Vitamin C Pure Radiance Night Cream

by Lumene  
Price:
$19.99 - 1.7 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
8/27/2013
Jar Packaging:
Yes
Tested On Animals:
No

This is a decent moisturizer for dry skin, but it has a heavy texture that can feel occlusive and isn't the best for layering with other nighttime products unless your skin is very dry.

As for the vitamin C and the plant extracts, while they are beneficial ingredients for skin, they won't remain effective for long because this moisturizer is packaged in a jar. See More Info to learn why this type of packaging is a problem.

Lumene claims this "balances skin's functions" at night, but who knows what they mean by such a statement. What "functions" does skin have? It could mean anything the consumer wants it to.

As you sleep, the skin is in repair mode, but it's also in repair mode during daylight hours, too! The notion that special work is done only at night isn't supported by any published research; it's just one way many cosmetics companies differentiate night creams from daytime moisturizers. The only difference between a daytime moisturizer and a nighttime moisturizer is that the daytime product should provide sun protection. Regardless of the time of day, all moisturizers should be loaded with antioxidants and skin-repairing ingredients.

Last, this contains a small amount of fragrance ingredients that pose a risk of irritation. This issue, along with the jar packaging (which all but guarantees the vitamin C won't help your skin because it won't remain effective for long once the jar is opened), means this is a moisturizer to skip!

Pros:
  • Emollient formula is good for very dry skin.
Cons:
  • Jar packaging won't keep the vitamin C and other key ingredients stable once opened.
  • Contains fragrance ingredients that pose a risk of irritation.
More Info:

Jar Packaging: The fact that it's packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you're dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818–829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271–288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314–321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197–203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1–32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).

Nightly use of Fragrant Products: Nightly use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes chronic irritation that can damage healthy collagen production, lead to or worsen dryness, and impair your skin's ability to heal. Fragrance-free is the best way to go for all skin types. If fragrance in your skin-care products is important to you, it should be a very low amount to minimize the risk to your skin (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).

Fresh and soft cream deep-nourishes and balances the skin’s functions during the night.
Aqua (Water), PEG-8 Beeswax, Isononyl Isononanoate, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Panthenol, Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, PEG-8, Tocopherol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Laureth-7, Disodium EDTA, Retinyl Palmitate, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Citronellol, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Parfum (Fragrance).

The Cosmetics Cop Team strongly suspects that the interest in this product line from Finland is its prestige packaging, coupled with a relatively attractive price point. This is an eye-catching brand that really stands out on drugstore shelves; however, these products aren't really all that inexpensive, especially in comparison to products from Olay, Neutrogena, or RoC. In the United States, you'll find Lumene products at most CVS drugstores as well as at Ulta, Target, and Walgreens. Although the Cosmetics Cop Team loves to find and recommend inspired skin-care and makeup products at reasonable prices, this line isn't one of them.

Two major shortcomings are: (1), the jar packaging, which means any state-of-the-art ingredients in those products won't remain stable once the jar is opened because they deteriorate in the presence of air, and (2), most of Lumene's formulas contain only a dusting of the superstar ingredients they brag about. Vitamin C, ceramides, antioxidants, peptides, and the like are all essential, brilliant ingredients for skin, but when only minute amounts are included, your skin isn't getting much of the good stuff.

What it comes down to is this: Shopping Lumene shortchanges your skin, leaving it needing, and deserving, far better. A bargain isn't a bargain if it isn't the best possible care for your skin. What good is saving money on skin care if your skin is left wanting and, in fact, needing more?

Aside from the jar packaging and the paltry amount of important skin-care ingredients, there are other limitations, adding to this line's woes. If you have acne, skin discolorations, or uneven skin tone, you need to look elsewhere.

From a marketing point of view, Lumene capitalizes on the erroneous notion that age is a skin type, so they group their products according to decades. Complete nonsense! Age is not a skin type, nor is race, height, weight, or ethnic background. Regardless of your age, if you have acne, rosacea, dry skin, oily skin, sun damage, or blackheads, the same ingredients that work for someone in their 30s will work for someone in their 40s, 50s, or 60s. There isn't a single piece of research showing that any specific ingredients or formulations are better for skin depending on your age.

Like a vast number of cosmetics companies, Lumene leads you to believe their products are all natural and loaded with beneficial plant extracts, in this case, from the remote wilderness of Finland. Nothing could be further from the truth. These products are loaded with synthetic ingredients. That doesn't make them inherently bad, it just makes the marketing claims obnoxious and misleading.

For those intent on exploring what this Finnish line has to offer, despite the fact there isn't much here worth your attention, your best bet is to stick with the products for sensitive skin, which are truly fragrance-free, and the cleansers. Oh, and if you want to find out if the cult classic status of Lumene's Blueberry Curl mascara is deserved, look no further: It most certainly is!

One more comment: Many Lumene products contain an extract or oil from the Arctic cloudberry plant. Although there is research proving this plant has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, it is far from the only one, and isn't even close to being the best for skin. The fact that Lumene chooses to highlight this plant is about marketing nonsense, because stories sell better than reality. Whether it is from the Amazon, the Swiss Alps, or the Himalayas, geographic location is not what makes a plant extract of any kind superior for skin.

For more information about Lumene, call (888) 253-8916 or visit www.lumeneusa.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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