hope in a jar night

by philosophy  
Price:
$50 - 2 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
7/1/2014
Jar Packaging:
Yes
pH:
4.00
Tested On Animals:
Yes

Hope in a jar night is a good AHA exfoliant in a moisturizing base suitable for normal to dry skin. Its chief exfoliating ingredient is glycolic acid, and we suspect philosophy is using 3–5% of this tried-and-true anti-aging ingredient. Because the pH of the product is 4, the glycolic acid can function as an exfoliant.

The secondary exfoliant is a polyhydroxy acid known as gluconolactone. This works in a manner similar to AHAs such as glycolic acid, but is said to be less irritating. However, research hasn't shown a remarkable difference between the two.

The chief problem with hope in a jar night is what the name reveals: jar packaging. Although jar packaging won't impact the efficacy of the glycolic acid, it will hurt the efficacy of the light- and air-sensitive ingredients the formula contains (see More Info for details).

This product also contains fragrance and fragrance ingredients that pose a risk of irritation, which doesn't make this worth considering over the superior options on our list of Best AHA Exfoliants.

Pros:
  • Exfoliates skin with an effective amount of the AHA glycolic acid.
  • Contains good moisturizing ingredients.
Cons:
  • Expensive compared with superior AHA formulas.
  • Jar packaging won't keep several of the beneficial ingredients stable during use.
More Info:

The fact that it's packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you're dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818–829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271–288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314–321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197–203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1–32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).

hope in a jar night intense retexturing moisturizer features an innovative qusome delivery system that enhances efficacy, while limiting the potential for irritation.

Water, Isononyl Isononanoate, Propanediol, Glycolic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Arachidyl Alcohol, PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate, Squalane, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Arginine, Beta-Glucan, Allantoin, Gluconolactone, Sodium PCA, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 60, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Arachidyl Glucoside, Sodium Sulfite, Bisabolol, Sodium Metabisulfite, Calcium Gluconate, Fragrance, Chlorphenesin, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Farnesol, Linalool, Phenoxyethanol.

Believe in miracles. That's the "lifestyle" branding statement philosophy makes, which is an approach that is decidedly different from their former positioning, which encompassed family values and spirituality along with a dash of department-store élan and endearingly clever quips. The miracle angle may grab your attention, but the company is also quick to point out that its history is steeped in providing products to dermatologists and plastic surgeons worldwide (so, in addition to miracles, philosophy has a serious side, too). Although its heritage may have included providing clinically oriented products to doctors, we have yet to see or hear of any medical professional retailing philosophy products. And that's a good thing because, by and large, most of philosophy products are resounding disappointments. Moreover, several products, including almost all of their sunscreens, contain one or more known skin irritants. We would be extremely suspicious of a dermatologist or plastic surgeon who recommended such products to their patients, and even more so if they actually believed some of the more farfetched claims philosophy makes.

Interestingly, when you shop this line at department stores or at the cosmetics boutique Sephora, what you'll notice is the preponderance of food- and drink-scented bath products, all in vivid colors or cutely boxed for gift-giving. It seems that somewhere along the way, the company decided to promote these nose-appeal products while downplaying their more serious-minded, simply packaged skin care. Perhaps the body lotions and bubble baths have become philosophy's bread and butter. Given the hit-or-miss nature of their facial-care products, that's not surprising. Then again, they've also heavily promoted their anti-aging-themed Miracle Worker products...

So what's to like if you're into the vibe philosophy puts out? Well, this is still a line with some well-formulated staples, including an AHA product, some retinol options, and a handful of state-of-the-art moisturizers. The products that get the most promotion at the counter are the ones you should avoid, such as the at-home peels, scrubs, pads, and anti-acne products. However, the somewhat confusing, conflicting image philosophy presents shouldn't keep you from considering their best products—but it's not a lifestyle brand in the sense that using the entire line will somehow bring you a more joyful existence, or significantly improved skin. The philosophy line is now owned Coty, a cosmetics brand primarily known for their fragrances. Their acquisition of philosophy is their first major foray into a widely-distributed skin care brand.

For more information about philosophy, call (800) 568-3151 or visit www.philosophy.com.

Note: philosophy opts to use lowercase letters for every product they sell, so the listings below are simply following suit.

philosophy Makeup

Minimalism is a big theme among philosophy's dwindling, uneven range of makeup. Whereas the color options from this company used to be extensive, well-organized, and at times clever, what's lining the counter now needs help, in more ways than one. The major issue is the plethora of ordinary products that cost far too much for what they don't offer, which is innovation and, in almost every case, selection. The line shines brightest (pun intended) with its lip color offerings, though the best products in this category are counterbalanced by glosses or lip balms with needless irritants. If you're a fan of philosophy's skin-care products and are considering their makeup, you don't want to try to build a comprehensive color wardrobe with it. However, you'd be wise to explore the handful of pleasant surprises here, including an excellent bronzing lotion, foundation primer with sunscreen, and the multi-use makeup brush.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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