Moisture Defense Antioxidant Moisturizer SPF 20 (Discontinued)

by MD Formulations   Moisture Defense
Price:
$36 - 1.7 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer with Sunscreen
Last Updated:
11/5/2012
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

Now this is how to formulate a great daytime moisturizer with sunscreen! UVA protection is assured thanks to zinc oxide, and the silky lotion formula feels great and works beautifully for normal to dry skin. Antioxidants are plentiful, the formula includes some good water-binding agents, and it is fragrance-free. “Moisture and protection without a greasy look and feel” is a fairly accurate way to describe this product. Those with slightly oily skin will find this doesn’t hold back shine, but those with normal to dry skin will find it leaves a natural matte finish that is comfortable under makeup. Well done, MD Formulations!

A multi-benefit moisturizer with sunscreen and age defense in one. Essential hydration combines with potent antioxidants, soothing plant extracts and broad-spectrum SPF 20 for comprehensive protection against future skin aging and damage. The lightweight texture can be used by all skin types and is ideal for those who want moisture and protection without the greasy look or feel.

Active: Octinoxate (7.5%), Zinc Oxide (5%), Other: Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isododecane, Dimethiconol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG 100 Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Nylon 12,Tocopherol Acetate, Panthenol, Aloe Vera Gel, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Superoxide Dismutase, Bisabolol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Superoxide Dismutase, Sodium Lactate, Praline, Camellia Oleifera(Japanese Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Isohexadecane, Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, Hexylene Glycol, EDTA

This medically oriented, spa- and salon-sold skin-care company has its roots in alpha hydroxy acids, and was selling products with these ingredients as early as 1983, years before the cosmetics industry at large began promoting AHAs as the latest antiwrinkle miracle. The AHA craze has long since quieted, but ongoing, substantiated research has proven what a valuable asset properly formulated AHAs can be for skin. MD Formulations uses glycolic acid and ammonium glycolate (an exfoliant and pH adjuster related to glycolic acid) as its chief AHAs. Glycolic acid, in particular, has the most long-term research establishing its benefit for skin. Its list of benefits for skin is impressive, and these include improving photodamaged skin, normalizing the surface of skin so it appears smoother and healthier, improving the function of the skin's outer structure so it protects skin and reduces dryness, eliminating a dull surface, and stimulating collagen production (Sources: Journal of Dermatology, January 2006, pages 16–22; Experimental Dermatology, 2003 Supplement, pages 5763; Cutis, August 2001, pages 135–142; Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, July 2000, pages 280–284; American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, March-April 2000, pages 81–88; Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, May-June 1999, pages 111–119; Dermatologic Surgery, August 1997, pages 689–694; Journal of Cell Physiology, October 1999, pages 14–23; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 1996, pages 867–875).

This is exciting information, but it's critical to keep in mind that glycolic acid (and AHAs in general) is not the only answer for aging, sun-damaged skin. Luckily, MD Formulations thinks so too, because several of their latest products contain AHAs along with antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients (such as peptides and phospholipids), and retinol (cell-communicating ingredient and antioxidant). Research has shown that combining an AHA with retinol enhances its bioactivity in the lower layers of skin without altering the efficacy of the AHA (Source: Dermatology, 2005 Supplement, pages 6–13).

In many respects, next to the Lauder-owned lines, MD Formulations has a fantastic roster of antioxidant-laden moisturizers and serums. Even their toner is highly recommended, and we don't often get excited about toners (well, except my own, but that's another review). Surprisingly, for a company that is close to the cutting edge of creating state-of-the-art skin-care products, they still use jar packaging for many products whose ingredients are light- and air-sensitive. Those products should be avoided, especially for what MD Formulations is charging.

It's also distressing that half of their sunscreens lack sufficient UVA protection and a handful of products contain well-known irritants that don't promote healthy, intact skin (what were they thinking?). Due to the manner in which well-formulated AHA products work, sun protection is essential. As skin's outer, thickened layer is removed, the vibrant, "new" skin is more vulnerable to sun damage. It would be optimal if MD Formulations stocked a wider variety of effective sunscreens, and added as many antioxidants to them as they do to most of their moisturizers and serums. Still, plenty of other lines sell beautifully formulated sunscreens, so you can cherry-pick the suitable prime options from MD Formulations and fill in the sun-protection blank elsewhere (which isn't a bad idea—this is an expensive skin-care line).

For more information about MD Formulations, call (800) 451-3940 or visit www.mdformulations.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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