Benefiance Wrinkle Lifting Concentrate

by Shiseido  Benefiance
Price:
$63 - 1 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
2/7/2013
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

Benefiance Wrinkle Lifting Concentrate is sold with the promise of, what else, lifting wrinkles. But Shiseido goes on to claim that this product allows skin to resist future wrinkles, something that’s not possible without an effective sunscreen, which is absent here. The showcased ingredient in this product is chlorella extract. According to Shiseido, this reinforces the presence of a protein in skin that’s critical to halting the wrinkling process. But none of that is substantiated, and even if it were, there’s so little chlorella that your wrinkles wouldn’t even notice. Chlorella is an algae and, like almost all species of algae, can act as a water-binding agent and antioxidant on skin. A good question for Shiseido: If this ingredient is that important for stopping wrinkles, why isn’t it in every “antiwrinkle” product this line sells?

This product is chiefly a lightweight moisturizer that contains more alcohol than it does beneficial ingredients for skin. Several antioxidants appear, but they’re of little use when combined with the potentially drying and irritating effect of the alcohol and the lack of sunscreen. At best, this is a substandard moisturizer for slightly dry skin that has no positive effect on wrinkles—either past, present, or future.

Deep wrinkles, lifted. Future wrinkles, resisted. This intensive age defying treatment with Anti-Photowrinkle System addresses photo wrinkling-the process initiated by environmental factors such as UV rays-and prevents the future appearance of wrinkles.

Water, Pentaerythrityl Tetraoctanoate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Sd Alcohol 40-B, Xylitol, Dimethicone, Meadowfoam Seed Oil, Ammonium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-40 Castor Oil, Retinyl Acetate, Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate, Arginine Hcl, Ginseng Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, PPG-17, Behenyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Sunflower Seed Oil, BHT, Trisodium EDTA, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sorbitan Oleate, Alcohol, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Fragrance, Beta Carotene

Shiseido is one of the largest cosmetic companies in Japan, and the founder wants consumers worldwide to know that the brand he began is meant for all who seek beauty. Oddly enough, Shiseido (pronounced "she-say-doe"), whose products have a distinctly Japanese appearance and appeal, began in 1872 as Japan's first Western-style pharmacy. Its products have been sold in the United States for over 40 years, and it has become a nearly overwhelming product line. Although there are some respectable products, Shiseido's skin-care collection is far from a total approach to anything, unless your skin-care mantra is "it has to be average yet needlessly expensive and the routine has to include more products than any other line recommends."

A total approach to health and beauty would take into account all that has been learned to date about how skin functions, how it can repair itself, how it ages, and what it realistically takes for it to look, feel, and function at its best. Such an approach does not, however, involve cleansers with alkaline ingredients that cause skin to be unnecessarily dry, lackluster toners, or far too many products with alcohol; that can only harm the skin, which isn't beautiful in the least.

Shiseido doesn't have the issue of sun protection down yet, as witness a few of their sunscreens that still lack sufficient UVA protection - even though they participate in Japan's UVA-based PA rating system (explained in the Sun Products reviews below). And when it comes to state-of-the art essentials such as antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and substances that reinforce the structure of healthy skin, Shiseido typically comes up short. You'll hear (and read) much talk about the company's exclusive technologies, but terms like Bio-Regenerine, Phyto-Capsule Emulsification, Optimal Balance Network, and Deacti-Complex are meaningless without significant, proven ingredients to support each technology's alleged function. We're sure they are intended to make the products seem more advanced and special to consumers, but the proof is in the ingredient lists, and very few of Shiseido's lists fall under the category of impressive.

If anything, the numerous skin-care options presented here are merely average or really disappointing. Many of the moisturizers have luscious textures, but again, it takes more than a sensational feel to create exceptional products that have your skin's best interest (and best appearance) in mind.

One point of difference with this line is that Shiseido insists on regular facial massage. That means you'll find several facial massage creams, although most of them have traditional moisturizer formularies that differ little from what's seen throughout the lineup. Shiseido maintains that routine facial massage creates firmer skin that's less prone to sagging because the massage action tones the muscles, but that simply isn't true. The muscles of the face are among the most frequently used. Repetitive muscle movements are a prime cause of expression lines around the eyes, mouth, and on the forehead. Botox has become such a popular procedure because it selectively prevents these muscles from working, which smoothes creases and lines. Massage alone cannot do that; if anything, routine facial massage can encourage lines and sagging by stretching the skin. Furthermore, when skin slackens and sags, it involves more than just the muscles. Sun damage plays a role in collagen and elastin destruction, as does gravity, which causes fat pads beneath the skin to slip. And then there's bone loss, and the fact that, as we age, skin continues to grow (yet has less to hold on to). Massage to repair sun damage—give me a break!

For more information about Shiseido, visit www.shiseido.com.

Shiseido Makeup

Although Shiseido is known more for their seemingly endless array of skin-care products, their makeup, while not without its problem-child products, is clearly not just an afterthought. The main and most impressive part of the color collection is the foundations. For the most part they have silky textures, and provide adequate sun protection (at least an SPF 15 with UVA-protecting ingredients). If you're keen on shopping this line you should also pay attention to their Perfect Rouge Lipstick, lip gloss, the mascaras, and some distinctive specialty products. Items to avoid entirely include the eye and brow pencils and a couple of the eyeshadows; the makeup brushes are serviceable, but pale in comparison to what makeup artist–backed lines offer. Ignore the inflated claims that accompany many of Shiseido's makeup products, but don't ignore the best of what they have to offer—because in that regard, they're better than ever!

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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