Renew

Price:
$42 - 1 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Specialty Products > Specialty Skin Care Products
Last Updated:
1/21/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
No

This pseudo-exfoliant claims to boost skin’s natural exfoliation while promoting an even skin tone and reducing the appearance of pores. It does have a skin-smoothing texture, but it lacks a significant amount of ingredients that promote exfoliation. Glucosamine, as acetyl glucosamine, can help this process along, but the hydrochloride form (which this product contains) is a pH adjuster (Sources: www.cosmeticsinfo.org; and Journal of Cosmetic Science, July-August 2009, pages 423–428), which may be good the formulation but won’t help your skin. The type of urea in this product makes it a good moisturizing ingredient, but it’s not anything the skin has to have. In the end, this specialty product works best to improve skin texture for normal to dry skin, but it doesn’t contain the broad array of ingredients needed to achieve a beautiful complexion.

Gentle, silky lotion with non-acid ingredients enhances skin’s natural exfoliation process. Helps give skin an even tone while helping to reduce redness and relieve flakiness and roughness. Revitalizes the appearance of skin and helps pores appear less obvious, uncovering a beautiful complexion.

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Phenyl Trimethicone, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Polyacrylamide, Dimethicone/Vinyl, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Glucosamine Hydrochloride, Algae Extract, Yeast Extract, Urea Bacillus Ferment, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Cetyl Phosphate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Nylon-12, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Carbomer Disodium EDTA, Diazolidinyl Urea, Fragrance

Merle Norman opened her first cosmetics studio in Santa Monica, California, in 1931. She believed strongly that women would love her products, if only she could "get them on their faces," and the company's now-famous try-before-you-buy program was launched. To this day, women who visit any of Merle Norman's 2,000 boutiques spread across the United States, Canada, and Mexico can take advantage of the company's product samples before making a purchase.

The free samples are great, but the question is why anyone would be inclined to try Merle Norman skin-care products. Although there have been some improvements since the Cosmetics Cop Team last reviewed this brand, much of what was problematic back then is still around today, and still problematic - and that's not good news for your skin.

Across the board, the biggest issue is jar packaging. Several of the moisturizers didn't receive better than a neutral face rating because they are poorly packaged. For a company claiming to be cutting edge, they somehow missed, or chose to ignore, the research showing how state-of-the-art ingredients deteriorate when exposed to light and air. In addition, repeatedly sticking your fingers into a product isn't sanitary, and further degrades the ingredients. What good is adding a lot of antioxidants and other plant extracts or vitamins to a product if their efficacy is all but gone within a week or two of opening?

There are other weak spots to watch out for, too, especially in the Luxiva Changing Skin and Luxiva Clear Complexion lines. Merle Norman also sells a group of antiquated products that are little more than cold cream and super-greasy moisturizers. These are as far removed as you can get from what we know about what skin needs to look younger and function in a healthy manner. Using many of Merle Norman's products is like using a typewriter instead of a computer.

As far as what's to like, you'll find several well-formulated cleansers and toners, some reliable AHA and BHA products, and an impressive lip balm, and most of the SPF-rated products provide broad-spectrum protection. Ultimately, it wouldn't be wise to try to assemble a comprehensive skin-care routine from Merle Norman, but if you focus on their better products you'll do okay.

For the record, it is perfectly fine to mix Merle Norman products with those from other brands. We doubt you'll get this advice if you visit any of the Merle Norman Studios, but it's true. In fact, this applies to any skin-care brand—what counts is the individual product and how well it's formulated, not the company's predetermined ideas that their products work best if and only if they're used together.

For more information about Merle Norman, call (310) 641-3000 or visit www.merlenorman.com.

Note: We know that we've stated for quite some time that the team wouldn't be revisiting this line because of Merle Norman's complete disinterest in helping us get the information we need to review their products accurately. Over the years, my staff has been kicked out of several Merle Norman boutiques, both here in the Seattle area and in other states. As soon as we began taking notes or if we asked too many questions, we were eyed with suspicion and then asked to leave. There are two reasons we changed our mind: (1) our Beautypedia subscribers kept asking us to re-review this brand, and (2) a Merle Norman employee agreed to help us obtain the information we need, as long as she remained anonymous. We wish to extend a sincere thanks to the woman who sent us dozens upon dozens of samples and helped us compile all of the accurate information that made these reviews possible.

Please note: These product prices are in U.S. dollars, and for reasons unknown Merle Norman products are substantially more expensive in Canadian boutiques. Please be aware when shopping that these ratings are a reflection of U.S. prices only.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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