Peter Thomas Roth makes much ado about (almost) nothing with their Oilless Oil 100% Purified Squalane. While the marketing claims may make squalane seem as if it is a special ingredient, it's as unique as canola oil and from a formulator's viewpoint, no more interesting than dozens of other moisturizing agents.
Squalane is a hydrogenated version of squalene, the latter being the pure component found in plants and animal sources. Squalene is rather unstable, however, and thus squalane is nearly all you'll find in cosmetics (the process of hydrogenation creates the stable squalane). Knowing this, it's a given to say that squalane is purified, as you can't really have it any other way in cosmetic formulas, so Peter Thomas Roth doesn't have an edge here.
The brand makes it clear that the source of their squalane is sugarcane. Why they make such special emphasis on sugarcane isn't exactly clear, as this is no more sustainable than other common plant sources of squalane (like olives), which is the typical source. As long as the world continues to consume olive oil, you'll not need to be concerned with the availability of squalane (but honestly, would you really even consider squalane if Peter Thomas Roth wasn't trying to tell you how special it is?).
If it sounds as if we're being hard on this product, it isn't rated POOR because technically squalane is still a good moisturizing agent. It's just that it's no more special than adding plain olive or grapeseed oil to your moisturizer. It's true that squalane isn't technically "oil", but that differentiation is somewhat pedantic, because many emollients aren't technically oils, but still behave similarly (like jojoba oil isn't technically an oil, it's a wax).
Ultimately, this is just a good, ordinary moisturizing ingredient for dry to very dry skin—consider this (like any non-fragrant plant oil) a fine option to add to your routine for extra moisture. No big whoop.
One last thing, the non-comedogenic claim is rubbish. There isn't any truth to the belief that certain ingredients are incapable of causing breakouts (and the claim that other ingredients are 100% certain to do so). Much of this depends on how much of an ingredient is present in a formula, the overall combination of other ingredients in a product, and numerous external factors.
- Squalane is a good moisturizing ingredient for dry skin (like any non-fragrant oil, i.e. olive oil or almond oil, etc.).
- No more special than any other ordinary plant oil, like those you would find in your kitchen cupboard.
- Overpriced for such a simple ingredient.
- Non-comedogenic claims are pure marketing, like any emollient ingredient, squalane is capable of causing a breakout.
Oilless Oil 100% Purified Squalane is for anyone looking for all the benefits of an oil without leaving an oily or greasy after feel. It is lightweight, clear, and odorless. Oilless Oil is derived from farmed naturally-sourced sustainable sugarcane (not from sharks or olives). NON-COMEDOGENIC – will not cause breakouts.
Unique in the world of spa and salon specialty lines, Peter Thomas Roth is a large but straightforward line with mostly uncomplicated formulations that, for the most part, are quite good and state-of-the-art. Unlike many product lines, most of the acne, AHA, BHA, sunscreen, and moisturizing products contain what they should to be effective and helpful for skin.
A novel aspect of this line is that there are few (if any) nonsense ingredients. Roth products conspicuously lack the exotic, potentially irritating, sensitizing, and often unnecessary plant extracts and the irritating, fragrant plant oils that show up in most pricey skin-care lines, especially spa lines. Many of these products don't have fragrance, and they lack the long lists of ingredients that are often unnecessarily complicated. Even more impressive are the well-formulated cleansers, sunscreens, AHA products, and skin lighteners. The moisturizers have improved somewhat, and most are now packaged so that the light- and air-sensitive ingredients remain stable. In fact, Roth's packaging deserves special mention because it is exceptionally utilitarian and gender-friendly. No pretty pink bottles, sexy curved jars, or bejeweled caps—all of which reinforce the clinical nature of Peter Thomas Roth. Overall, this line should be admired for its simplicity and, for the most part, for its well-thought-out formulations.
After all that glowing praise there are a few embarrassing missteps to avoid, such as products that contain hydrogen peroxide, which can cause free-radical damage and hurt skin; irritating acne products that contain sulfur; unimpressive masks (odd for a spa-oriented line); and a bumper crop of products claiming to affect expression lines and wrinkles in a manner similar to cosmetic corrective procedures.
For more information about Peter Thomas Roth, call (800) PTR-SKIN or visit www.peterthomasroth.com.