Advanced Protect Essence UV, SPF 15 (Discontinued)

by SK-II   
Price:
$90 - 1 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer with Sunscreen
Last Updated:
4/27/2012
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes

Advanced Protect Essence UV, SPF 15 is problematic because the cost of any expensive sunscreen means you are unlikely to apply it liberally, which means you won’t be getting adequate sunscreen protection. Separate from my concerns about application, this product is not recommended even though it contains an in-part zinc oxide sunscreen. That’s because, for unknown reasons, SK-II decided to include the irritating menthol derivative menthyl lactate. Any of Olay’s sunscreens with zinc oxide or avobenzone are distinctly preferred to this pricey mistake.

Helps maintain a smoother, younger looking skin, and helps prevent premature signs of aging. Rich in Pitera and moisturizers, it also contains an advanced UV protections system (SPF 15) to help guard skin against harmful exposure to UV rays.

Active: Octinoxate (7%), Zinc Oxide (2.94%), Other: Water, Saccharomycopsis Ferment Filtrate (Pitera), Isohexadecane, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Dimethicone, Menthyl Lactate, Behenyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Sodium Bicarbonate, Steareth-21, Steareth-2, Oleth-3 Phosphate, PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Disodium EDTA, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, Propylparaben

Procter & Gamble, as always, is extremely helpful in providing information about their products. In this case it was for their upscale SK-II skin-care line. We certainly can't say that about most companies. We have to acknowledge P&G for having the integrity to share their "inside" details with someone like me, who might be more critical than complimentary. Thank you, P&G!

Regrettably, and we mean that sincerely, we wish we had more positive comments to convey, but alas, we don't. The data provided don't change the reality about skin care and the ingredients that can have an impact on skin. SK-II products are hardly worth the price, especially when compared to Olay Regenerist and Definity (P&G's own drugstore line of skin-care products). In fact, it takes only a quick review of the formulas to note that many SK-II items are very similar to Olay Regenerist items, except that the latter don't include Pitera, the supposedly miracle ingredient in this line. Yet there is minimal research indicating that Pitera is even helpful for skin.

Pitera is the cornerstone of the SK-II line and is present in every SK-II product. Pitera is the trade name for Saccharomycopsis ferment filtrate (SFF), a form of yeast purportedly unique because of the fermenting and filtering process it goes through before being added to these products. As it turns out, many forms of yeast have anti-inflammatory properties and antioxidant properties, including SFF (Source: Journal of Dermatologic Science, June 2006, pages 249–257). Other than that, all of the information about Pitera comes from papers presented at medical conferences, not from published studies. Presenting papers at medical conferences is not at all the same thing as publishing the results of studies. We frequently present papers and information at medical conferences, and we wouldn't offer that material as proof of anything because it isn't. The standards for presenting a paper at a medical conference are very different from the requirements for publication of study results in most medical journals.

To give P&G the benefit of the doubt, even if Pitera is a wonder ingredient, this doesn't explain how it rates when compared with other "wonder" ingredients because there are no comparison studies. Hundreds of ingredients—ranging from green tea to superoxide dismutase, epigallocatechin-3-gallate, eicosapentaenoic acid, beta-carotene, pomegranate, and curcumin to vitamin E, vitamin A, and on and on and on—have stellar reputations, and there's copious documentation to prove it.

Another point to consider: If Pitera deserves the spotlight SK-II shines on it, then P&G needs to change their claims about Olay Regenerist and Definity, and at the very least say that these products are almost as good as SK-II except we left out the Pitera. Ultimately, unless you believe Pitera is the answer for your every skin-care need (because each and every SK-II product contains it, with very few other added extras), there is no reason to waste your time and energy on this line.

For more information about SK-II, owned by Procter & Gamble, visit www.sk-ii.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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