08.24.2012
0
2
Precious Moroccan Argan Oil Ayurveda Night Cream Skin Balancing Capsules
Rating
0.8 fl. oz. for $40
Category:Skin Care > Specialty Products > Specialty Skin Care Products
Last Updated:08.24.2012
Jar Packaging:Yes
Tested on animals:Unknown
Review Overview

These individually packaged capsules are housed in jar, and provide a silicone-rich formula that contains some very good plant ingredients, including baobab (Adansonia digitata oil) and argan oil. Although argan oil isn't necessarily “precious” or a must-have ingredient, like almost all non-fragrant plant oils, it's a good source of fatty acids and antioxidants that benefit skin without causing irritation.

Along with the antioxidants are a couple of peptides and a good anti-irritant, which is why it's disappointing to report that these capsules take a turn for the worse with the inclusion of a flower wax and neem oil. Neem has potential toxic effects, although it also has been shown to have antimicrobial properties (Sources: Life Sciences, January 2001, pages 1153–1160; Journal of Ethnopharmacology, August 2000, pages 377–382; Phytotherapy Research, February 1999, pages 81–83; and Mutation Research, June 1998, pages 247–258). The formula also contains fragrance, which only adds to the irritation potential. In short, these capsules are not recommended.

As for the argan oil, it isn't "precious" or the best antioxidant around (clearly Signature Club A doesn't think so or they'd include argan in all of their products). Rather, argan oil (or extract) is but one of many very good plant oils to consider.

One more thing about argan oil: The intense hype around it mirrors other ingredient crazes we've seen over the years and, like every one of them, will fade into the background when women realize it doesn't live up to the claims. See More Info to learn more about argan oil.

Pros:

  • Silky texture contains an impressive mix of antioxidants and peptides.

Cons:

  • Expensive considering that, taken altogether, the capsules add up to less than one ounce of product.
  • Contains a potent irritant and flower wax that pose further risk of irritation.

More Info:

Irritation, whether you see it on the surface of your skin or not, causes inflammation and as a result impairs healing, damages collagen, and depletes the vital substances your skin needs to stay young. For these reasons, it is best to eliminate, or minimize as much as possible, your exposure to known skin irritants, especially when there are brilliant formulas available that do not include these types of problematic ingredients (Sources: Inflammation Research, December 2008, pages 558–563; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2008, pages 124–135, and November-December 2000, pages 358–371; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2008, pages 15–19; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2008, pages 78–82; Mechanisms of Ageing and Development, January 2007, pages 92–105; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 2005, pages S13–S22).

Argan oil

Non-fragrant plant oil expressed from the kernels of rarified argan trees. Argan trees are extremely capable of adapting to severe environmental conditions, including droughts. Argan oil contains several beneficial lipids and fatty acids for skin, including oleic acid, palmitic acid, and especially linoleic acid. It is also a good source of vitamin E (Tocopherol) and, like several other plant oils, is a source of antioxidant compounds. Argan oil is a natural source of the antioxidant ferulic acid. The cosmetics industry is hailing argan oil as a restorative wonder owing to its use by Moroccan women for years to tend to their hair, skin, and nails. Despite the folklore stories (which is irrelevant because not all Moroccan women have great skin, hair, and nails, or use argan oil, not to mention different cultures in the Middle East use different oils with mixed results), and limited availability of the trees (plus the difficult extraction process to obtain the oil), argan oil isn't a miraculous ingredient by any stretch of the imagination.

The research on argan oil has shown that, like sunflower and olive oils, its fatty acid and antioxidant content has health benefits (such as lowering cholesterol) when consumed orally. As for topical use, there is limited information about argan oil's unique benefits. In one study, 20 subjects with combination to oily skin were evaluated using a cream containing argan oil, saw palmetto, and sesame seeds. Subjective and qualitative analysis showed that the oil was reduced by 20-42% depending on the inherent oiliness of various parts of the face. The study did not demonstrate that argan oil played a specific role in the results—all we know is that the random formula itself showed the benefit and it wasn't compared to any other product so the results are irrelevant. Moreover, the cream was only used for four weeks, so we don't know if ongoing use may have caused breakouts (and given the fatty acids present in argan oil, there is a possibility it can cause breakouts). Argan oil is a good plant oil to consider if skin or hair is dry to very dry, but is not better than many other non-fragrant plant oils used in cosmetics (Sources: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, June 2007, pages 113–118; Clinical Nutrition, October 2004, pages 1,159–1,166; European Journal of Cancer Prevention, February 2003, pages 67–75; and Journal of Ethnopharmacology, October 1999, pages 7–14).

What we know to be true at this point is that argan oil isn't the one oil to look for, nor is it the best (Source: Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology, December 2010, pages 1,669–1,675)

Claims

Adrienne's pampering beauty treatment features our rich, emollient and moisturizing night cream in a soft gel, topical use capsule form. Argan oil and baobab extract work together in this formula to make it an extremely powerful combination for hydrating even the driest skin.

Ingredients

Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-8, Myristoyl Tetrapeptide-8, Narcissus Poeticus Flower Wax, Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Fragrance, BHT

Brand Overview

Signature Club A At-a-Glance

Strengths: Several products contain proven anti-aging ingredients and are fragrance-free; reasonable prices; most of the capsules are worth a look; excellent blush and mascara.

Weaknesses: Many of the anti-aging claims are over-the-top, stretching the boundaries of what skin care can really do; jar packaging which doesn’t keep the good ingredients in the products stable; the Meltdown cleansers tend to be highly fragrant; products for various areas (face, eyes, neck, and chest) tend to have remarkably similar formulas; poor foundation formulations with limited shade ranges; poor concealer and eye pencil.

Signature Club A is a line of skin care and makeup sold exclusively on the Home Shopping Network (HSN). The woman behind this brand, Adrien Arpel, has been involved in the world of cosmetics for over 40 years. Back in the 1970s she owned a namesake skin-care and makeup company sold in department stores.

Adrien Arpel sold her namesake line to a large corporation, but several years later, she had a falling-out with them. As a result of this falling out, she was prevented from attaching her name to another brand, so she began to market herself and her new products under the name "Adrienne." These products are now being sold under the brand Signature Club A.

As was true when Paula first reviewed Adrien Arpel's brand in the 1980s, there are more disappointments then strengths. This is not a line to turn to for anti-aging formulas despite the myriad options available, especially considering Signature Club A offers only one sunscreen. Dozens of anti-aging products and only one sunscreen should be illegal, but sadly it isn't, even though your skin will suffer as a result! Abundant research makes it incontrovertibly clear that you can't fight wrinkles, brown spots, and sagging skin without daily (and we do mean daily) use of a sunscreen designed for your skin type. And it should be loaded with antioxidants for even greater benefits.

Beyond skin care, the key to looking younger longer is to consider the corrective cosmetic procedures (Botox, dermal fillers, laser treatments) you feel comfortable having done. Indeed, the combination of a brilliant skin-care routine with the right cosmetic procedures can make a strikingly positive difference.

Whether you're intrigued by Signature Club A's skin care or makeup, there are only a handful of products to consider. This line is known for its large makeup kits. Although these may seem like a great deal, they aren't because most contain so-so products that aren't nearly as good as what many brands at the drugstore offer. They definitely don't have anything over the e.l.f. brand, which costs far less. Note that Adrienne's on-air presentations often spotlight makeup kits. These may seem like a  great value, but they're not if the products are mediocre (most of them are) which means you'll be less likely to use them often, if at all.

Bottom line: You're not missing out on some anti-aging miracle or secret formula if you skip this line altogether. The curious should shop carefully, and follow our recommendations on what to avoid so you can be sure you're getting the best of what Signature Club A has to offer.

For more information about Signature Club A, call 1.800.284.3900 or visit www.hsn.com.

About the Experts

The Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment that Paula Begoun, founder of Beautypedia and Paula's Choice Skincare made over 30 years ago-to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

Member Comments

No members have written a review yet. Be the first!

WRITE A COMMENT
Enter a title for your review
 
First Name, Last Initial
Optional
Email Address
 
How would you rate this product on the following:
Results
Value
Recommend
     
     
     
Review
500 characters left
 
SUBMIT
CANCEL

Terms of Use

585633-IIS5 v1.0.0.389 4/18/2015 2:28:50 AM