Professional-C Serum 15% contains 15% vitamin C as L-ascorbic acid. The main ingredient (propylene glycol) is a penetration enhancer which means that the vitamin C is going to get further into your skin than it would if this were strictly a water base. However, this much and this type of vitamin C can be irritating, especially when combined with alcohol and fragrance, as is the case here. With any “active” ingredient, be it vitamin C, retinol, or glycolic acid, you don’t want to tip the scales in favor of irritation over benefits.
There are better ways for skin to enjoy the benefits of vitamin C than this, and in fact this serum ends up being a one-note product. Just like our bodies need more than one nutrient to remain healthy and vital, our skin needs a range of beneficial ingredients. One key ingredient, even when used in a seemingly impressive amount, just doesn’t cut it.
Note: This serum is dispensed via a dropper applicator. Although not the ideal method to dispense a serum that contains light- and air-sensitive ingredients, sometimes this type of packaging is necessary due to formulary requirements. When that’s the case, the goal is to keep the bottle opening as small as possible, the bottle should be opaque or specially coated to protect the contents from light, and you should use the serum up within three months of opening.
Obagi Professional-C Serum 15% is formulated with 15% L-ascorbic acid, the only form of vitamin C suitable for topical application. L-ascorbic acid reaches the deepest layers to the skin to provide superior antioxidant protection, defend against damaging UVA and UVB sun rays, contribute to collagen synthesis and help prevent premature signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles.
Propylene Glycol, Water, L-Ascorbic Acid, Alcohol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Fragrance
Dermatologist Zein E. Obagi is behind this line, which claims to be your skin's key to transformation. Choosing to focus on the skin issues that plague many aging adults (chiefly, skin discolorations from sun damage and other sources and wrinkles), Obagi offers a mixed bag of cosmetic and prescription products sold only through authorized physicians, plastic surgeons, and accredited medical spas. That exclusivity may increase this line's cache with consumers, but let me assure you that most of what's offered isn't all that exceptional—and what's available by prescription can be prescribed in other forms by any dermatologist, so you don't need to seek one that retails Obagi's products. The highlights of this line are actually the prescription products. Several options with 4% hydroquinone are available as well as two products with tretinoin. There is a significant amount of research demonstrating that 4% hydroquinone, especially when combined with tretinoin, has a high success rate for persons dealing with stubborn skin discolorations or the skin condition melasma (Sources: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2007, pages 36–39; Cutis, January 2005, pages 57–62, and March 2006, pages 177–184).
The skin-care products Obagi sells to support the prescription-only options are either standard or below-average formulas that are easily replaced by less expensive options from other lines. Beware: This is a line whose proponents are adamant about the products being used as a system, so expect pressure to purchase an entire routine rather than cherry-pick what you really need. Savvy shoppers will find some viable options from Obagi, including a very gentle, fragrance-free sunscreen for someone with sensitive skin.
One more point: Obagi is also "known" for his Blue Peel. This is a standard trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peel that has been performed by dermatologists and plastic surgeons for years; Obagi simply instructs the practitioner to mix the TCA with a blue-tinted base. TCA is used for peeling the face, neck, hands, and other exposed areas of the body. It causes fewer pigmentation problems than other doctor-only peels such as phenol, and is considered excellent for "spot" peeling specific areas. It also can be used for medium or light peeling, depending on the concentration and method of application. AHA and BHA peels are considered light peels, and are often done in a series of six. TCA peels are best for fine lines and can be somewhat more effective on deeper wrinkling, but they are performed only once every couple of years. Many of the dermatologists we spoke to believe that a TCA peel is a viable option for many skin types, despite consumers' fascination with AHA peels.
For more information about Obagi, call (800) 636-7546 or visit www.obagi.com.