Olay

Olay At-A-Glance

Strengths: Inexpensive (mostly); several outstanding water-soluble cleansers and scrubs; boon for any consumer in love with cleansing cloths; good AHA exfoliant; all sunscreens include UVA-protecting ingredients; bountiful selection of state-of-the-art serums and some excellent moisturizers; some of the best products offer fragrance-free versions.

Weaknesses: Bar cleansers; no topical disinfectant for blemishes; random products contain menthol; more than a handful of dated moisturizers; jar packaging; several moisturizers with sunscreen don't offer skin much beyond basic sun protection; repetitive formulas within and between the sub-brands make this line confusing and tricky to shop.

Olay offers a fairly large selection of skin-care products sold at drugstores and mass-market stores. Although Olay's products are not as diversified as Neutrogena's or as attractive as L'Oreal's, Olay has come a long way from its star product being a soft pink lotion designed to make skin younger (yet it was and is just a badly formulated product that was out of date almost from the moment it was launched). Today's Olay lineup for those concerned about staving off the effects of aging skin is impressive, comprising their Regenerist, and Total Effects lines. All of these (and several other Olay products) contain the B vitamin niacinamide. As you might expect, the claims made for it are inflated, but, as explained in the various reviews below, niacinamide is a very helpful ingredient for all skin types, capable of exerting multiple benefits. It isn't the best ingredient out there (no single ingredient has that title yet, and it's unlikely that just one ever will be) and as such doesn't deserve the prominence Olay gives it (a bit of variety would have been far better, such as a mix of antioxidants and skin-identical ingredients).

Olay's sales are expected to reach $4 billion annually in the next few years, and given their global presence in stores and constant advertising in magazines and on television, that's not surprising. Much of this advertising is focused on their best products, which is attention well deserved. Just to give you an idea of the expenditure involved for these ubiquitous ads, Olay spent over $50 million to promote Regenerist in 2003. The good news is that each new range of Olay products generally improves on what came before it, offering results that, while not as impressive as the claims, are noticeable in the mirror.

For its ongoing commitment to understanding consumers and formulating products that, while not perfect, definitely offer more proof than puffery, Olay deserves consideration by any savvy skin-care shopper. And it also deserves mention that Olay is one of the few lines in this book whose entire collection of products with sunscreens provides sufficient UVA protection! (Sources for the financial figures above: The Rose Sheet, July 10, 2006, page 5; September 11, 2006, page 4; and January 1, 2007, page 5).

Olay began 2009 with the launch of Pro-X, their most expensive products to date. Not only are these products considerably more expensive than any others from Olay, the packaging, color scheme, advertising campaign, and claims have all been turned up to "max" on the cosmetics marketing dial. The amount of hype and budget thrown at these products easily explains why our Beautypedia product request e-mail inbox has been inundated with requests for me to review these products!

Whenever something this sleek-looking and pricey debuts in the mass market, lots of consumers wonder whether the extra expense is worth it. They also want to know if Olay's "Professional" designation makes these products a cut above the numerous other products they sell, including those with similar claims.

It turns out we had the same question after surveying the ingredient lists for all of the Pro-X products: How are they different from those available in Olay's Total Effects and Regenerist? Supposedly, all of those other sub-brands also have the answer to improving the telltale signs of aging, from dryness and wrinkles to loss of luminosity and unwanted discolorations. In fact, the claims on the label of these three lines are virtually identical.

It is clear from the get go that there are far more similarities than differences among Definity, Regenerist and Pro-X. All of them contain niacinamide, the B vitamin that has almost single-handedly re-energized Olay as a formidable skin-care brand. One of the Pro-X products contains acetyl glucosamine, just like several from Definity, and many Pro-X products contain peptides, just as Regenerist products do. Why should someone consider Pro-X over those other lines?

Interestingly, the folks we spoke with at Procter & Gamble didn't have a clear answer either, which isn't surprising, at least not from a formula superiority standpoint. Rather, their explanation was all about a marketing decision. This "cosmeceutical" –oriented line is supposed to give women who think that a line that looks medical must be better even if it's available at the drugstore. Pro-X was also designed to appeal to women who typically seek professional skin-care products, meaning those that are sold or recommended by a dermatologist or cosmetic surgeon.

Of course there is no standardized definition for "professional skin care" and "cosmeceutical" is a bogus term. The dermatologists who consulted Olay about these new products are well-respected, but the formulas still come up short in terms of a cocktail of antioxidants and skin-identical ingredients that can repair damaged skin. As it turns out, despite the Alliance for Skin Care Innovation that Olay speaks of in their promotional materials for Pro-X, its creation had more to do with marketing than with bringing anything new to the cosmetics table.

Don't get me wrong: the Pro-X products have some commendable attributes and certainly offer multiple benefits for aging skin, but the truth is they're not different enough from Olay Regenerist or Definity products to warrant the higher price.

Pro-X's packaging is indeed sexier, the claims are more enticing, and the prices speak to a high-end consumer, but, to borrow a popular catchphrase from the 1980s, we were left wondering "Where's the beef?" The beef, as it were, is merely Olay creating products whose differences are much stronger from a marketing standpoint than from a formulary standpoint. That's not breakthrough news for your skin, and it's a fact that anyone considering Pro-X should know that other Olay products offer comparable benefits for less money. The only significant difference between Pro-X and Olay's other sub-brands is that Pro-X is fragrance-free; that's great, but you would think that leaving out an ingredient as opposed to adding one would lead to a price decrease rather than an increase. It's up to you if that point is enough to make the higher prices worthwhile.

For more information about Olay, owned by Procter & Gamble, call (800) 285-5170 or visit www.olay.com.

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+ Rating Product Brand Category Price Size
Best Regenerist Night Resurfacing Elixir Olay AHAs  $29.99 1.70 fl. oz.
Average Fresh Effects BB Cream Skin Perfecting Tinted Moisturizer SPF 15 Olay BB Cream  $14.99 2.50 fl. oz.
Best Total Effects 7-in-1 Anti-Aging Body Lotion Olay Body Lotions/ Creams/Balms/Butters  $7.49 13.50 fl. oz.
Good Quench Body Lotion, Ultra Moisture (Discontinued) Olay
- Quench
Body Lotions/ Creams/Balms/Butters  $8.79 11.80 fl. oz.
Best Ultra Moisture Lotion with Shea Butter Olay Body Lotions/ Creams/Balms/Butters  $7.99 11.80 fl. oz.
Good Quench Daily Lotion with Vitamins E & B3 (Discontinued) Olay
- Quench
Body Lotions/ Creams/Balms/Butters  $5.49 11.80 fl. oz.
Best Quench Daily Lotion Plus Shimmer, with Cocoa Butter Olay
- Quench
Body Lotions/ Creams/Balms/Butters  $5.99 11.80 fl. oz.
Poor Silky Berry Cleansing Body Wash Olay Body Soaps/Washes  $6.99 18.00 fl. oz.
Good Sensitive Body Wash Unscented Olay Body Soaps/Washes  $5.49 24.00 fl. oz.
Average Total Effects 7-in-1 Advanced Anti-Aging Exfoliate & Replenish Body Wash Olay Body Soaps/Washes  $8.49 15.20 fl. oz.
Good Quench Body Wash Olay
- Quench
Body Soaps/Washes  $7.69 23.60 fl. oz.
Average Total Effects 7-in-1 Advanced Anti-Aging Deep Penetrating Moisture Body Wash Olay Body Soaps/Washes  $8.49 15.20 fl. oz.
Poor Olay Ultra Moisture with Shea Butter (Bar) Olay Body Soaps/Washes  $6.99 4.00 bars
Good Tone-Brightening + Advanced Moisture Body Wash Olay Body Soaps/Washes  $6.99 18.00 fl. oz.
Poor Olay Body Spa Exfoliating Bar with Micro Beads (Discontinued) Olay Body Soaps/Washes  $5.99 4.00 bars
Good Olay Body Wash Plus Body Butter Ribbons Olay Body Soaps/Washes  $6.99 10.00 fl. oz.
Poor Sheer Moisture Bar Olay Body Soaps/Washes  $6.99 6.00 bars
Good Olay Body Wash Age Defying Olay Body Soaps/Washes  $6.99 23.60 fl. oz.
Poor Age Defying Moisturizing Bar Olay Body Soaps/Washes  $6.99 4.00 bars
Average Quench Moisturizing Bar (Discontinued) Olay
- Quench
Body Soaps/Washes  $6.99 4.25 fl. oz.
Good Ultra Moisture Body Wash Olay Body Soaps/Washes  $7.79 23.60 fl. oz.
Good Pro-X Exfoliating Renewal Cleanser Olay
- Pro-X
Cleansers/Soaps  $17.99 6.00 fl. oz.
Good Complete Ageless Rejuvenating Lathering Cleanser (Discontinued) Olay Cleansers/Soaps  $8.99 6.50 fl. oz.
Poor Ultra Moisture Bar Olay Cleansers/Soaps  $7.99 6.00 bars
Best Foaming Face Wash, for Sensitive Skin Olay Cleansers/Soaps  $4.99 7.00 fl. oz.
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