Origins' Smarty Plants CC SPF 20 has a clever name, but, like so many Origins products, that's about the only good thing it has going for it!
Now, before we lay out the details of this CC cream, you should know the difference between CC creams and BB creams: Basically, it's all marketing. Generally, BB creams from U.S. cosmetics brands are similar to tinted moisturizers, whereas BB creams from Asia are generally thicker and have a high SPF rating. CC creams are more like liquid foundations, but not always. BB and CC creams typically provide sun protection and may or may not include beneficial ingredients like antioxidants or skin-lightening agents. Neither BB nor CC creams are as revolutionary as they are made out to be, and there is certainly no consistency among products from different brands. We know, we know … it's completely confusing, but there you have it.
As far as performance goes, Smarty Plants is very easy to blend and provides sheer to medium coverage with a demi-matte finish. It won't hide major flaws, but it does help even out skin tone and diminish redness. It doesn't settle into fine lines or emphasize pores, and it does provide sun protection. But this CC cream falls woefully short for one big reason: the inclusion of several fragrant plant oils that pose a risk for skin irritation! See More Info for details on why daily use of highly fragrant products is a bad idea.
Origins claims that the antioxidants in this CC cream can neutralize skin damage from city smog and pollution, but that claim is disingenuous because all of the antioxidants are listed after such ingredients as bergamot oil, lemon peel oil, orange peel oil, and camphor bark oil. Although the latter ingredients offer an antioxidant boost, they also can be pro-aging because they are irritating, which has exactly the opposite effect on your skin that Origins says this product is supposed to have! Better to choose antioxidants that provide benefits without the risks of irritation that the fragrant ones present!
Smarty Plants isn't smart at all when it comes to being good to your skin. This comes in two shades, Light/Medium, which is natural-looking on its intended skin tone, and Medium/Deep, which is too orange to appear natural on its intended skin tone.
Last but not least, the active ingredients in this product aren't capable of protecting skin from the full range of UVA rays, which means you're being shorted on anti-aging benefits! See More Info for details on what to look for in any SPF-rated product.
Steer clear of this one, and check out our list of Best Tinted Moisturizers/BB Creams/CC Creams for products that will treat your skin to some great ingredients without the risk of irritation!
- Blends into skin easily, providing natural sheer to medium coverage of minor flaws.
- Provides broad-spectrum sun protection.
- Contains a very high amount of fragrant plant oils known to be irritating.
- Doesn't provide good enough UVA protection, a critical need for anti-aging benefits.
- Contains more fragrance ingredients than beneficial antioxidants, and fragrance isn't skin care.
- One of the two shades is too orange to look natural on its intended skin tone.
Highly fragrant products: Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes chronic irritation that can damage healthy collagen production, lead to or worsen dryness, and impair your skin's ability to heal. Fragrance-free is the best way to go for all skin types. If fragrance in your skin-care products is important to you, it should be a very low amount to minimize the risk to your skin (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).
Insufficient UVA protection: This does not include the ingredients needed to shield your skin from the sun's entire range of damaging UVA rays, which is essential for anti-aging benefits. The sun's UVB rays are what cause sunburn, and the SPF number reflects that protection, but there is no rating for the sun's silent, though more penetrating (and in many ways more damaging), UVA rays. Any SPF-rated product should contain one or more of the following UVA-protecting ingredients listed as "active" to ensure you are getting UVA protection: avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Mexoryl SX (ecamsule), or Tinosorb (Sources: Photochemical and Photobiological Sciences, December 2011, pages 81–90; Cosmetic Dermatology, Second Edition, Baumann, Leslie MD, McGraw Hill, 2009, pages 246–252; American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, Supplement, 2009, pages 19–24; The Encyclopedia of Ultraviolet Filters, Shaath, Nadim A., Allured Publishing, 2007; and Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, and Photomedicine, October 2003, pages 242–253).
Active: Octinoxate 7.5%, Octisalate 4%, Oxybenzone 3.5%. Inactive: Water\Aqua\Eau, Trioctyldodecyl Citrate, Silica, Phenyl Trimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Pentylene Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Cinnamomum Camphora (Camphor) Bark Oil, Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Leaf Oil, Magnolia Acuminata Flower Extract, Iris Pallida Root Extract, Rosa Damascena Extract, Citral, Linalool, Limonene, Algae Extract, Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Sapindus Mukurossi Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract, Castanea Sativa (Chestnut) Seed Extract, Salicylic Acid, Cholesterol, Sucrose, Caffeine, Arginine, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycerin, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Isopropyl Myristate, Lecithin, Polyquaternium-51, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Urea, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Galactoarabinan, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Citric Acid, Phospholipids, Trehalose, Xanthan Gum, Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol. [+/- ]Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Mica.
Started in 1990, Origins was Estee Lauder's contribution to the (still going strong) demand for natural products. Their approach and claims all hinge on the wonder of plants and the allegedly miraculous properties they offer for skin, whether it be dry, sensitive, oily, or simply showing the effects of time. Here's the issue: Just as there are good and bad synthetic ingredients, there are good and bad natural ones. Ironically, Origins isn't all that "natural" because it uses its share of synthetic ingredients, and the plant extracts they do use include some that are bad for skin.
We have never been opposed to using natural ingredients. However, it lacks integrity when a company throws in any plant ingredient with no proven benefit for skin beyond anecdotal information, and then boasts about all sorts of improbable results. It becomes a far more serious issue when the natural ingredients in question have published research showing that they are in fact irritating or damaging to skin. That's the predicament of reviewing Origins' skin care products: almost every product they sell contains several volatile oils (another term for essential oils), all of which have their share of negative qualities when used on skin. In their attempt to appear more natural, Origins uses quite a bit of these offending ingredients, and they're often listed before the much more beneficial additives, such as antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and skin-identical ingredients.
You might be wondering why, if Origins has had such continued success, their products can be such a problem for skin? Can't women just use what they like? The answer is two-fold: yes women can use what they like, but often women like what isn't good for them. For example, smoking is bad for skin (and for your lungs), but lots of people smoke; getting a tan from the sun is bad for your skin, but lots of people spend time outdoors getting a tan; and using products that contain irritating ingredients is bad for your skin, and lots of products come to the table with these inconsistencies.
As we have explained in the introduction to the book, there is a litany of problems that take place when skin is irritated or inflamed, but fundamentally this results in the skin's immune system becoming impaired, collagenase (the breakdown of collagen) occurs, and the skin is stripped of its outer protective barrier. What is perhaps most shocking is that all of these damaging responses can be taking place underneath the skin and you won't even notice it on the surface. The clearest example of this is the significant and carcinogenic effect of the sun's "silent" UVA rays. You don't feel the penetration of these mutagenic rays, but they are taking a toll on your skin nonetheless (Sources: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2006, pages 30–38; International Journal of Toxicology, May-June 2006, pages 183–193;Skin Research and Technology; November 2001, pages 227–237; Dermatologic Therapy, January 2004, pages 16–25; American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, May 2004, pages 327–337; Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, November 2003, pages 663–669; Drugs, 2003 volume 63, issue 15, pages 1579–1596; Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, March 2002, pages 138–146; Cosmetics & Toiletries, November 2003, page 63; Global Cosmetics, February 2000, pages 46–49; and Contact Dermatitis, February 1995, pages 83–87).
Most of the Lauder companies really have their acts together when it comes to formulating state-of-the-art moisturizers, serums, and sunscreens that leave out the problematic plant extracts (and that represents a lot of products given the almost two dozen cosmetics companies under the Lauder corporate banner). Origins is the exception, and we encourage my readers who prefer to shop for skin care at the department store to explore the truly far better options from Clinique, Estee Lauder, Prescriptives, M.A.C., Bobbi Brown, or even La Mer. Even salon-styled Aveda, also owned by Lauder, with a natural theme similar to Origins, has less problematic formulas.
For more information about Origins, owned by Estee Lauder, call (800) 674-4467 or visit www.origins.com.
Compared to the makeup offered by almost all of the other Estee Lauder–owned lines, Origins falls short by virtue of including ingredients that align with its marketing image of offering natural ingredients that have the blessing of Mother Nature regardless of the risks they pose for skin. As omnipotent as Mom may be, this force of nature is a disaster waiting to happen. A secondary reason Origins isn't competing as well with its sister companies is that for many products (particularly the lipsticks, blush, and cleverly named but non-essential specialty products) the technology isn't as advanced. That lack of technological creativity combined with significant amounts of hostile essential oils will help you understand why we recommend exploring similar, but superior (and irritant-free), options from any of the other Lauder companies from Clinique to M.A.C.
If you're prone to being swayed by the promises of natural products (though Origins is not any more natural than many other lines, it just uses the most problematic plant extracts possible), there are a few outstanding gems to unearth here, and at prices that aren't unrealistic. Additionally, Origins' latest tester units, especially in their freestanding stores, are accessible and user-friendly. They include pull-out counters for added space and feature large mirrors. Combine this with a low-key yet helpful sales staff and knowing what to zero in on and you'll find shopping the best of Origins is a pleasure.