03.25.2015
0
3
the microdelivery triple-acid brightening peel
Rating
12 pads for $70
Category:Skin Care > Specialty Products > Specialty Skin Care Products
Last Updated:03.25.2015
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:Yes
Review Overview

This fragrance-free at-home peel includes 12 individual applications, each with a pre-soaked pad that’s packaged in its own pouch. You’re supposed to use one peel per week, so this should last up to three months. Although that makes the price seem reasonable, the formula is a problem. Not only is the amount of alcohol cause for concern (see More Info for details), but also this contains barely any exfoliating ingredients; really the only contender is mandelic acid, and the pH is not within range for it to exfoliate. The azelaic acid is a good “brightening” ingredient because it affects melanin (skin pigment) production, but it must be present in a far greater amount than it is in this peel for it to be effective. All told, this ends up being a waste of time and money, and, of course, there’s “zero downtime” because this doesn’t work even remotely like a doctor-administered facial peel.

Pros:

  • Fragrance-free.

Cons:

  • Expensive (and a waste of time) considering the lack of efficacy.
  • Amount of mandelic acid is too low to offer much exfoliating benefit, and the pH is not within range for it to work in this manner.
  • Contains enough alcohol to put skin at risk of irritation.

More Info

Alcohol in skin-care products causes dryness and free-radical damage, and impairs the skin’s ability to heal. The irritation it causes damages healthy collagen production and can stimulate oil production at the base of the pore, making oily skin worse (Sources: “Skin Care—From the Inside Out and Outside In,” Tufts Daily, April 1, 2002; eMedicine Journal, May 8, 2002, volume 3, number 5, www.emedicine.com; Cutis, February 2001, pages 25–27; Contact Dermatitis, January 1996, pages 12–16; and http://pubs.niaaa.nih.gov/publications/arh27-4/277-284.htm).

Claims

see brighter days ahead with the microdelivery triple-acid brightening peel, created to deliver superior results in one convenient step at home with zero downtime. the microdelivery triple-acid brightening peel features 12 individually-wrapped, pre-saturated chemical peel pads designed for weekly use to deliver advanced skin-brightening and anti-aging benefits. the triple-acid formula contains mandelic, phytic and azelaic acids that dissolve and sweep away dead skin cells to help improve skin tone, buffer the appearance of fine lines and enhance skin clarity. the pads also feature a skin-brightening technology that visibly reduces the appearance of dark spots and discoloration. after just 2 uses, skin is smoother and brighter.

Ingredients

Water, SD Alcohol 40B (Alcohol Denat.), Glycereth-7 Trimethyl Ether, Niacinamide, Mandelic Acid, PEG-8/SMDI Copolymer, Triethanolamine, Azelaic Acid, Phytic Acid, Bisabolol

Brand Overview

philosophy At-A-Glance

Strengths: Relatively inexpensive; some of the best products are fragrance-free; very good retinol products; selection of state-of-the-art moisturizers; innovative skin-lightening product.

Weaknesses: Irritating and/or drying cleansers; average to problematic scrubs; at-home peel kits far more gimmicky than helpful; several products contain lavender oil; several products include irritating essential oils; the majority of makeup items do not rise above average status.

Believe in miracles. That's the "lifestyle" branding statement philosophy makes, which is an approach that is decidedly different from their former positioning, which encompassed family values and spirituality along with a dash of department-store élan and endearingly clever quips. The miracle angle may grab your attention, but the company is also quick to point out that its history is steeped in providing products to dermatologists and plastic surgeons worldwide (so, in addition to miracles, philosophy has a serious side, too). Although its heritage may have included providing clinically oriented products to doctors, we have yet to see or hear of any medical professional retailing philosophy products. And that's a good thing because, by and large, most of philosophy products are resounding disappointments. Moreover, several products, including almost all of their sunscreens, contain one or more known skin irritants. We would be extremely suspicious of a dermatologist or plastic surgeon who recommended such products to their patients, and even more so if they actually believed some of the more farfetched claims philosophy makes.

Interestingly, when you shop this line at department stores or at the cosmetics boutique Sephora, what you'll notice is the preponderance of food- and drink-scented bath products, all in vivid colors or cutely boxed for gift-giving. It seems that somewhere along the way, the company decided to promote these nose-appeal products while downplaying their more serious-minded, simply packaged skin care. Perhaps the body lotions and bubble baths have become philosophy's bread and butter. Given the hit-or-miss nature of their facial-care products, that's not surprising. Then again, they've also heavily promoted their anti-aging-themed Miracle Worker products...

So what's to like if you're into the vibe philosophy puts out? Well, this is still a line with some well-formulated staples, including an AHA product, some retinol options, and a handful of state-of-the-art moisturizers. The products that get the most promotion at the counter are the ones you should avoid, such as the at-home peels, scrubs, pads, and anti-acne products. However, the somewhat confusing, conflicting image philosophy presents shouldn't keep you from considering their best products—but it's not a lifestyle brand in the sense that using the entire line will somehow bring you a more joyful existence, or significantly improved skin. The philosophy line is now owned Coty, a cosmetics brand primarily known for their fragrances. Their acquisition of philosophy is their first major foray into a widely-distributed skin care brand.

For more information about philosophy, call (800) 568-3151 or visit www.philosophy.com.

Note: philosophy opts to use lowercase letters for every product they sell, so the listings below are simply following suit.

philosophy Makeup

Minimalism is a big theme among philosophy's dwindling, uneven range of makeup. Whereas the color options from this company used to be extensive, well-organized, and at times clever, what's lining the counter now needs help, in more ways than one. The major issue is the plethora of ordinary products that cost far too much for what they don't offer, which is innovation and, in almost every case, selection. The line shines brightest (pun intended) with its lip color offerings, though the best products in this category are counterbalanced by glosses or lip balms with needless irritants. If you're a fan of philosophy's skin-care products and are considering their makeup, you don't want to try to build a comprehensive color wardrobe with it. However, you'd be wise to explore the handful of pleasant surprises here, including an excellent bronzing lotion, foundation primer with sunscreen, and the multi-use makeup brush.

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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