Glycolic 10% Treatment Cream (Discontinued)

Price:
$50 - 1.6 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > AHA Exfoliants > AHA
Last Updated:
4/1/2013
Jar Packaging:
Yes
pH:
4.10
Tested On Animals:
No

This is a good, though needlessly pricey, AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) product for normal to dry skin. The fragrance-free formula contains 10% of the AHA glycolic acid and is formulated at a pH that allows it to work as an exfoliant.

Although this is an option as an AHA exfoliant (assuming you don’t mind the price; less expensive options are readily available), the jar packaging is disappointing. Lancer added several proven antioxidants to make this more than just an exfoliant, but in jar packaging these important ingredients won’t remain stable during use.

Jar packaging is why this product didn’t earn a higher rating. Please see More Info for further details on the problems jar packaging presents. And please see our Best AHA Exfoliants list for less expensive options in better packaging.

Pros:
  • 10% glycolic acid formulated at a pH level that allows it to exfoliate.
  • Silky cream texture and satin finish are ideal for normal to dry skin.
  • Fragrance-free.
Cons:
  • Jar packaging reduces and eventually eliminates the effectiveness of the antioxidants this contains. That’s a shame, because the antioxidants are a nice addition to this product and your skin needs these ingredients!

More Info:

All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients.

This hydrating cream uses the power of glycolic acid to smooth the skin. A rich pairing of ultra-pure crystalline glycolic acid and antioxidants.

Purified Water, Glycolic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cyclomethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Ammonium Hydroxide, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Dimethicone, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q-10), Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Phospholipids, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Glucoside, PEG-100 Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Laureth-7, Disodium EDTA, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Imidazolidinyl Urea

Dr. Harold Lancer is a Beverly Hills dermatologist with celebrity clientele, two credentials that pique the interest of many women interested in skin care. His specialty is cosmetic rejuvenation and, like many dermatologists before him, Lancer has his own line of products: Lancer Dermatology Skincare.

Lancer's skin-care line is built around four steps: polish, cleanse, nourish, and protect. According to Lancer, these steps work for every skin type or aging concern. The polish (i.e. scrub) step involves applying a fairly abrasive, alkaline scrub before cleansing. Lancer's idea is that the polish loosens soil and cellular debris, which the cleanser you apply next will easily wash away.

After you cleanse, you're supposed to nourish skin with an anti-aging moisturizer. During the day, you're advised to protect your skin with sunscreen and, occasionally, if needed, you can apply a treatment product (such as a vitamin C cream).

Although Lancer's method is being hailed as unique or somehow different, it's ultimately nothing new to the skin-care industry: Exfoliation is necessary for younger-looking skin (but scrubs aren’t the best way to get this benefit), sun protection is vital, and a moisturizer loaded with skin-repairing ingredients helps replace what young skin produces naturally before it becomes damaged.

The polish (scrub) before the cleansing step is a new twist, but it's actually a problem if you're wearing makeup. Scrubbing skin before you remove your makeup will grind the makeup deeper into your pores, making it harder for the cleanser to remove. If anything, you should cleanse first, polish second.

Although Lancer's method is being hailed as unique or somehow different, it's about as interesting as white bread. If anything, it's a mix of dated and modern concepts built on information that researchers have known about for years: Exfoliation is necessary for younger-looking skin (but scrubbing isn't the best way to get this benefit), sun protection is vital, and a moisturizer loaded with skin-repairing ingredients helps replace what young skin produces naturally before it becomes damaged.

Unfortunately, Lancer’s scrubs are all alkaline (high pH) and contain overly abrasive scrub ingredients and fragrance extracts that skin doesn’t need. The nighttime moisturizers are all packaged in jars (exposing their beneficial ingredients to air), and the one sunscreen in the line is alcohol based (which isn’t a good thing for skin, as we’ll discuss in the product review).

There are some highlights in the line, such as good options for a 10% vitamin C treatment and AHA exfoliant, but ultimately you don’t need to spend this much to have healthy, younger-looking skin. In fact, because many of Lancer's products contain one or more problematic ingredients, you may end up thinking, “why bother?”

For more information about Lancer Dermatology Skincare, call (310) 278-8444 or visit http://www.lancerskincare.com/.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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