The Hydrating Infusion

by La Mer  
Price:
$115 - 4.2 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Toners > Toners
Last Updated:
1/14/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

This product has a lightweight, fluid gel texture that resembles a moisturizer but feels more like a toner; however, given that La Mer doesn’t give it a typical name designation you’re left guessing. But, based on the directions, which tell you to use it after cleansing but before your moisturizer, you might as well think of it as a toner hybrid.

Supposedly, this is another product designed to “enhance” the fabled, near-miraculous benefits of the original Creme de la Mer, but you have to wonder: If that cream was so superior on its own, why does La Mer continue to offer product after (expensive) product to allegedly make it work better? If it’s so brilliant (and expensive) on its own, it shouldn’t need any enhancement, especially not from products that are essentially watered-down versions of the original.

No matter how you look at it, the original Creme de la Mer didn’t work as claimed and it is absolutely not the best moisturizer around. Lauder offers dozens of better formulations in their other lines for less money.

But back to The Hydrating Infusion. Aside from a potentially irritating amount of lime extract, it is actually chockfull of seaweed-based water-binding agents and plenty of antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients. Many of the state-of-the-art ingredients in this product are also present in products from other Lauder-owned lines, none of which have the elite price point of La Mer. The major difference between this product and other La Mer products is that they contain declustered water, gemstones, and “hydrating ferments” (whatever those are—you could describe raw sewage the same way) that La Mer claims makes them high-potency treatments. Regardless of what La Mer asserts—the Lauder company asserts myriad miraculous claims about all of their products—there is no published research to support La Mer’s “our products have the edge” claims. As a consumer, you’re left to decide if you want to go along with the hype or bypass it in favor of less expensive options that are also well-formulated. Those still considering The Hydrating Infusion should know it is best for normal to oily skin; but again, the amount of lime extract is cause for concern, especially if your skin is sensitive.

This high-potency treatment saturates the skin with a wave of hydration, smoothness and conditioning, preparing it to receive and boost the transformational benefits of Creme de la Mer. The Hydrating Infusion’s vital ingredients – vitamins, minerals, tourmaline and Hydrating Ferments – are suspended within a serum-like gel network. This interactive sea gel works with exclusive Deconstructed Waters to deliver extraordinary activity on demand.

Declustered Water (-), Declustered Water (+), Yeast Extract, Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Algae Extract, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Sucrose, Codium Tomentosum Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Glycereth-26, Artemia Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract, Castanea Sativa (Chestnut) Seed Extract, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Fossilized Mineral Water Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Urea, Selaginella Tamariscina (Spike Moss) Extract, Polysorbate 20, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Juice Extract, Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract, Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Peel Extract, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Pantethine, Linoleic Acid, Creatine, Glycosaminoglycans, Adenosine Phosphate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium PCA, Caffeine, Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Polyquaternium-51, Sorbitol, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Ethylhexylglycerin, PEG-8, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Linolenic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Trehalose, Butylene Glycol, Tourmaline, Cyanocobalamin, Cyclodextrin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, Fragrance, Citronellol, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal, Geraniol, Linalool, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate

The original Creme De La Mer was launched by Estee Lauder as a miracle product for wrinkles based on research from Max Huber, an aerospace physicist. How does space technology relate to wrinkles? Well, it doesn't, although it may lend an air of expertise (if you can do rocket science, the assumption is you can do anything). Huber at one time suffered severe chemical burns in an accident. Then, according to the Max Huber Laboratories, after 12 years and 6,000 experiments, he came up with a special cream. The company refers to its key element as "miracle broth," and it's said to take months to concoct and ferment. In this case, the process that goes into making La Mer products gets as much talk as the product itself. So be prepared for formulary information that sounds a lot like alchemy.

Huber's experiments took place over 30 years ago. Given that none of his self-experimentation was ever documented or published, there is no way to know what Huber was using before, what was unique about this formula, or what went wrong with the 5,999 or so other experiments that preceded the final discovery. It turns out that the original Creme De La Mer was, and still is, almost exclusively algae, mineral oil, Vaseline, thickening agents, and lime extract. Not very exciting stuff, but most of it will make dry skin look and feel better, although the jar packaging doesn't provide much hope for the algae. The notion that anything in this product can be a miracle for burns—or any aspect of skin care—is strictly folklore and has nothing to do with rocket science or even cosmetic chemistry for that matter.

Given the cult status the original Creme De La Mer enjoys, it's hardly surprising that Lauder has spun an entire skin-care line out of a product that was initially sold as the be-all and end-all antiwrinkle solution (in jar packaging, no less, which would have the effect of rendering the algae—the cornerstone of the product—unstable). In the world of skin care, if one product sells well, then other related products that carry the same name will experience increased sales, too. With today's expanded range of La Mer products, Estee Lauder has added a slew of hocus-pocus ingredients to the continuing list of concoctions that were never in Huber's original formula. So much for the credibility of that mythic story, because it obviously wasn’t good enough to be repeated.

These supplementary products contain malachite, a range of other minerals, diamond powder, something called "declustered" water, and another semiprecious stone, tourmaline (which is now being downplayed in favor of the semiprecious stone du jour, malachite). It's almost too outlandish to even begin explaining, but the declustered water deserves some elucidation. Before reading on, keep in mind that if these products were the ultimate for the Estee Lauder company, why are they still selling all those other anti-aging products in the dozen or so other lines they own and retail just around the cosmetics counter next door?

Supposedly, the La Mer products are worth the money because most of them contain declustered water. Declustered water is water manufactured to have smaller ions, which supposedly makes the water penetrate the skin better. There is no proof that this synthetic water does what the company claims, but even if the water could penetrate better, is that better for skin? There is definitely research indicating that too much water in the skin can make it plump, but that could also prevent cell turnover and renewal, and inhibit the skin's immune response. Either way, skin likes taking on water—it plumps to a thousand times its normal size just from taking a bath—and it doesn't need special water to help the process along, nor would that be good for skin in the long run. Moreover, if the declustered water were indeed capable of carrying La Mer's miracle broth further into skin, that would only make matters worse because some of the components in this broth are documented irritants.

Other gimmicky ingredients La Mer products contain are fish cartilage, algae (explained in the Creme De La Mer review), and the rarefied blue algae, which La Mer claims can "biologically lift" skin due to its nutrient-dense nature. While all of these may have some water-binding properties, the fiction that any of them could have an impact on wrinkles is not substantiated in any published scientific study.

For more information about La Mer, owned by Estee Lauder, call (866) 850-9400 or visit www.cremedelamer.com.

La Mer Makeup

Sold as Skincolor, La Mer's small but tidy makeup collection carries over the major miracle claims that their flawed skin-care products espouse. If you stop by the counter to explore these products, you'll hear all about their powers to "transform the complexion" with a special blue algae ferment and optical-diffusing gemstones (a concept Aveda and Estee Lauder also play up, but not to the extent La Mer does). We wouldn't count on algae or gemstones for any amount of transformation, especially given the small amounts of each included in the cosmetic products below. What you will find are two foundations with excellent sunscreen and a few more skin-care perks than are typically seen in liquid makeup. Does that make them worth the money? Not from my perspective, because you can find similar products that perform just as well. However, if you're already sold on La Mer, most of the items below won't disappoint and the shade selection is mostly impressive. Still, for the money, your face won't look any better than if you had applied makeup that's available at a fraction of this cost.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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