., D.Sc., Associate Professor of Biogerontology at the University of Aarhus, Denmark, who happens to hold the patent for use of N6-furfuryladenine on aging skin.

Dr. Rattan told me in an interview, "Normal cells, as they divide and age, go through a progressive accumulation of changes that are irreversible until they reach a stage where they finally die. The in vitro form of creating cellular aging is called the Hayflick Phenomenon, named after the researcher who discovered this method of studying cellular aging in a laboratory setting." He went on to state that "a young cell is plump, round, smooth. As the cells age, they become irregular, flattened, and large, full of debris.… When you grow normal cells in the lab they have a limited number of times they multiply and divide—termed a cell's replicative life span. But when I added N6-furfuryladenine to these cultures the cells did not age as fast, the process slowed down dramatically…" On the flip side, Dr. Rattan mentioned, "We are curious about negative effects.... In cell cultures when a concentration of, say, 250 micromolars of N6-furfuryladenine was used, we got good results, but when we used 500 micromolars of N6-furfuryladenine the cells started dying." The quotes above are from my original phone interview with Dr. Rattan prior to my first reviews of products containing kinetin. He has since told me we can no longer have discussions about this ingredient, not a shock given that "loose lips often sink ships."

You may be wondering if, years later, there is any new research that finally shows kinetin to be a worthwhile ingredient to add to your "anti-aging" skin-care regimen. One published study examined the effect of applying a low dose of kinetin to the skin of hairless dogs. The applications lasted 100 days, and gradual skin texture, wrinkle, and depigmentation (skin lightening) improvement was observed in all subjects. However, the study was not done double-blind, it wasn't compared to a placebo, and dogs don't wrinkle or age the way we do. So it's really a stretch to suggest that the results on dog skin somehow translate to results on human skin (Source: Rejuvenation Research, Spring 2004, pages 32–39). Further and more recent research on kinetin hasn't proven it to be an antiwrinkle luminary or even a dim light (Source: Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences, May 2006, pages 332–342).

Using kinetin on skin remains as much of an unknown as it was when we first wrote about it. There are also conflicting results from studies trying to answer such questions as: How much kinetin is needed to have an effect? Can you use too much? How do you control the amount of skin cell differentiation? Can it exert antioxidant activity? The bottom line is that even if kinetin could be used by skin cells, there probably isn't enough kinetin in any product to have a negative or positive impact. However, that is only a guess; no one knows for sure, and so using products with kinetin remains potentially effective but still questionable. Besides, you have to ask yourself: If kinetin is such a miraculous ingredient, why aren't other companies using it in their products? Thus far, the licensing rights to kinetin haven't been setting the industry afire, and it's doubtful much more than a spark will be generated because everyone is always looking for the next buzz ingredient.

(Sources for the above: Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications, June 1994, pages 665–672, November 1999, pages 499–502, and October 2000, pages 1265–1270; Bioorganic and Medicinal Chemistry, May 2002, pages 1581–1586; and Dermatologic Clinics, October 2000, pages 609–615.)

For more information about Kinerase, call 1-800-321-4576 or visit www.kinerase.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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