Tested on animals:No
Journee Bio-Restorative Day Cream SPF 30 is a fragrance-free daytime moisturizer with an in-part mineral sunscreen that’s best for those with normal to dry skin. Packaged in a pump-style container, it contains an OK, but not remarkable, blend of a few antioxidants, fatty acids, and thickening agents. The most incredible part of this formula is its price. That considerable expense begs the question: What exactly are you getting in return?
The sunscreen actives are octinoxate and zinc oxide—a duo that provides broad-spectrum coverage and a minimal white cast that fades almost immediately on application. It’s almost unnecessary, but Neocutis made this available in both a tinted and untinted alternative. The tint is fairly neutral, and would work well for most skin tones—but those with super-fair complexions may find it too dark.
We should note that if you decide to try Journee Bio-Restorative Day Cream SPF 30, you’ll need to be extra careful if ordering online. The tinted version isn’t clearly labeled as such—but one difference you likely will notice is that it’s $35 more (if you’re keeping track, that’s $175 for a 1-ounce bottle of sunscreen).
If we could comment on the price for a moment: We worry about super-expensive daytime moisturizers with sunscreen not working well enough. We’re not doubting the SPF rating; rather, we’re skeptical that the average person who spends this much is going to be good about applying this liberally every morning, which is essential to get the stated level of sun protection. Using this daily on the face and neck means you’ll be replacing this every six weeks, which adds up to over $1,200 per year, just for a daytime moisturizer with sunscreen!
Making the price even more of a sting is that there isn’t much in the way of anti-aging ingredients, only a smattering of antioxidants like green tea extract and vitamin C; that’s nice, but hardly $100+ nice. The marketing calls out Neocutis’ much-hyped PSP, or the trademark named “Processed Silk Proteins” blend used in many of its formulas. It’s not obvious in the ingredient list, but the actual ingredient name for “Processed Silk Proteins” is listed as cutaneous lysate, a blend of fetal cell proteins and amino acids. Despite the benefits attributed to it, there isn’t much research around its benefits for skin (check out the More Info section for additional details on Processed Silk Proteins).
Journee Bio-Restorative Day Cream SPF 30 earned an AVERAGE rating because, overall, it’s a truly unremarkable formula for the cost. Rather than splurge on a $140+ sunscreen that is outperformed by alternatives you can pick up at your local drugstore, consider any of the far more advanced options recommended on our list of Best Moisturizers with Sunscreen.
- Includes ingredients to help moisturize normal to dry skin.
- Broad-spectrum protection due to its in-part mineral sunscreen actives.
- Packaged to protect its ingredients from air and light.
- Expensive for what amounts to a standard sunscreen formula.
- Contains relatively few antioxidants or other beneficial anti-aging ingredients.
- The use of PSP, or “Processed Silk Proteins,” in skincare isn’t well-supported by research.
Processed Silk Proteins: “Processed Silk Proteins,” or PSP, is a blend of peptides, proteins, and other substances featured in many Neocutis products that they claim “….harnesses the power of human growth factors and cytokines.” You may have also heard that a component of this anti-aging blend is human fetal cell tissue—which is correct.
In 2006, a Swiss study published in Cell Transplantation found that biopsied fetal cell tissue could be used for tissue engineering—replacing elements of damaged tissue to aid in the healing process of injuries (Cell Transplantation, 2006). Those biopsied cells were stored in a cell bank, and today, Neocutis uses cell tissue grown from that original cell line; that is, no other fetuses have been biopsied for cells that are destined for use in the PSP blend in Neocutis products. Rather, they continue to grow cells in the lab from the original cell line.
Cellular reengineering of wounds does not translate into how Neocutis’ PSP blend is used in their skincare products—and there isn’t much research on this proprietary blend. What does exist regarding skincare application of the Neocutis PSP blend was conducted on a small group of 12 patients, and only four showed improvement (8% or less is hardly impressive) in collagen production (Journal of the Academy of Dermatology, 2008). There was no comparative data on how PSP performed against other well-researched ingredients such as vitamin C, green tea extract, resveratrol, retinol, or niacinamide.
The bottom line: While some of the proteins and amino acids that make up PSP do have some benefit for skin, it’s minor in comparison to the benefits of well-researched alternatives that you’ll find in abundance in some products from other brands. There isn’t any reason to buy into the belief that PSP is the “miracle” ingredient you’ve been waiting for, and the research certainly doesn’t support the claims made around its use in Neocutis skincare products. Remember, skincare is never as simple as one ingredient, however great (or seemingly great) it may be.