Ultra Moisturizing Face Cream, 10 PHA

by NeoStrata   
Price:
$38 - 1.4 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
11/29/2012
Jar Packaging:
No
pH:
3.50
Tested On Animals:
No

Ultra Moisturizing Face Cream, PHA 10 is an effective, though basic, PHA moisturizer that includes 10% gluconolactone formulated at a pH of 3.5, so exfoliation will occur. The fragrance-free formula is best for normal to dry skin; thanks to a packaging change from a jar to a tube, the small amount of antioxidants this product contains will remain stable during use. Still, for what this costs you should expect a better formula with a broader range of beneficial ingredients.

This ultra moisturizing cream is formulated with 10% PHA (gluconolactone) to moisturize and reduce the visible signs of aging on the face and neck. Skin will appear softer, smoother and more radiant with continued use.

Water, Gluconolactone, Butylene Glycol, Isocetyl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isododecane, Triethanolamine, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Diisostearyl Malate, Arginine, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Tocopheryl (Vitamin E) Acetate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Steareth-2, Xanthan Gum, Disodium Edta, Methylparaben, Chlorphenesin, Propylparaben

Exfoliation is the name of the game for this line! The original NeoStrata and Exuviance brands were created by Drs. Eugene Van Scott and Ruey Yu, the two researchers who own the original patent (actually, they hold over 80 patents) for the use of glycolic acid (AHA) in relation to its ability to diminish wrinkles, among other capabilities. Few lines offer reliable and effective formulations for exfoliation, so those that do deserve your attention. Well-formulated AHA products are those that have an effective concentration of AHAs and a base with an acidic pH that allows them to have maximum benefit. The exfoliation that AHAs provide reduces the thickness of the skin's outer layer, helping skin to quickly look smoother and feel softer, which in turn can solve many skin problems, including dryness, blemishes, sun damage, and skin discolorations. A good deal of research also shows that AHAs can help increase the thickness of the underlying layers of skin, improve skin structure, increase collagen production, and allow penetration of other skin-care ingredients. Moreover, NeoStrata is one of the only companies to sell a range of reliable sunscreens that also contain effective AHA formulations.

Both the Exuviance (Exuviance products are reviewed separately), NeoCeuticals and NeoStrata lines contain glycolic acid (AHA), but even more of these products contain a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) called gluconolactone (also patented by Scott and Yu), and for which similar claims are made. Gluconolactone is supposed to be gentler and longer acting than glycolic acid, and its delayed penetration is attributed to its larger molecular size. However, according to an article in Cosmetic Dermatology (July 1998), the skin can't tell the difference between the various effective AHAs, and the possibility of gluconolactone staying on the surface of skin longer than other AHAs did not prove out. So in terms of exfoliation and potential side effects, PHA ends up being as good as AHA. Gluconolactone may be slightly less irritating for some skin types, but this isn't quite the magic bullet for exfoliation NeoStrata claims, though it does indeed work when properly formulated (but so do glycolic and lactic acids). Another PHA NeoStrata uses is lactobionic acid. However, there is no definitive, published research establishing it as an effective alternative to (or partner for) other AHAs or BHA.

Beyond the numerous products that exfoliate (which is NeoStrata's main selling point) there's not much to get excited about, especially for what the company is charging. And it's upsetting that a dermatologist-driven, physician-sold line still has weak spots such as the occasional inclusion of irritating ingredients with no established benefit for skin and, believe it or not, a sunscreen that leaves skin vulnerable to UVA damage. NeoStrata has their act together when it comes to AHAs and PHA, but that tunnel vision has, in some respects, kept them from branching out to offer a better assortment of state-of-the-art products.

For more information about NeoStrata, call (800) 225-9411 or visit www.neostrata.com.

Note: NeoStrata's range of products is advertised as being available only through physicians. However, the entire selection is available for purchase online. The Exuviance brand is sold in select department stores and specialty beauty boutiques such as Ulta.

Caution: Keep in mind that skin needs only one reliable exfoliant at a time. NeoStrata sells so many good ones, you may be tempted to double (or triple) up, but doing so can backfire and be more irritating than helpful.

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Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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