It’s a good thing the fruit extracts aren’t front and center in this AHA gel. First of all, they don’t work like AHAs, and, second, they can be needlessly irritating. As it turns out, this contains an efficacious amount of time-tested AHA lactic acid, and the pH of 3.6 allows it to exfoliate. The texture is beautifully silky and it sets to a smooth matte finish, making this ideal under makeup or for pairing with a moisturizer. Although it’s pricey, it is a well-formulated AHA product and one of the better options from Merle Norman. Of course, this is easily replaced by less expensive versions that leave out the irritating plant extracts.
Concentrated formula achieves faster, more effective exfoliation with our highest level of Alpha Hydroxy Fruit Acids (10%). Helps improve skin tone and clarity. Also helps alleviate dry patches on the face, neck, hands and elbows. Oil-free.
Water, Lactic Acid, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylamide, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Triethanolamine, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Saccharide Isomerate, Lemon Fruit extract, Orange Fruit Extract, Sugar Maple Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Laureth-7, Fragrance, Phenoxyethanol, Diazolidinyl Urea
Merle Norman opened her first cosmetics studio in Santa Monica, California, in 1931. She believed strongly that women would love her products, if only she could "get them on their faces," and the company's now-famous try-before-you-buy program was launched. To this day, women who visit any of Merle Norman's 2,000 boutiques spread across the United States, Canada, and Mexico can take advantage of the company's product samples before making a purchase.
The free samples are great, but the question is why anyone would be inclined to try Merle Norman skin-care products. Although there have been some improvements since the Cosmetics Cop Team last reviewed this brand, much of what was problematic back then is still around today, and still problematic - and that's not good news for your skin.
Across the board, the biggest issue is jar packaging. Several of the moisturizers didn't receive better than a neutral face rating because they are poorly packaged. For a company claiming to be cutting edge, they somehow missed, or chose to ignore, the research showing how state-of-the-art ingredients deteriorate when exposed to light and air. In addition, repeatedly sticking your fingers into a product isn't sanitary, and further degrades the ingredients. What good is adding a lot of antioxidants and other plant extracts or vitamins to a product if their efficacy is all but gone within a week or two of opening?
There are other weak spots to watch out for, too, especially in the Luxiva Changing Skin and Luxiva Clear Complexion lines. Merle Norman also sells a group of antiquated products that are little more than cold cream and super-greasy moisturizers. These are as far removed as you can get from what we know about what skin needs to look younger and function in a healthy manner. Using many of Merle Norman's products is like using a typewriter instead of a computer.
As far as what's to like, you'll find several well-formulated cleansers and toners, some reliable AHA and BHA products, and an impressive lip balm, and most of the SPF-rated products provide broad-spectrum protection. Ultimately, it wouldn't be wise to try to assemble a comprehensive skin-care routine from Merle Norman, but if you focus on their better products you'll do okay.
For the record, it is perfectly fine to mix Merle Norman products with those from other brands. We doubt you'll get this advice if you visit any of the Merle Norman Studios, but it's true. In fact, this applies to any skin-care brand—what counts is the individual product and how well it's formulated, not the company's predetermined ideas that their products work best if and only if they're used together.
For more information about Merle Norman, call (310) 641-3000 or visit www.merlenorman.com.
Note: We know that we've stated for quite some time that the team wouldn't be revisiting this line because of Merle Norman's complete disinterest in helping us get the information we need to review their products accurately. Over the years, my staff has been kicked out of several Merle Norman boutiques, both here in the Seattle area and in other states. As soon as we began taking notes or if we asked too many questions, we were eyed with suspicion and then asked to leave. There are two reasons we changed our mind: (1) our Beautypedia subscribers kept asking us to re-review this brand, and (2) a Merle Norman employee agreed to help us obtain the information we need, as long as she remained anonymous. We wish to extend a sincere thanks to the woman who sent us dozens upon dozens of samples and helped us compile all of the accurate information that made these reviews possible.
Please note: These product prices are in U.S. dollars, and for reasons unknown Merle Norman products are substantially more expensive in Canadian boutiques. Please be aware when shopping that these ratings are a reflection of U.S. prices only.