Neuropeptide Deep Wrinkle Serum

by Perricone MD Cosmeceuticals  Neuropeptide
Price:
$185 - 1 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Serums > Serums
Last Updated:
1/29/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

As Perricone continues to expand his Neuropeptide group of skin-care products it's good to know he at least improved the information he provides. In the launch of his first previous products with neuropeptides, he did not follow FDA ingredient regulations and simply listed "Neuropeptides" followed by a random number.

More of a lightweight moisturizer than a serum, this is yet another absurdly overpriced product from Dr. Perricone. With all of the neuropeptide products he sells, you’d think he would have a solid backdrop of research to support his claims. You would, however, be wrong: no such research exists, at least not from Dr. Perricone. This allegedly fast-acting “treatment” is supposed to make deep wrinkles a distant memory, but the ingredients it contains cannot do that. Doctors aren’t seeing less Botox and dermal filler work due to Perricone’s products, and by the time you read this he’ll likely have more anti-wrinkle products ready to capture your attention. It’s a huge embarrassment that Neuropeptide Deep Wrinkle Serum contains mostly water, slip agent, a glycol-based penetration enhancer, plant-based thickener, and preservative. For what this product costs, it should be brimming with proven ingredients to improve aging skin, but that’s not the case.

This contains the controversial ingredient DMAE. For more information about this ingredient, please refer to the Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary from the home page of this site. DMAE is not the anti-aging wonder lots of companies make it out to be, and may in fact do more harm than good.

The selection of peptide in this product have theoretical cell-communicating ability for skin, but there is no research showing they improve sagging skin or are capable of erasing deep wrinkles in any way. Neuropeptide Deep Wrinkle Serum is fragranced with rose oil, and its fragrance components can cause irritation, though the amount this contains isn’t likely to be a problem.

Note: This serum is dispensed via a dropper applicator. Although not the ideal method to dispense a serum that contains light- and air-sensitive ingredients, sometimes this type of packaging is necessary due to formulary requirements. When that’s the case, the goal is to keep the bottle opening as small as possible, the bottle should be opaque or specially coated to protect the contents from light, and you should use the serum up within three months of opening.

A fast-acting treatment that effectively minimizes the appearance of deep lines and wrinkles, addresses loss of elasticity, and creates a more youthful appearance. This age-fighting complex transforms the skin's texture with the help of four distinct peptides. It instantly smooths lines and wrinkles, helps improve the appearance of sagging skin with an immediate tightening effect, and enhances the complexion's overall health. Phospholipids contribute hydrating and reparative benefits.

Water, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Cellulose Gum, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethyl MEA (Dmae), Phosphatidylcholine, Glycolic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Steareth-20, Polysorbate 20, Sorbic Acid, Dipeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Pentapeptide-3, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

This dermatologist-developed line is perhaps the best known in an increasingly crowded field. The frenzy began with Nicholas Perricone's first book, The Wrinkle Cure, and continued when he appeared on PBS to discuss his book and namesake products, all of which seemed incredibly legitimate to consumers worried about how to look younger longer. PBS reaped a financial windfall from his appearance, netting millions of dollars between 2001 and 2002 (Source: www.quackwatch.org). Originally all the fuss centered around vitamin C and alpha lipoic acid, but as his success continued, Perricone wrote half a dozen more books and expanded his product line to include other over-hyped ingredients, each with claims (and price tags) more inflated than the last round.

We sourced the Web site Quackwatch.org because they have an excellent, unbiased report on the Perricone phenomenon. This non-profit site is operated by consumer advocate Dr. Stephen Barrett, and, to quote the Quackwatch Mission Statement, their purpose is "to combat health-related frauds, myths, fads, fallacies, and misconduct." That's where Perricone comes into play. According to Quackwatch, Perricone's books "contain many claims that are questionable, controversial, fanciful, unsupported by published evidence, or just plain wrong. Although he mentions standard skin-care treatments, sometimes favorably, his books provide little guidance about when they might be appropriate or sufficient. Although he provides long lists of references, practically none of them directly support what he promises." Those sentiments are exactly what we felt and wrote after reading The Wrinkle Cure.

The site goes on to state: "Perricone's books are sprinkled with statements that his ideas are based on his own research. However, the extent and quality of this research is unclear. A PubMed search for his name brought up only six citations, of which only two appear to be original research, both on topical glycolic acid. His books describe situations in which he tested various ideas in a few patients, usually over a short period of time, but he provides few details and apparently published none of those findings in medical journals." Does that sound like the kind of products you'd like to spend (a lot of) your money on?

They go on to conclude (and we agree completely with the following text): "Dr. Perricone has mixed a pinch of science with a gallon of imagination to create an elaborate, time-consuming, expensive, prescription for a healthy life and younger skin. There is no reason to think his program is more effective than standard measures. Although some of his advice is standard, most of his recommendations are based on speculation and fanciful interpretation of selected medical literature. He makes lots of money by convincing patients and consumers, but he hasn't succeeded in convincing critical thinkers, doctors, scientists, or anyone who wants to see hard evidence. Perricone's prescription isn't science; it's creative salesmanship." And which ingredient is the answer for healthy skin? Perricone can't seem to make up his mind, because one group of products contains alpha lipoic acid, another group olive oil, another vitamin C, and still another neuropeptides. Come on, doctor, which is it?

One ingredient Perricone uses deserves some discussion because it is present in all of his products, and that's dimethyl MEA, also known as DMAE (chemically 2-dimethyl-aminoethanol). DMAE has been around for years as an oral supplement that's popularly believed to improve mental alertness, much like Ginkgo biloba and coenzyme Q10. However, the research about DMAE does not show the same positive results as the other two supplements. Because DMAE is chemically similar to choline, DMAE is thought to stimulate production of acetylcholine. And because acetylcholine is a brain neurotransmitter, it's easy to see how it could be associated with brain function. However, only a handful of studies have looked at DMAE for that purpose and they have not been conclusive in the least, while some have shown that DMAE may be problematic or not very effective (Sources: Mechanisms of Aging and Development, February 1988, pages 129–138; Neuropharmacology, June 1989, pages, 557–561; European Neurology, 1991, pages 423–425; and European Journal of Medical Research, May 2003, pages 183–191).

How does any of this translate into skin care, or, more to the point, suppressing the signs of aging? Perricone claims DMAE restores muscle tone to skin that has lost firmness and has begun to slacken, as well as conveying an antioxidant benefit. Johnson & Johnson uses DMAE in a few of their Neutrogena products, and a study they paid for appeared in the American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (June 2005, pages 39–47). The conclusion was as follows: "the benefits of DMAE in dermatology include a potential anti-inflammatory effect and a documented increase in skin firmness with possible improvement in underlying facial muscle tone." The study examined topical application of 3% DMAE over a period of 16 weeks, but it was not done double-blind and was not placebo-controlled, which makes the results, at best, questionable. Moreover, the study didn't examine whether a 3% or lower concentration of other ingredients, such as green tea, glycolic acid, vitamin C, or myriad others (many of which Perricone has extolled in his other products, and the amount of DMAE he used varies widely from product to product), might have had the same or better results.

Is there any reason to get excited (and drain your pocketbook) for products with DMAE? Apparently not; a study published in The British Journal of Dermatology (May 2007) has shown contrary evidence that it may actually pose risks for the skin. In vitro tests of the pure substance, as well as creams that contained DMAE, demonstrated a fairly fast and significant increase in protective elements around the skin cell. However, a short time later the researchers observed an important reduction in cell growth and in some cases they found that it halted cell growth altogether. So, while you may initially experience a kind of swelling of the skin because of the expanding effect caused by topical application of DMAE, the long-term results appear to be far from desirable.

Interestingly, even though this ingredient is present throughout Perricone's line, he has yet to publish his own research discussing the claims and explaining how topical DMAE works. The bottom line is that as more research comes to light, DMAE may prove more problematic than helpful for aging skin. But in the meantime, Perricone is raking in lots of money by convincing consumers otherwise.

For more information about Perricone MD Cosmeceuticals call (888) 823-7837 or visit www.perriconemd.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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