10.05.2012
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MyChelle Dermaceuticals
Supreme Polypeptide Cream, Unscented
Rating
1.2 fl. oz. for $53.39
Category:Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:10.05.2012
Jar Packaging:Yes
Tested on animals:No
Overview
If this is MyChelle’s supreme moisturizer, then why do they sell so many others with varying degrees of antiwrinkle claims? This is described as an “unsurpassed wrinkle defense nourishing cream,” so wouldn’t you think the company should stop selling all of their other antiwrinkle products, or at least put a disclaimer on them that says “These don’t work as well as our Supreme one”? As it turns out, this isn’t supreme in the least. This moisturizer is quite similar to the many other emollient options MyChelle offers. It contains several antioxidants and a cell-communicating ingredient, but these air-sensitive ingredients won’t remain stable in the jar packaging (see below). Supreme Polypeptide Cream earns its Poor rating due to the presence of several irritating fragrant oils that work against skin looking and acting younger. Last, the unscented claim is bogus because the formula contains fragrant oils, including lavender, which is very damaging despite its relaxing aroma. The fact that it’s packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818-829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271-288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314-321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197-203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1-32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).
Claims
Supreme Polypeptide Cream is an unsurpassed wrinkle defense nourishing cream with powerful antioxidants and organic oils combined with cutting edge peptides to support the skins structural integrity. This cream is the ultimate in combining organic ingredients with dermaceutical grade peptides to smooth fine lines while softening deeper ones. It also strengthens the dermal epidermal junction (DEJ) supporting a firmer texture.
Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Coconut), Glycerin (Vegetable), Squalane (Olives), Cetearyl Olivate (Olive Oil), Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Polysorbate 60 (Plant), Rosa Canina (Rose Hip) Fruit Oil, Sorbitan Olivate (Olive Oil), C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Pisum Sativum (Pea Peptide) Extract (Proteasyl® TP), Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (Syn®-Coll), Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 (Matrixyl® synthe’6™), Hydrolyzed Collagen (Marine Oligopeptides), Hydrolzyed Rice (Peptide) Protein, rh-Oligopeptide-1 (Epidermal Growth Factor), Cassia Angustifolia (Indian Senna) Seed Polysaccharide, Totarol, Astaxanthin (BioAstin®), Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Polygonum Cuspidatum (Giant Knotweed/Resveratrol) Extract, Honey (Mel), Phospholipids (Plant), Sphingolipids (Plant), Sodium Hyaluronate (L) (Hyaluronic Acid), Lecithin, Tocotrienols, Tocopherol (D-Alpha), Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Glucosamine HCI (D) (Chinese Foxglove), Cananga Odorata (Ylang Ylang) Flower Oil, Boswellia Carterii (Frankincense) Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Xanthan Gum (Fermented Sugar), Hydroxyprophyl Cyclodextrin, Alcohol Denatured (Grain), Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Oil, Phenethyl Alcohol (Rose), Caprylyl Glycol (Coconut), Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (Green & Biodegradable), Potassium Sorbate (Salt), Citric Acid
Brand Overview

MyChelle At-A-Glance

Strengths: MyChelle provides complete ingredient lists on their Web site; one good sunscreen for sensitive skin; sheer coverage stick foundation for dry skin.

Weaknesses: A natural product line that overemphasizes what their products don't contain yet offers no conclusive proof that their list of allegedly bad ingredients is harmful; almost every product contains one or more irritating ingredients (most notably lavender oil); ineffective routines for improving acne and skin discolorations; only one sunscreen and no facial sunscreen is recommended for any of the daytime routines; no pH-correct AHA or BHA products; jar packaging; most of the makeup is difficult to blend due to its high wax and oil content; no makeup options for oily or blemish-prone skin.

Colorado-based MyChelle is sold in many health food, specialty supplement and vitamin shops, and spas. It was started by Myra Michelle Eby, an entrepreneur whose background includes years working in the natural products industry. Eby's background was mostly in sales and she translated that talent into creating MyChelle.

Like many lines that heavily emphasize natural ingredients, MyChelle spurns synthetic ingredients as always being bad or toxic. The company's catalog provides an ingredient dictionary that glorifies every natural ingredient they use as having multiple benefits for skin, but it leaves out any of the negative research proving that many plant (i.e., natural) extracts can have a negative effect on skin. Once again consumers are being fed a pipe dream that a natural product is the answer to their skin-care concerns. Depending on the MyChelle product you choose, you could be putting your skin at considerable risk for irritation, free-radical damage, and potentially phototoxic reactions when skin is exposed to sunlight. As is often the case with new skin-care companies promising the world, MyChelle has over a dozen moisturizers and serums proclaiming their lifting antiwrinkle properties, but it sells only one sunscreen, which they identify as being for the body not the face. None of that adds up to great skin care.

Ironically, while MyChelle products have lots of missteps, many of the products also contain several proven beneficial ingredients for skin alongside the irritating ones. Antioxidants, retinol, peptides, and skin-identical ingredients are often included, but when these great ingredients are mixed with ingredients that cause irritation, destroy skin cells, and cause collagen breakdown, they are fighting an uphill battle to provide your skin with any benefit.

Please don't misunderstand: we're all for natural as long as it doesn't make matters worse for skin, but that's simply not the case with the majority of products in this line. As for the "Dermaceuticals" portion of the name, well, that's just one more meaningless marketing term to look past, as there is nothing dermatologic or pharmaceutical about any of these products.

For more information about MyChelle Dermaceuticals, call (800) 447-2076 or visit www.mychelle.com.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula Begoun herself.

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