Intensive Recovery Complex

by Nia24   
Price:
$110 - 1.7 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
3/17/2011
Jar Packaging:
Yes
Tested On Animals:
No

There are many skin-beneficial ingredients in this fragrance-free moisturizer, but it isn’t an intensive way to firm, tighten, or tone skin. However, it supplies skin with an appreciable amount of myristyl nicotinate, Nia24’s showcased form of niacinamide, along with a very good blend of emollients. Lesser but still effective amounts of skin-identical substances and cell-communicating ingredients are also on hand, making this a compelling formula for dry to very dry skin. The major shortcoming is the jar packaging, because it won’t help keep most of the state-of-the-art ingredients stable during use.

Another shortcoming is the guarana extract. Guarana is a plant that has more than double the caffeine content of coffee beans and its constricting properties can be irritating to skin. The amount of guarana in this moisturizer is relatively low, so any negative effect would likely be minor, but it’s still not an ingredient you want to see in a moisturizer.

If you’re considering Intensive Recovery Complex to see what niacinamide can do for your skin, jar packaging isn’t an issue because this B vitamin is stable in the presence of light (Source: www.emedicine.com/derm/topic509.htm). However, given that the skin needs more than one ingredient to keep it healthy (just like your diet, one food source won’t keep your body healthy), you need all the good ingredients to be stable. Further, the price for this product is comparatively high, especially if the tipping point is its niacinamide content. If that’s the case, check out any of the niacinamide-containing products from Olay’s Total Effects, Regenerist, or Definity brands.

This rich cream delivers intensive moisturization and helps to activate skin's own regenerative powers. Ceramides, liposomes and peptides reinforce skin to firm, tighten and tone. Skin looks fuller and firmer by locking in multi-level moisture, while minimizing transepidermal water loss. Brighteners help to lift the appearance of discolorations and restore radiance. Powerful antioxidants protect against the damaging effects of free radicals.

Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Myristyl Nicotinate (Pro-Niacin), Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetracaprylate/Tetracaprate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Squalane (Olive Derived), Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Dimethicone, Tribehenin, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Ceramide-2, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Saccharide Isomerate, Isohexadecane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hexyldecanol, Ceramide 3, Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten, Ceratonia Siliqua (Locust Bean) Gum, Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract, Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Cola Nitida Seed Extract, Paullinia Cupana (Gurana) Seed Extract, Ilex Paraguariensis (Yerba Mate) Leaf Extract, Bisabolol, Phospholipids, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Polysorbate 80, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Kernel Extract, Xanthan Gum, BHT, Chlorphenesin, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben

As you may have guessed from this line's name, Nia24 is all about the B vitamin niacinamide. We have written about niacinamide extensively in the past, and without question it is one of many valuable ingredients for skin. Topical application of niacinamide has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content, and stimulate microcirculation in the dermis (Sources: British Journal of Dermatology, September 2000, pages 524–531; and Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, April 2004, page 88).

Niacinamide also has been shown, in studies from Procter & Gamble (whose Olay brand sells several niacinamide-rich products), to be an effective option for lightening sun-induced skin discolorations, both on its own and when combined with acetyl glucosamine (Sources: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2007, pages 20–26; and British Journal of Dermatology, July 2002, pages 20–31).

Nia24 is working hard to position itself as the superior, doctor-designed choice for those seeking niacinamide. To that end, the two physicians behind this brand (Dr. Myron Jacobson and Dr. Elaine Jacobson) tout their years of research on niacinamide and how this led to their development of a patented niacin molecule, which they have termed Pro-Niacin. Both of the Jacobsons have published some of their research on the Pro-Niacin ingredient, which is listed as myristyl nicotinate, but as it turns out, how it performs on skin isn't fundamentally different from how "regular" niacinamide functions.

Myristyl nicotinate is a derivative of nicotinic acid, a component of vitamin B3 (niacin). It isn't the same ingredient as niacinamide, but functions in nearly the same manner (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com). Just like niacinamide, there is research on myristyl nicotinate's ability to improve skin barrier function, mitigate signs of sun damage, and reduce the incidence of atopic dermatitis, commonly known as dry skin. Niacinamide and myristyl nicotinate are both compatible with several prescription drugs used to treat various skin conditions and are believed to enhance their efficacy and/or minimize the negative side effects. Myristyl nicotinate is stabilized to prevent the release of, or quick conversion to, nicotinic acid, which can cause facial flushing, particularly in those dealing with rosacea (Sources: Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, February 2007, pages 893–899; Drug Development and Industrial Pharmacy, November 2007, pages 1176–1182; and Experimental Dermatology, November 2007, pages 927–935, and June 2007, pages 490–499).

So why should consumers choose Nia24's patented version of niacinamide over other products (particularly those from Olay)? Well, according to the company, their version of niacinamide penetrates skin better than other forms. It stands to reason that getting niacinamide further into the skin means the benefits it provides will be that much greater. Of course, these allegedly enhanced benefits come with enhanced price tags. This isn't an affordable line by any stretch of the imagination, though at least most of the formulas are good.

We would love to see published, peer-reviewed research that compares the Pro-Niacin molecule with other forms of niacinamide, such as what Olay or the Estee Lauder companies use. Because such comparative research doesn't exist, you're left to take Nia24's word that their form of this B vitamin is the one to beat. We wouldn't bank on that, but on the other hand, the research on niacinamide in general is strong enough to support its use for a variety of skin concerns and conditions. Bottom line: Nia24 isn't the only game in town when it comes to niacinamide and its derivatives, and their claims of superiority aren't supported in peer-reviewed, published studies. You'll very likely see your skin improve from using Nia24 products, especially if you're dealing with an impaired skin barrier, dryness, and discolorations. However, you're just as likely to see the same benefits from using less expensive products that contain efficacious amounts of niacinamide. Although Nia24 deserves credit for not resting solely on niacinamide, the Nia24 products are also further proof that expensive products don't necessarily mean better or more effective products.

For more information about Nia24, call (866) 642-3963 or visit www.nia24.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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