Un-Wrinkle, for All Skin Types, is a rose-scented serum loaded with peptides in a proportion that the company claims tops out at 23%, therefore enabling this product make dramatic anti-wrinkle claims that might have you canceling that appointment for Botox or dermal fillers. Yet there is no research showing that higher concentrations of peptides can have an effect that matches (or even comes reasonably close to) what’s possible from these in-office procedures. Below are details about the key peptides in this product.
SYNr-AKE comes from Pentapharm, whose Web site describes it as a “peptide with an Age Killing Effect. Mimics the neuromuscular blocking properties of Waglerin 1, a polypeptide found in the venom of the snake Tropidolaemus wagleri.” This snake is a type of viper, and Waglerin-1 is a peptide (composed of 22 amino acids) that is derived and purified from the venom. There is information on how this peptide performs on neurons in the brain and on its relation to GABA (gamma amino butyric acid), a common ingredient in products claiming to work like Botox. However, information on how this ingredient works when blended into cosmetic products is lacking. Waglerin-1 is said to be another blocker of the neurotransmitter acetylcholine, which triggers muscle contractions. But if it worked as claimed, when applied topically it would relax muscles in your fingers, too, and what would happen if you used too much at once or accidentally got it too near the area around your eyes or mouth? (Sources: Journal of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics, July 1997, pages 74–80; and Brain Research, August 1999, pages 29–37).
The SNAP-8 peptide is said to targets the “wrinkle formation mechanism” in the same manner as Botox injections. Although there is no substantiated research to support that claim, keep in mind that not even Botox works like Botox when it’s applied topically. Fear the needle or not, if you want Botox to work it must be injected into, not dabbed on, your skin. SNAP-8 (technically acetyl octapeptide-3) is the trade name for an ingredient manufactured by Centerchem. Of course, the only efficacy studies performed for this peptide were conducted by the manufacturer, and done in vitro rather than on human skin (Source: www.centerchem.com/PDFs/SNAP-8%20Tech%20Lit%20Aug05.pdf).
What you need to keep in mind is to not get lost looking for high doses of peptides claiming to work like wrinkle-erasing or plumping procedures a dermatologist can provide. They do not and physiologically cannot work the same, or even close. Peptides are exciting anti-aging ingredients, just not capable of replacing in-office procedures regardless of the percentage a brand may tout.
The best reason to consider using this serum is not for its litany of peptides or antiwrinkle prowess (which it is most certainly lacking), but for its antioxidants and water-binding agents, all in stable packaging. This is a costly way to get those ingredients, but they nevertheless are the most substantiated, useful ingredients in this product.
Up to a 52% reduction in wrinkle size in just 28 days. Exclusive, patent-pending blend of six powerful, 100% active WRINKLE RELAXING and ANTI-AGING PEPTIDES (highly concentrated at 23%) are combined with vitamins and skin moisturizers to create this wrinkle fighting solution with the highest degree of effective ingredients found in clinical studies. Contains the two newest peptides; SYNr-AKE at 4% (synthetic peptide which mimics snake venom activity) and SNAP-8 at 10%, a safer, pain-free alternative to the injected Botulinum Toxin that topically helps target the same wrinkle formation mechanism. SYNr-COLL at 3%, Argireline at 3% and MatrixylT 3000 (a dual peptide) at 3% complete this patent pending blend of six peptides. Helps boost natural collagen production and leaves skin looking soft, smooth and years younger.
Water, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Squalane, PEG- 75, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Phospholipids, Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5), Sodium Hyaluronate, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Hydrogenated Soybean Oil, Xanthan Gum, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Polysorbate 20, Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride, Bisabolol, Oleth-2, Oleth-5, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Citral, Limonene, Citronellol, Red 33, Yellow 5
Unique in the world of spa and salon specialty lines, Peter Thomas Roth is a large but straightforward line with mostly uncomplicated formulations that, for the most part, are quite good and state-of-the-art. Unlike many product lines, most of the acne, AHA, BHA, sunscreen, and moisturizing products contain what they should to be effective and helpful for skin.
A novel aspect of this line is that there are few (if any) nonsense ingredients. Roth products conspicuously lack the exotic, potentially irritating, sensitizing, and often unnecessary plant extracts and the irritating, fragrant plant oils that show up in most pricey skin-care lines, especially spa lines. Many of these products don't have fragrance, and they lack the long lists of ingredients that are often unnecessarily complicated. Even more impressive are the well-formulated cleansers, sunscreens, AHA products, and skin lighteners. The moisturizers have improved somewhat, and most are now packaged so that the light- and air-sensitive ingredients remain stable. In fact, Roth's packaging deserves special mention because it is exceptionally utilitarian and gender-friendly. No pretty pink bottles, sexy curved jars, or bejeweled caps—all of which reinforce the clinical nature of Peter Thomas Roth. Overall, this line should be admired for its simplicity and, for the most part, for its well-thought-out formulations.
After all that glowing praise there are a few embarrassing missteps to avoid, such as products that contain hydrogen peroxide, which can cause free-radical damage and hurt skin; irritating acne products that contain sulfur; unimpressive masks (odd for a spa-oriented line); and a bumper crop of products claiming to affect expression lines and wrinkles in a manner similar to cosmetic corrective procedures.
For more information about Peter Thomas Roth, call (800) PTR-SKIN or visit www.peterthomasroth.com.