Elastiderm Eye Gel is said to fill in the missing pieces of the anti-aging puzzle by improving elasticity, but if that’s true, then the same claim can be tagged onto almost any other gel-type moisturizer. This contains mostly water, slip agent, solvents, glycerin, thickener, film-forming agent, emollient, more thickeners, antioxidants, pH adjuster, talc, preservatives, and mineral pigments.
One of the antioxidants is a synthetic ingredient, malonic acid, which is a strong skin irritant when used in pure form. Dr. Obagi claims it is part of a mineral complex clinically proven to stimulate elastic production, but there only one limited study supporting this notion, and it wasn’t comparative (Source: Experimental Dermatology, March 2009, pages 205–211). In other words, the mineral complex appeared to help improve elastin in skin, but what about other ingredients that may have also had this benefit, such as retinol or vitamin C?
Fills in the missing piece of the anti-aging puzzle. Helps to improve elasticity for firmer, more youthful-looking skin. Provides light moisture for daytime use. Provides a visible reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Allows for the natural replenishment of Elastin and Collagen.
Water, Propylene Glycol, Isohexadecane, Isononyl Isononanoate, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Polysorbate 60, Xanthan Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Blueberry Fruit Extract, Malonic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Zinc Carbonate, Malachite, HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Silica, Talc, Alumina, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Titanium Dioxide, Mica, Iron Oxides
Dermatologist Zein E. Obagi is behind this line, which claims to be your skin's key to transformation. Choosing to focus on the skin issues that plague many aging adults (chiefly, skin discolorations from sun damage and other sources and wrinkles), Obagi offers a mixed bag of cosmetic and prescription products sold only through authorized physicians, plastic surgeons, and accredited medical spas. That exclusivity may increase this line's cache with consumers, but let me assure you that most of what's offered isn't all that exceptional—and what's available by prescription can be prescribed in other forms by any dermatologist, so you don't need to seek one that retails Obagi's products. The highlights of this line are actually the prescription products. Several options with 4% hydroquinone are available as well as two products with tretinoin. There is a significant amount of research demonstrating that 4% hydroquinone, especially when combined with tretinoin, has a high success rate for persons dealing with stubborn skin discolorations or the skin condition melasma (Sources: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2007, pages 36–39; Cutis, January 2005, pages 57–62, and March 2006, pages 177–184).
The skin-care products Obagi sells to support the prescription-only options are either standard or below-average formulas that are easily replaced by less expensive options from other lines. Beware: This is a line whose proponents are adamant about the products being used as a system, so expect pressure to purchase an entire routine rather than cherry-pick what you really need. Savvy shoppers will find some viable options from Obagi, including a very gentle, fragrance-free sunscreen for someone with sensitive skin.
One more point: Obagi is also "known" for his Blue Peel. This is a standard trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peel that has been performed by dermatologists and plastic surgeons for years; Obagi simply instructs the practitioner to mix the TCA with a blue-tinted base. TCA is used for peeling the face, neck, hands, and other exposed areas of the body. It causes fewer pigmentation problems than other doctor-only peels such as phenol, and is considered excellent for "spot" peeling specific areas. It also can be used for medium or light peeling, depending on the concentration and method of application. AHA and BHA peels are considered light peels, and are often done in a series of six. TCA peels are best for fine lines and can be somewhat more effective on deeper wrinkling, but they are performed only once every couple of years. Many of the dermatologists we spoke to believe that a TCA peel is a viable option for many skin types, despite consumers' fascination with AHA peels.
For more information about Obagi, call (800) 636-7546 or visit www.obagi.com.