The anti-aging claims for this uber-pricey serum are so over the top we want to scream. With terms like “signature skingenecell” and “serpinB3” it almost starts sound like a science project for wrinkles. In reality, this is just another overpriced serum that contains far more fragrance and preservative than state-of-the-art ingredients to help your skin look and act younger.
Because of the silicone this contains, it has a silky, lightweight texture that works well under a moisturizer, but the same is true for many serums regardless of their price.
This serum does contain a unique, amino acid-derived ingredient known as piperidinepropionic acid. According to a press release from the company, “Shiseido discovered the protein Serpin b3 is a factor in blocking the barrier function that protects the body from external stresses such as dryness and ultraviolet rays and has independently developed the amino acid derivative 1-piperidine propionic acid. Moreover, on human skin, 1-piperidine-propionic acid suppresses the production of Serpin b3 and results in improvement of the barrier function, moisture retention ability and skin texture and smoothness. These results have proven that application of 1-piperidine-propionic acid leads to improve skin quality.” Sounds great and there’s nothing wrong with touting a unique discovery, but what isn’t mentioned is how many other ingredients offer similar benefits or go beyond what this amino acid derivative can do. Niacinamide has similar benefits and goes above and beyond, as do many other antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients.
It’s interesting that research on this ingredient mentions its ability to protect skin from ultraviolet rays (sunlight). Again, many other ingredients do this, too, but none of them replace the need for a well formulated sunscreen. Because this serum doesn’t provide sun protection, it cannot make good on its claim to counteract “all signs of aging”. After all, sunlight causes most of what we identify as signs of aging, so without sunscreen as part of your daily routine, even the best anti-aging serums won’t be of much help.
In the end, despite the novel ingredient discussed above, this serum simply isn’t worth the cost. It poses a risk of irritation due to the fragrance ingredient it contains, which would be one more issue the amino acid-derived ingredient mentioned above would need to fight against, which isn’t helpful for anyone’s skin.
A luxurious serum that dramatically counteracts all signs of aging, restoring vitality and radiance to the skin. Signature Skingenecell 1P decreases the amount of cell-damaging Serpin B3 that compromises skin's natural ability to maintain optimal cell turnover and restore DNA damage. Exclusive Condensed Capsule Technology creates a unique texture and allows for a higher concentration of Skingenecell 1P for maximum benefits. Skin is made resistant to signs of damage, stress and age.
Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Piperidinepropionic Acid, PEG-400, Glyceryl Diisostearate, Maltitol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Mineral Oil, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Phenoxyethanol, Isohexadecane, Agar, Isostearic Acid, Polysorbate 80, Xanthan Gum, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Fragrance, Bis-Butyldimethicone Polyglyceryl-3, Lauryl Betaine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sorbitan Oleate, Sucrose Stearate, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Metaphosphate, Disodium EDTA, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Alcohol, Limonene, Sodium Metabisulfate, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Iron Oxides, Citronellol, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Geraniol, Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Iron Oxides, Benzyl Benzoate, Serine, Prunus Speciosa Leaf Extract, Glycine, Arginine HCI, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Ononis Spinosa Root Extract, Averrhoa Carambola Leaf Extract, Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopherol, BHT
Shiseido is one of the largest cosmetic companies in Japan, and the founder wants consumers worldwide to know that the brand he began is meant for all who seek beauty. Oddly enough, Shiseido (pronounced "she-say-doe"), whose products have a distinctly Japanese appearance and appeal, began in 1872 as Japan's first Western-style pharmacy. Its products have been sold in the United States for over 40 years, and it has become a nearly overwhelming product line. Although there are some respectable products, Shiseido's skin-care collection is far from a total approach to anything, unless your skin-care mantra is "it has to be average yet needlessly expensive and the routine has to include more products than any other line recommends."
A total approach to health and beauty would take into account all that has been learned to date about how skin functions, how it can repair itself, how it ages, and what it realistically takes for it to look, feel, and function at its best. Such an approach does not, however, involve cleansers with alkaline ingredients that cause skin to be unnecessarily dry, lackluster toners, or far too many products with alcohol; that can only harm the skin, which isn't beautiful in the least.
Shiseido doesn't have the issue of sun protection down yet, as witness a few of their sunscreens that still lack sufficient UVA protection - even though they participate in Japan's UVA-based PA rating system (explained in the Sun Products reviews below). And when it comes to state-of-the art essentials such as antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and substances that reinforce the structure of healthy skin, Shiseido typically comes up short. You'll hear (and read) much talk about the company's exclusive technologies, but terms like Bio-Regenerine, Phyto-Capsule Emulsification, Optimal Balance Network, and Deacti-Complex are meaningless without significant, proven ingredients to support each technology's alleged function. We're sure they are intended to make the products seem more advanced and special to consumers, but the proof is in the ingredient lists, and very few of Shiseido's lists fall under the category of impressive.
If anything, the numerous skin-care options presented here are merely average or really disappointing. Many of the moisturizers have luscious textures, but again, it takes more than a sensational feel to create exceptional products that have your skin's best interest (and best appearance) in mind.
One point of difference with this line is that Shiseido insists on regular facial massage. That means you'll find several facial massage creams, although most of them have traditional moisturizer formularies that differ little from what's seen throughout the lineup. Shiseido maintains that routine facial massage creates firmer skin that's less prone to sagging because the massage action tones the muscles, but that simply isn't true. The muscles of the face are among the most frequently used. Repetitive muscle movements are a prime cause of expression lines around the eyes, mouth, and on the forehead. Botox has become such a popular procedure because it selectively prevents these muscles from working, which smoothes creases and lines. Massage alone cannot do that; if anything, routine facial massage can encourage lines and sagging by stretching the skin. Furthermore, when skin slackens and sags, it involves more than just the muscles. Sun damage plays a role in collagen and elastin destruction, as does gravity, which causes fat pads beneath the skin to slip. And then there's bone loss, and the fact that, as we age, skin continues to grow (yet has less to hold on to). Massage to repair sun damage—give me a break!
For more information about Shiseido, visit www.shiseido.com.
Although Shiseido is known more for their seemingly endless array of skin-care products, their makeup, while not without its problem-child products, is clearly not just an afterthought. The main and most impressive part of the color collection is the foundations. For the most part they have silky textures, and provide adequate sun protection (at least an SPF 15 with UVA-protecting ingredients). If you're keen on shopping this line you should also pay attention to their Perfect Rouge Lipstick, lip gloss, the mascaras, and some distinctive specialty products. Items to avoid entirely include the eye and brow pencils and a couple of the eyeshadows; the makeup brushes are serviceable, but pale in comparison to what makeup artist–backed lines offer. Ignore the inflated claims that accompany many of Shiseido's makeup products, but don't ignore the best of what they have to offer—because in that regard, they're better than ever!