11.26.2014
6
48
Advanced Genifique Youth Activating Concentrate
Rating
1 fl. oz. for $84
Last Updated:11.26.2014
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:Yes
Review Overview

Lancome's claim for this updated version of their popular, heavily advertised water-based serum have been severely tempered. The original formula boasted that it boosted the activity of skin's genes, but the claims were worded to sound more enticing than they really were. The Advanced version is said to reactivate the 10 key signs of youth, morning and evening—but Lancome doesn't explain what those signs are, so it's up to the consumer to pin their anti-aging hopes on this serum.

Should you do that? Despite all the hype, we wouldn't advise it. First, the serum's latest formula is only slightly better than the original, and the latest formula still contains a potentially irritating amount of alcohol, which is pro-aging (see More Info for details). Although it's good that this serum contains antioxidants such as vitamin C (ascorbyl glucoside) and skin-repairing sodium hyaluronate, lots of serums and other treatment products provide the same ingredients for less money, and without potentially problematic ingredients.

One of the more unique ingredients in Advanced Genefique is bifida ferment lysate. Also present in the original formula and in Estee Lauder's superior Advanced Night Repair products, it's a type of yeast that, to date, has no published research proving its anti-aging benefits, including its ability to somehow reactivate anything in skin, though the term "reactivate" is wide open to interpretation. A basic moisturizer could "reactivate" smoother, softer skin.

There is limited research showing that yeast ferment filtrate (a compound different from bifida ferment lysate) does reduce oxidative skin damage in the presence of UV light, but this research also showed that many other antioxidants have a similar effect. (Sources: Archives of Dermatological Research, April 2008, pages S51–S56; and Journal of Dermatological Science, June 2006, pages 249–257).

What's so unfortunate is that countless people will believe the hype and go out and waste their money on this half-baked serum. Lancome could've really hit a home run by reformulating this with a different type of yeast ferment and joining that with an even more potent cocktail of antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and no alcohol or fragrance. As is, you're left with a lightweight serum that will make skin feel smooth, but that offers precious little additional benefit for all skin types.

Note: This serum is dispensed via a dropper applicator. Although not the ideal method to dispense a serum that contains light- and air-sensitive ingredients, sometimes this type of packaging is necessary due to formulary requirements. When that's the case, the goal is to keep the bottle opening as small as possible, the bottle should be opaque or specially coated to protect the contents from light, and you should use the serum up within three months of opening.

Pros:
  • Sleek packaging and a silky finish.
  • Feels light and smoothing.
Cons:
  • Contains enough alcohol to risk pro-aging skin irritation.
  • The fragrance and fragrance ingredient citronellol pose an additional risk of irritation.
  • For the money, this isn't as chockfull of anti-aging ingredients as it should be.
More Info:

Alcohol in skin-care products (especially when it's among the first few ingredients) can cause dryness and free-radical damage, and impair the skin's ability to heal. The irritation it causes damages healthy collagen production and can stimulate oil production at the base of the pore, making oily skin worse (Sources: Biochimica et Biophysica Acta, May 2012, pages 1,410–1,419; Alcoholism, Clinical and Experimental Research, January 2011, pages 83–90; "Skin Care—From the Inside Out and Outside In," Tufts Daily, April 1, 2002; eMedicine Journal, May 8, 2002, volume 3, number 5, www.emedicine.com; Cutis, February 2001, pages 25–27; Contact Dermatitis, January 1996, pages 12–16; and http://pubs.niaaa.nih.gov/publications/arh27-4/277-284.htm).

Claims

Lancôme introduces New Advanced Génifique for smoother and more radiant skin that you can see and feel. First results in just 7 days. Reactivates the 10 key signs of youth, day and night. This innovative formula, featuring Génifique’s powerful new complex with added biotechnology-derived ingredient, is incredible to the touch.

Ingredients

Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Alcohol Denatured, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Adenosine, Faex Extract/Yeast Extract/Extrait De Levure, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide/Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Limonene, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Octyldodecanol, Citronellol, Parfum/Fragrance.

Brand Overview

Lancome At-A-Glance

Strengths: Some good cleansers; well-formulated scrubs; foundations with beautiful shades for almost every skin color; great concealers; several outstanding mascaras; the Artliner liquid eyeliners perform well; impressive powder eyeshadows; some fantastic lipsticks and automatic lipliner.

Weaknesses: Expensive for what amounts to mostly mediocre to below-average skincare products; lacking in effective treatments for blemishes or lightening skin discolorations; average toners; moisturizers that are short on including state-of-the-art ingredients; jar packaging; some foundations with sunscreen do not provide complete UVA protection.

French flair, free gifts with purchase, constant magazine ads, and attractive packaging impel women to seek out the Lancome counter. Once you're there, though, unless you're captured by the enticing claims, the skin-care products are resoundingly dull, and we mean really, really dull (the makeup is a different story). With new research and developments in skin care many cosmetics companies typically improve their formulas, even if just in a small way. That’s not the case with Lancome, which tends to raise their prices while producing lackluster, ordinary formulas with little benefit for skin.

Even more shocking is that their most expensive skin-care items tend to be the most disappointing, usually for what they lack rather than for what they contain. It's startling to realize that their priciest moisturizer is remarkably similar to dozens of other Lancome creams priced more reasonably (but still too high when you consider what you're getting for the money). It seems that all it takes to justify the excessive prices is a good story based around a rare ingredient and claims of delivering a younger look. What a shame so many consumers are taken in by this kind of marketing mumbo jumbo.

L'Oreal-owned Lancome, along with L'Oreal's own skin-care products sold at the drugstore, has fallen well behind their competition. For all their lofty claims and beautiful models, many other companies leave them in the dust. Most of the Lauder companies (Clinique, Estee Lauder), along with Dove, and Olay have skin-care formularies that consistently outperform those of Lancome and L'Oreal in terms of what substantiated research has shown is necessary to have healthy, more wrinkle- and age-resistant skin. Lancome claims to understand women, and they certainly know how to entice them with pretty packaging and scientific-sounding claims. It would be far better if they had an intimate understanding of what it really takes for skin to look its best and function optimally.

The biggest improvement Lancome has made is that almost all of their sunscreens now include the right UVA-protecting ingredients. Who knows why it took them so long to get this straightened out (L'Oreal is no stranger to this issue, as they have developed and patented new UVA filters throughout the years), but it is now easier than ever to find a reliable sunscreen from Lancome. Given their prominence and presence in department stores around the world, Lancome isn't easy to ignore. Our suggestion is to look beyond most of the skin care and focus on what they do best: makeup (especially foundations and mascaras).

Note: Unless mentioned otherwise, all Lancome products contain fragrance.

For more information about Lancome, owned by L'Oreal, call (800) 526-2663 or visit www.lancome.com.

Lancome Makeup

L'Oreal-owned Lancome is a stellar, French-bred collection of makeup that remains the best reason to shop this line. Because most of Lancome's skin-care products have problematic elements (be it jar packaging, insufficient sun protection, or dated formulas), it is a relief to find that, for the most part, the colorful side of their business has more than its share of innovative products. We enjoyed the fact that no matter where we shopped, Lancome's counter personnel were friendly, knowledgeable, and helpful. There's a lot to keep track of, and Lancome deserves credit for keeping their salespeople so well informed.

If you're looking for a force to reckon with for foundations, Lancome is a must-see. They continue to offer some of the most elegant, silky formulas anywhere and in a color range that is overwhelmingly neutral, whether your skin is porcelain or ebony. The only troubling aspect is that most of Lancome's foundations with sunscreen do not contain adequate UVA protection or the SPF rating is too low. Lancome obviously knows about the risks with these issues (after all, they market ecamsule, their version of the UVA-protecting ingredient Mexoryl SX, and brag about its UVA range). And considering that, we are not recommending as many of their foundations as we have in previously have. Beyond this major gripe, you will discover that Lancome has a well-deserved reputation for their fantastic mascaras, and that their latest powders and eyeshadows apply with a silkiness that makes them gratifying to work with. The rest of the makeup encompasses many valid choices, but before you commit to Lancome, consider the similar options available for less from sister companies L'Oreal and Maybelline New York. Striking a balance among the best of each of these lines will give you first-class makeup that beautifies without breaking the bank.

Note: Lancome is categorized as a brand that tests on animals because its products are sold in China. Although Lancome does not conduct animal testing for its products sold elsewhere, the Chinese government requires imported cosmetics be tested on animals, so foreign companies retailing there must comply. This requirement is why some brands state that they don’t test on animals “unless required by law.” Animal rights organizations consider cosmetic companies retailed in China to be brands that test on animals, and so does the Paula’s Choice Research Team.

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

Member Comments
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07.15.2015
Disappointed Lancome Customer

I worked at the Lancome counter as a salesperson who loved this line twenty-five years ago when I took a year of absence from teaching. I especially loved Nutribel, Niasome and Noctosome and got many compliments on my skin. Unfortunately, I have not noticed any difference in my skin using Genifique on my face and the eyes for almost a month. Needless to say, I am disappointed with the new Lancome products and thankful for HSN for kindly accepting returns.

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Reviewed by
Mirka Christesen
06.11.2015
Investment!

Can't go without. The thing to understand about this is that it's about fundamental strengthening and PREVENTION. 20 years from now you'll thank it.

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Reviewed by
David
05.24.2015
I love this stuff

I remember using this product a few years ago and loving it but the price was too high for me at the time. I recently received a sample and I have had so many compliments about my skin since. So much that I had to buy the full size product. This is one of the only products that I and others notice makes significant difference in the look of my skin. I was even told 'you don't need base make up' after this. I really can't speak highly enough and recommend to all my friends.

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Reviewed by
Natasha
03.15.2015
Genefique Products

I have been using Genifique Youth Eye & Face Serums for a few months now. I noticed an immediate change in my texture and brightness of my skin with in the first 24 hours of use. As time has passed to the current, I am 40yo and I wear absolutely no make up because my skin is so clear, pores are reduced and everyone thinks I am 10+ years younger than I am. I swear by this stuff, it's AMAZING & with every penny. In the first 2 weeks I used it 2x day where I use it only 1x day now. I am beautiful!

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Reviewed by
Glinski, S
03.08.2014
Holy Grail

The first product I've ever used that does something definite for my skin. I received a sample, applied it at bedtime and forgot the next day that I'd used it. I immediately noticed my skin was brighter and clearer. Upon second thought, I recalled I'd used the genifique the night before. To me, this is as close to a miracle as you get. No, it hasn't removed or much diminished wrinkles but my skin looks noticeably better. Expensive and worth it.

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Reviewed by
celeste
10.23.2013
I was fooled by the gimmick

I normally would not condemn any product in public but this one is totally a piece of crap! I bought it bcoz of their ads claiming "x" no of bottles sold (I wonder how true was that?). When the promoter first tested it on my hand, I was already not comfortable with the strong fragrance and the smell of the strong alcohol. I thought I was wrong. (How can my first perception be more accurate than those women that rated it highly?) After using for few mths, I found I lost firmness!

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Reviewed by
Michelle Foo
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