Tested on animals:Yes
Un-Wrinkle, for All Skin Types, is a rose-scented serum loaded with peptides in a proportion that the company claims tops out at 23%, therefore enabling this product make dramatic anti-wrinkle claims that might have you canceling that appointment for Botox or dermal fillers. Yet there is no research showing that higher concentrations of peptides can have an effect that matches (or even comes reasonably close to) what’s possible from these in-office procedures. Below are details about the key peptides in this product.
SYNr-AKE comes from Pentapharm, whose Web site describes it as a “peptide with an Age Killing Effect. Mimics the neuromuscular blocking properties of Waglerin 1, a polypeptide found in the venom of the snake Tropidolaemus wagleri.” This snake is a type of viper, and Waglerin-1 is a peptide (composed of 22 amino acids) that is derived and purified from the venom. There is information on how this peptide performs on neurons in the brain and on its relation to GABA (gamma amino butyric acid), a common ingredient in products claiming to work like Botox. However, information on how this ingredient works when blended into cosmetic products is lacking. Waglerin-1 is said to be another blocker of the neurotransmitter acetylcholine, which triggers muscle contractions. But if it worked as claimed, when applied topically it would relax muscles in your fingers, too, and what would happen if you used too much at once or accidentally got it too near the area around your eyes or mouth? (Sources: Journal of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics, July 1997, pages 74–80; and Brain Research, August 1999, pages 29–37).
The SNAP-8 peptide is said to targets the “wrinkle formation mechanism” in the same manner as Botox injections. Although there is no substantiated research to support that claim, keep in mind that not even Botox works like Botox when it’s applied topically. Fear the needle or not, if you want Botox to work it must be injected into, not dabbed on, your skin. SNAP-8 (technically acetyl octapeptide-3) is the trade name for an ingredient manufactured by Centerchem. Of course, the only efficacy studies performed for this peptide were conducted by the manufacturer, and done in vitro rather than on human skin (Source: www.centerchem.com/PDFs/SNAP-8%20Tech%20Lit%20Aug05.pdf).
What you need to keep in mind is to not get lost looking for high doses of peptides claiming to work like wrinkle-erasing or plumping procedures a dermatologist can provide. They do not and physiologically cannot work the same, or even close. Peptides are exciting anti-aging ingredients, just not capable of replacing in-office procedures regardless of the percentage a brand may tout.
The best reason to consider using this serum is not for its litany of peptides or antiwrinkle prowess (which it is most certainly lacking), but for its antioxidants and water-binding agents, all in stable packaging. This is a costly way to get those ingredients, but they nevertheless are the most substantiated, useful ingredients in this product.