12.10.2014
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Hormonal Aging Ultra-Rich Restoring Day & Night Cream for Intense Dryness
Rating
1 fl. oz. for $21.95
Category:Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime)
Last Updated:12.10.2014
Jar Packaging:Yes
Tested on animals:No
Review Overview

The name for this emollient moisturizer is odd because hormones are only one element of the aging process. Although hormonal changes during and after menopause definitely lead to changes in skin, this product is only capable of addressing dryness, which could be from menopause or from any number of other factors. There's nothing special about this product for hormonally challenged skin, unless the only challenge you're dealing with is dryness.

Second, because this moisturizer doesn't contain sunscreen, it's not suitable as a day cream unless you're willing to apply a moisturizer with SPF over it.

Also disappointing are the jar packaging and the high amount of fragrance. See More Info to learn why both of these issues shouldn't be overlooked, as each impacts the health and appearance of your skin.

This claims to increase skin cell turnover (exfoliation), but it doesn't contain ingredients capable of doing that.

Rounding out our list of concerns is the inclusion of artificial coloring agents, which have no benefit for skin. Neither does the clover and wild yam extracts, which often appear in skin-care products claiming to combat "hormonal aging"—neither has research proving any value in this regard.

Pros:
  • Very rich cream will adequately address the needs of dry skin.
Cons:
  • Doesn't have any impact on hormonal aging unless your only concern in that regard is dryness.
  • Jar packaging won't keep the antioxidants this contains stable once opened.
  • High amount of fragrance poses a risk of irritation.
  • The artificial coloring agents are a truly unnecessary addition.
  • Cannot increase skin cell turnover rate.
More Info:

Jar Packaging: The fact that it's packaged in a jar means the beneficial ingredients won't remain stable once it is opened. All plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, and other state-of-the-art ingredients break down in the presence of air, so once a jar is opened and lets the air in, these important ingredients begin to deteriorate. Jars also are unsanitary because you're dipping your fingers into them with each use, adding bacteria, which further deteriorate the beneficial ingredients (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2007, pages 818-829; Ageing Research Reviews, December 2007, pages 271-288; Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314-321; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, June 12, 2005, pages 197-203; Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, January 2002, pages 1-32; International Society for Horticultural Science, www.actahort.org/members/showpdf?booknrarnr=778_5; Beautypackaging.com, and www.beautypackaging.com/articles/2007/03/airless-packaging.php).

Daily Use of Highly Fragrant Products: Daily use of products that contain a high amount of fragrance, whether the fragrant ingredients are synthetic or natural, causes chronic irritation that can damage healthy collagen production, lead to or worsen dryness, and impair your skin's ability to heal. Fragrance-free is the best way to go for all skin types. If fragrance in your skin-care products is important to you, it should be a very low amount to minimize the risk to your skin (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).

Claims
Concentrated cream delivers maximum moisture to intensely dry skin. Restores suppleness and minimizes wrinkles while encouraging cell turnover to improve skin texture and youthful radiance.
Ingredients
Water, Hydrogenated Didecene, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Oleyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parki (Shea) Butter, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Isododecane, Nylon-12, Fragrance, Trifoilum Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract, Dioscorea Villosa (Wild Yam) Root Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols, Hydrolyzed Millet, Vitex Agnus Castus Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polysorbate 60, Magnesium Silicate, Cyclodextrin, Hexyldecanol, Lecithin, Vegetable Oil, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Alcohol, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Triethanolamine, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Vitamin E Acetate, Tocopheryl, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Red 40, Ext. Violet 2.
Brand Overview

Physicians Formula At-A-Glance

Strengths: Inexpensive; almost all products fragrance-free; outstanding cleansers; pressed powder with broad-spectrum sunscreen; several bronzing powder options (primarily for fair to light skin tones); one of the only lines at the drugstore selling matte finish eyeshadows; the loose powder; most of the blushes; good liquid liner; excellent automatic brow pencil.

Weaknesses: Dated moisturizer formulas; several sunscreens lack sufficient UVA protection; jar packaging; several of the makeup products epitomize wasteful packaging; the shade selection for almost all the foundations and concealers is awful; tons of gimmicky products that don’t perform as well as you'd think but are eye-catching in their compacts; the lip color and lip plumper; mostly average to disappointing mascaras; the Organic Wear products either have undesirable textures or contain irritating ingredients.

There aren't really any doctors at Physicians Formula (the founder of the company was an allergist, Dr. Frank Crandell, but that was back in 1937), and no physicians currently sell or endorse it either. The company asserts that "The term hypoallergenic is more than just a cosmetic claim for Physicians Formula. It is the basis for every product that is created. Physicians Formula honors this claim through stringent product testing and quality control. In fact, Physicians Formula products are formulated without 132 known irritating ingredients still found in many cosmetics on the market today." While the line doesn't list the "132 known irritating ingredients" that they claim not to use, one of their newer products contains menthol, which serves no purpose for skin other than to cause irritation, and other products contain alcohol and witch hazel, which won't make any cosmetic chemist's or dermatologist's list of anti-irritants.

It's good that the skin-care products have been streamlined. There are some excellent makeup removers and a couple of gentle sunscreens whose sole active ingredient is titanium dioxide. Surveying this line in its entirety reveals that makeup is its major focus. However, as you'll see from the Physicians Formula makeup reviews below, things aren't exactly rosy there, either.

For more information about Physicians Formula, call (800) 227-0333 or visit www.physiciansformula.com.

Physicians Formula Makeup

Does this assortment of makeup products have what the doctor ordered? The enormous selection of makeup (no other line at the drugstore sells more individual pressed powders, concealers, or powder bronzers) has seen some noteworthy improvements in recent years, but far too much of it is still built on gimmicky premises or eye-catching graphics while performance and texture are given short shrift. And for a line where just about every product carries on about its goodness for sensitive skin and the non-comedogenic nature of its ingredients, they're not using anything that other companies aren't also using, not to mention that many of the ingredients that show up in these products (such as waxes and occlusive thickening agents) can absolutely clog pores.

Still, for a line with increased retail presence in major drugstores, you may be wondering just what to pay attention to, and the good news is that there are indeed some finds among all the mosaic powders and oddly packaged concealers. Physicians Formula has never done foundations and concealers well, and for the most part that still holds true today. Only one of their concealers is recommended, while the others are best described as dismal. The expansive powder category has several attractive options, including a pressed powder with sun protection and many worthwhile bronzing powders. You'll also find best beauty buys among the blushes and other key products, including the matte eyeshadows, felt-tip eyeliner, brow pencil, and a few of the mascaras. There isn't anything medical or extra-pure about Physicians Formula makeup, but if you know what to look for and are on a budget there are some products that any doctor concerned with the subject of beauty would appreciate!

Note: The shade range of this line does not cater to darker skin tones. In fact, for some products, only those with fair to light skin will find options.

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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