This creamy, emollient moisturizer for dry skin is packaged in an airless jar to ensure the stability of the light- and air-sensitive ingredients it contains. Among those ingredients is retinol, and Mary Kay included it in an amount that appears to be greater than the amount in many other available retinol products. (Keep in mind, however, that more retinol isn't necessarily better; too much can result in red, flaky, irritated skin.)
Along with retinol are other anti-aging ingredients, including antioxidant-rich emollients, some soothing plant extracts, and a peptide. Those are all great, but there's a misstep, too: The formula contains cinnamon bark extract, which can be irritating. Cinnamon contains volatile components that can cause an allergic reaction, so, although it offers antioxidant benefits, it's not among the best to look for in terms of gentleness (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com). Still, on balance, this is the most impressive (and pleasant to use) Timewise Repair product.
What about Mary Kay's Volu-Firm complex? According to the company, this complex consists of three ingredients present in every Timewise Repair product: a peptide, an ingredient that helps boost skin's hyaluronic acid content (Mary Kay doesn't specify what this ingredient is), and plant stem cells.
Plant stem cells in skin-care products are fairly useless because stem cells must be alive to have an effect, and in a skin-care product that certainly wouldn't be the case (see More Info for details on this). In general, the research about peptides is at best minor, coming primarily from the companies selling the ingredients or the products containing them, which means that the research is not proof of anything. Theoretically, peptides can have benefit, but because no one knows for sure it would be a mistake to rely solely on them, in any formulation, to make a difference for wrinkles or sagging.
Many skin-care ingredients can increase the amount of hyaluronic acid in the skin, but none of that works in any way like the hyaluronic acid dermal injections you get from dermatologists. Applying a moisturizer will not fill out a wrinkle or lift sagging skin at all like dermal injections. And in terms of volume loss due to fat loss in the face (all of us have facial fat pads that shift at different rates over time, leading to hollowing and sagging), Mary Kay's technology cannot stop that from happening.
The volume-boosting and firming claims for Mary Kay's Volu-Firm complex come from a study (although it isn't published) that used only the three ingredients, not the actual product. The amount of the three ingredients in the product is much less than that used in their testing, so claiming that the actual product has benefit is a real stretch. The bottom line from just about any perspective is that Timewise Repair isn't an ingenious way to "go back in time" and "lift away the years." See More Info to learn what you can do to help sagging skin.
- Lush, creamy texture feels great on dry skin.
- Contains an impressive amount of retinol.
- Packaged to ensure the stability of key ingredients.
- Cinnamon bark extract can be a skin irritant.
- Cannot lift skin or restore youthful contours.
STEM CELLS: Stem cells are cells in animals and plants that are capable of becoming any other type of cell in that organism and of producing more of those cells. Despite the fact that stem cell research is in its infancy, many cosmetics companies claim they are successfully using plant-based or human-derived stem cells in their anti-aging products. The claims run the gamut, from reducing wrinkles to elastin repair and cell regeneration, so the temptation for consumers to try these is intense.
The truth is that stem cells in skin-care products do not work as claimed. In fact, they likely have no effect at all because stem cells must be alive to function as stem cells. Once these delicate cells are added to skin-care products, they are long dead and, therefore, useless. It's actually a good thing that stem cells in skin-care products can't work as claimed because one stem cell study has revealed that they present a potential risk of cancer.
Plant stem cells, such as those derived from apples, melons, and rice, cannot stimulate stem cells in human skin, but because they are from plants these ingredients likely have antioxidant properties. It's a good thing plant stem cells can't work as stem cells in skin-care products; after all, you don't want your skin to absorb cells that can grow into apples or watermelons!
There are also claims that because a plant's stem cells allow a plant to repair itself or survive in harsh climates, these benefits can be passed on to human skin. How a plant functions in nature is unrelated to human skin, and these claims are completely without substantiation.
Another twist on the issue is that cosmetics companies claim they have taken components (such as peptides) out of the plant stem cells and made them stable so they then can work as stem cells. This approach is not valid because stem cells must be complete to function normally. Even if you could isolate substances or extracts from these cells and make them stable, there is no published research showing they can affect stem cells in human skin.
HELP FOR SAGGING SKIN: Many skin-care products claim they can firm and lift skin, but none of them work, at least not to the extent claimed. A face-lift-in-a-bottle isn't possible, but with the right mix of products, you will see firmer skin that has a more lifted appearance—and that's exciting! To gain these youthful benefits, you must protect your skin from any and all sun damage every day, use an AHA (glycolic acid or lactic acid) or BHA (salicylic acid) exfoliant, and use products that have a wide range of antioxidants and skin-repairing ingredients. Remember, no single product can do it all; it's the combination of products that has extensive research showing it can significantly improve many of the signs of aging, such as firming skin, reducing wrinkles and brown spots, and eliminating dullness. You'll find them on our list of Best Anti-Aging/Anti-Wrinkle Products.
USING PRODUCTS WITH FRAGRANT IRRITANTS: Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes chronic irritation that can damage healthy collagen production, lead to or worsen dryness, and impair your skin's ability to heal. Fragrance-free is the best way to go for all skin types. If fragrance in your skin-care products is important to you, it should be a very low amount to minimize the risk to your skin (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).