This moisturizer’s big claim is that its camu camu ingredient contains thirty times more vitamin C than an orange, as if that’s supposed to be a compelling reason to buy it. First, even if camu camu does have more vitamin C than an orange (more on that in a moment), so what? Kiwi has more vitamin C than an orange, too, as do papaya, bell peppers, and strawberries. The numbers game may seem impressive, but the formula would be more impressive if it contained a form of pure, stabilized vitamin C rather than a plant extract that contains the vitamin. Depending on how the plant extract was cultivated and stored prior to manufacture, who knows how much vitamin C would remain? Interestingly, a study sought to find that out and even under ideal storage conditions the vitamin C content of this fruit degrades over time (Source: Archivos Latinamericanos de Nutricion, December 2000, pages 405–408).
As for camu-camu, this shrub bears a fruit whose vitamin C content is higher in the peel than it is in the pulp (fruit) yet Peter Thomas Roth is using the fruit rather than the pulp, which is odd considering their boasts of camu camu being a superior source of vitamin C. The fruit, which has a strong sour taste, can be considered a skin irritant due to the volatile components it contains, including limonene (which can make skin more sun-sensitive) and eucalyptol (Source: www.naturaldatabase.com). Despite this, research has shown that components in camu camu juice can have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefit when consumed (Source: Journal of Cardiology, October 2008, pages 127–132).
Ultimately, this moisturizer (packaged in an airless jar to protect the light- and air-sensitive ingredients) contains a frustrating mix of beneficial and potentially problematic ingredients. It’s almost as though for every good antioxidant such as superoxide dismutase there’s a questionable fragrant one, such as ginger, lemon, and fennel, and that’s not a helpful way to give your skin the best of this important group of ingredients. Peter Thomas Roth added some good cell-communicating ingredients, too, plus repairing fatty acids, making this ideal for dry skin showing signs of aging—but again, the formula’s drawbacks (and price) should give you pause.
- Contains plenty of anti-aging ingredients, from antioxidants to cell-communicating peptides.
- Creamy, smoothing texture feels great on dry skin.
- Airless jar packaging keeps key ingredients stable during use.
- Camu camu can be a skin irritant.
- Formula would be better with an appreciable amount of pure vitamin C rather than a fruit extract.
- Contains a frustrating mix of beneficial and potentially problematic plant extracts.
Powerful antioxidant camu camu, four potent antiaging peptides, intensive moisturizers, and vitamins A, D and E help improve collagen production, brighten, smooth, and firm the skin. Together, they improve the appearance of uneven skintone, fine lines, and wrinkles, deeply moisturize, and fight free radical attack, leaving a healthy, younger looking complexion.
Water, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Isocetyl Stearate, Panthenol, Cetyl Alcohol, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propylene Glycol Stearate, Rosa Canina Seed Extract, Linoleic Acid, Lanolin Oil, Oleic Acid, Dimethicone, Superoxide Dismustase, Myrciaria Dubia (Camu Camu) Fruit Extract, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Soluble Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Lactic Acid, Maleic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Fruit Extract, Algae Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Wheat Amino Acids, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Viola Tricolor Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Tartaric Acid, Tocopheryl Linoleate, Phospholipids, Bisabolol , Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 80, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA , Stearoxytrimethylsilane, Histidine HCI, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Potassium Sorbate, Carbomer, Lanolin Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Stearyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Alcohol, Fragrance
Unique in the world of spa and salon specialty lines, Peter Thomas Roth is a large but straightforward line with mostly uncomplicated formulations that, for the most part, are quite good and state-of-the-art. Unlike many product lines, most of the acne, AHA, BHA, sunscreen, and moisturizing products contain what they should to be effective and helpful for skin.
A novel aspect of this line is that there are few (if any) nonsense ingredients. Roth products conspicuously lack the exotic, potentially irritating, sensitizing, and often unnecessary plant extracts and the irritating, fragrant plant oils that show up in most pricey skin-care lines, especially spa lines. Many of these products don't have fragrance, and they lack the long lists of ingredients that are often unnecessarily complicated. Even more impressive are the well-formulated cleansers, sunscreens, AHA products, and skin lighteners. The moisturizers have improved somewhat, and most are now packaged so that the light- and air-sensitive ingredients remain stable. In fact, Roth's packaging deserves special mention because it is exceptionally utilitarian and gender-friendly. No pretty pink bottles, sexy curved jars, or bejeweled caps—all of which reinforce the clinical nature of Peter Thomas Roth. Overall, this line should be admired for its simplicity and, for the most part, for its well-thought-out formulations.
After all that glowing praise there are a few embarrassing missteps to avoid, such as products that contain hydrogen peroxide, which can cause free-radical damage and hurt skin; irritating acne products that contain sulfur; unimpressive masks (odd for a spa-oriented line); and a bumper crop of products claiming to affect expression lines and wrinkles in a manner similar to cosmetic corrective procedures.
For more information about Peter Thomas Roth, call (800) PTR-SKIN or visit www.peterthomasroth.com.