This Regenerist product is being sold as a retinoid-like wrinkle reducer that's a relative bargain compared with those costing around $200. Well, duh! But before we discuss this product's formula, it's worth mentioning that prescription retinoid products (which this is not) don't need to cost $200. Generic tretinoin, the active ingredient in Retin-A and Renova, can be had for less than $70, possibly even cheaper if your health insurance covers it (some plans do).
Like all of the Regenerist moisturizers and serums, this product, whose core ingredients make it a moisturizer for normal to dry skin, contains a mix of glycerin, niacinamide, and silicone. It has a creamy yet lightweight lotion texture and requisite silkiness that's the hallmark of countless other moisturizers. The fragrance-free formula contains a small amount of green tea extract for an antioxidant boost, but niacinamide is clearly the star ingredient—and you don't have to spend this much to get an efficacious amount of this cell-communicating ingredient.
Playing a supporting role is the aforementioned retinoid, which is listed as retinyl propionate. This is the same vitamin A ingredient Olay touts in their pricier Pro-X products, so if you've been curious about those, Regenerist Intensive Repair Treatment is a less expensive alternative (but, in all fairness the Pro-X product with retinyl propionate, sold as Pro-X Deep Wrinkle Treatment, is a better formula). Retinyl propionate is a form of vitamin A that, according to limited research, the skin more readily converts to retinoic acid, which is what tretinoin (the active ingredient in some prescription retinoids) breaks down to in order to work. Whether it's worth considering over or is less irritating than retinol hasn't been proven, so for now it's just a potentially good twist on "regular" retinol.
This product is packaged to keep its light- and air-sensitive ingredients stable during use, which is great. Whether you want to give this a try is your call, but it's worth nothing there are many other moisturizers and serums with retinol that treat skin to a more varied range of beneficial ingredients than what's found here. Still, on balance, this is a good formula.
- Fragrance-free with a silky texture.
- Contains a form of retinol that appears to have anti-aging benefits.
- Niacinamide is a multi-functional ingredient that addresses multiple concerns.
- If you're looking for a product with retinol, there are others that contain a better range of anti-aging ingredients.
Reduces the look of wrinkles without the dryness of a retinoid costing around $200.
Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, PTFE, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Behenyl Alcohol, Titanium Dioxide, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyacrylamide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Carbomer, Retinyl Propionate, Laureth-7, DMDM Hydantoin, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, BHT
Olay offers a fairly large selection of skin-care products sold at drugstores and mass-market stores. Although Olay's products are not as diversified as Neutrogena's or as attractive as L'Oreal's, Olay has come a long way from its star product being a soft pink lotion designed to make skin younger (yet it was and is just a badly formulated product that was out of date almost from the moment it was launched). Today's Olay lineup for those concerned about staving off the effects of aging skin is impressive, comprising their Regenerist, and Total Effects lines. All of these (and several other Olay products) contain the B vitamin niacinamide. As you might expect, the claims made for it are inflated, but, as explained in the various reviews below, niacinamide is a very helpful ingredient for all skin types, capable of exerting multiple benefits. It isn't the best ingredient out there (no single ingredient has that title yet, and it's unlikely that just one ever will be) and as such doesn't deserve the prominence Olay gives it (a bit of variety would have been far better, such as a mix of antioxidants and skin-identical ingredients).
Olay's sales are expected to reach $4 billion annually in the next few years, and given their global presence in stores and constant advertising in magazines and on television, that's not surprising. Much of this advertising is focused on their best products, which is attention well deserved. Just to give you an idea of the expenditure involved for these ubiquitous ads, Olay spent over $50 million to promote Regenerist in 2003. The good news is that each new range of Olay products generally improves on what came before it, offering results that, while not as impressive as the claims, are noticeable in the mirror.
For its ongoing commitment to understanding consumers and formulating products that, while not perfect, definitely offer more proof than puffery, Olay deserves consideration by any savvy skin-care shopper. And it also deserves mention that Olay is one of the few lines in this book whose entire collection of products with sunscreens provides sufficient UVA protection! (Sources for the financial figures above: The Rose Sheet, July 10, 2006, page 5; September 11, 2006, page 4; and January 1, 2007, page 5).
Olay began 2009 with the launch of Pro-X, their most expensive products to date. Not only are these products considerably more expensive than any others from Olay, the packaging, color scheme, advertising campaign, and claims have all been turned up to "max" on the cosmetics marketing dial. The amount of hype and budget thrown at these products easily explains why our Beautypedia product request e-mail inbox has been inundated with requests for me to review these products!
Whenever something this sleek-looking and pricey debuts in the mass market, lots of consumers wonder whether the extra expense is worth it. They also want to know if Olay's "Professional" designation makes these products a cut above the numerous other products they sell, including those with similar claims.
It turns out we had the same question after surveying the ingredient lists for all of the Pro-X products: How are they different from those available in Olay's Total Effects and Regenerist? Supposedly, all of those other sub-brands also have the answer to improving the telltale signs of aging, from dryness and wrinkles to loss of luminosity and unwanted discolorations. In fact, the claims on the label of these three lines are virtually identical.
It is clear from the get go that there are far more similarities than differences among Definity, Regenerist and Pro-X. All of them contain niacinamide, the B vitamin that has almost single-handedly re-energized Olay as a formidable skin-care brand. One of the Pro-X products contains acetyl glucosamine, just like several from Definity, and many Pro-X products contain peptides, just as Regenerist products do. Why should someone consider Pro-X over those other lines?
Interestingly, the folks we spoke with at Procter & Gamble didn't have a clear answer either, which isn't surprising, at least not from a formula superiority standpoint. Rather, their explanation was all about a marketing decision. This "cosmeceutical" –oriented line is supposed to give women who think that a line that looks medical must be better even if it's available at the drugstore. Pro-X was also designed to appeal to women who typically seek professional skin-care products, meaning those that are sold or recommended by a dermatologist or cosmetic surgeon.
Of course there is no standardized definition for "professional skin care" and "cosmeceutical" is a bogus term. The dermatologists who consulted Olay about these new products are well-respected, but the formulas still come up short in terms of a cocktail of antioxidants and skin-identical ingredients that can repair damaged skin. As it turns out, despite the Alliance for Skin Care Innovation that Olay speaks of in their promotional materials for Pro-X, its creation had more to do with marketing than with bringing anything new to the cosmetics table.
Don't get me wrong: the Pro-X products have some commendable attributes and certainly offer multiple benefits for aging skin, but the truth is they're not different enough from Olay Regenerist or Definity products to warrant the higher price.
Pro-X's packaging is indeed sexier, the claims are more enticing, and the prices speak to a high-end consumer, but, to borrow a popular catchphrase from the 1980s, we were left wondering "Where's the beef?" The beef, as it were, is merely Olay creating products whose differences are much stronger from a marketing standpoint than from a formulary standpoint. That's not breakthrough news for your skin, and it's a fact that anyone considering Pro-X should know that other Olay products offer comparable benefits for less money. The only significant difference between Pro-X and Olay's other sub-brands is that Pro-X is fragrance-free; that's great, but you would think that leaving out an ingredient as opposed to adding one would lead to a price decrease rather than an increase. It's up to you if that point is enough to make the higher prices worthwhile.
For more information about Olay, owned by Procter & Gamble, call (800) 285-5170 or visit www.olay.com.