Un-Wrinkle Creme

by Peter Thomas Roth   Un-Wrinkle
Price:
$110 - 1 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizers/Anti-Aging
Last Updated:
1/30/2013
Jar Packaging:
Yes
Tested On Animals:
Yes

What a great, simple name for an anti-aging moisturizer! And what a shame it’s packaged in a jar, which means several of the important ingredients will break down shortly after it’s opened (see More Info for details). Of course, as we’ve come to expect from Roth’s anti-aging products, the claims are, to put it nicely, over the top, and not in a good way.

This has a rich, creamy texture and includes several emollients to make dry skin look and feel better. It also contains several peptides, and those are among the ingredients Roth is referring to in the company’s mention of“Un-Wrinkle technology” that relaxes wrinkles. Supposedly, these and other anti-aging ingredients are combined at a seemingly impressive 29% concentration, but the poor choice of packaging wouldn’t keep these delicate ingredients stable even if it were a 100% concentration, so the claim looks good on paper only.

Even considering the number of anti-aging ingredients in this moisturizer, the 29% boast is still quite a ways off from what’s typically included in facial moisturizers (unless Roth is counting standard cosmetic ingredients like glyceryl stearate and cetyl alcohol). Regardless of the percentages and how the company did the math, the bottom line is that this moisturizer would’ve earned an enthusiastic recommendation were it not for its problematic packaging. Yes, it’s needlessly expensive, too, but in better packaging this kind of formula is one where over-spending wouldn’t be a waste.

Pros:
  • Contains numerous emollients coupled with antioxidants, cell-communicating peptides, and other anti-aging ingredients.
  • The combination of ingredients helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
Cons:
  • Expensive and incapable of relaxing expression lines or deep wrinkles.
  • Jar packaging means the most beneficial ingredients won’t remain stable during use.

More Info:

The fact that this neck and chest cream is packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you’re dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818–829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271–288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314–321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197–203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1–32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).

A moisturizer that uses Un-Wrinkle technology to target the appearance of deep wrinkles and expression lines. Powerful patent-pending blend of nine wrinkle relaxing and anti-aging peptides and neuropeptides highly concentrated at an unprecedented 29% are infused into this intensive moisturizing crème.

Water, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Isocetyl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Propylene Glycol Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate, Methylheptyl Isostearate, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-19, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyloyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phospholipids, Butylene Glycol, Triolein, Lecithin, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Linoleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Stearic Acid, Hydrogen Ated Lecithin, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer, Acrylates Copolymer, Dextran, Propylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Phenoxyethanol

Unique in the world of spa and salon specialty lines, Peter Thomas Roth is a large but straightforward line with mostly uncomplicated formulations that, for the most part, are quite good and state-of-the-art. Unlike many product lines, most of the acne, AHA, BHA, sunscreen, and moisturizing products contain what they should to be effective and helpful for skin.

A novel aspect of this line is that there are few (if any) nonsense ingredients. Roth products conspicuously lack the exotic, potentially irritating, sensitizing, and often unnecessary plant extracts and the irritating, fragrant plant oils that show up in most pricey skin-care lines, especially spa lines. Many of these products don't have fragrance, and they lack the long lists of ingredients that are often unnecessarily complicated. Even more impressive are the well-formulated cleansers, sunscreens, AHA products, and skin lighteners. The moisturizers have improved somewhat, and most are now packaged so that the light- and air-sensitive ingredients remain stable. In fact, Roth's packaging deserves special mention because it is exceptionally utilitarian and gender-friendly. No pretty pink bottles, sexy curved jars, or bejeweled caps—all of which reinforce the clinical nature of Peter Thomas Roth. Overall, this line should be admired for its simplicity and, for the most part, for its well-thought-out formulations.

After all that glowing praise there are a few embarrassing missteps to avoid, such as products that contain hydrogen peroxide, which can cause free-radical damage and hurt skin; irritating acne products that contain sulfur; unimpressive masks (odd for a spa-oriented line); and a bumper crop of products claiming to affect expression lines and wrinkles in a manner similar to cosmetic corrective procedures.

For more information about Peter Thomas Roth, call (800) PTR-SKIN or visit www.peterthomasroth.com.

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Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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