Signs Nourishing Cream (Discontinued)

by SK-II   Signs
Price:
$160 - 1 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:
11/27/2012
Jar Packaging:
Yes
Tested On Animals:
Yes

The SK-II brand has way too many moisturizers already, so why they added this one to the mix is a good question. Formula-wise, it follows the same pattern as other SK-II moisturizers (including eye creams): water, Pitera (listed by its yeast name of saccharomycopsis ferment filtrate), glycerin, thickeners, and niacinamide, the latter the B vitamin that shows up in lots of products, including dozens from Olay (both Olay and SK-II are owned by Procter & Gamble).

This moisturizer is supposed to address sagging skin, allowing it to “bounce back beautifully” because it addresses skin’s loss of elasticity. It doesn’t do that. No skin-care product can do that because once skin starts to sag due to lost elasticity (which occurs from sun damage and gravity, among other factors), cosmetic ingredients can’t change that. I know that doesn’t stop consumers from thinking that a face-lift-in-a-jar does exist, but it’s the truth. At best, this is just a smooth-feeling, ordinary jar-packaged moisturizer that won’t keep the teeny amount of beneficial ingredients present stable. There are far better products for a fraction of this price for normal to dry skin.

One more comment: A detailed explanation of Pitera is presented in the brand summary for SK-II; suffice to say it is not a miraculous or even close to a must-have ingredient for skin, and there’s not a shred of published, substantiated research to prove otherwise.

Rich Nourishing Treatment. Increases skin’s resilience. Addresses loss of elasticity. Formulated to combat the second signs of aging, including slackening skin. Packed with concentrated Pitera, plus vitamins, minerals and the latest anti-aging peptides. Helps skin bounce back beautifully.

Water, Saccharomycopsis Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Niacinamide, Triethylhexanoin, Butylene Glycol, Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Sucrose Polycottonseedate, Myristyl Myristate, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Sorbitan Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Myristyl Alcohol, Peg-40 Stearate, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Centella Asiatica Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract, Ceramide 2, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Tribehenin, Laureth-7, Polysorbate 65, Peg-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyacrylamide, Batyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzyl Alcohol, Disodium EDTA, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben

Procter & Gamble, as always, is extremely helpful in providing information about their products. In this case it was for their upscale SK-II skin-care line. We certainly can't say that about most companies. We have to acknowledge P&G for having the integrity to share their "inside" details with someone like me, who might be more critical than complimentary. Thank you, P&G!

Regrettably, and we mean that sincerely, we wish we had more positive comments to convey, but alas, we don't. The data provided don't change the reality about skin care and the ingredients that can have an impact on skin. SK-II products are hardly worth the price, especially when compared to Olay Regenerist and Definity (P&G's own drugstore line of skin-care products). In fact, it takes only a quick review of the formulas to note that many SK-II items are very similar to Olay Regenerist items, except that the latter don't include Pitera, the supposedly miracle ingredient in this line. Yet there is minimal research indicating that Pitera is even helpful for skin.

Pitera is the cornerstone of the SK-II line and is present in every SK-II product. Pitera is the trade name for Saccharomycopsis ferment filtrate (SFF), a form of yeast purportedly unique because of the fermenting and filtering process it goes through before being added to these products. As it turns out, many forms of yeast have anti-inflammatory properties and antioxidant properties, including SFF (Source: Journal of Dermatologic Science, June 2006, pages 249–257). Other than that, all of the information about Pitera comes from papers presented at medical conferences, not from published studies. Presenting papers at medical conferences is not at all the same thing as publishing the results of studies. We frequently present papers and information at medical conferences, and we wouldn't offer that material as proof of anything because it isn't. The standards for presenting a paper at a medical conference are very different from the requirements for publication of study results in most medical journals.

To give P&G the benefit of the doubt, even if Pitera is a wonder ingredient, this doesn't explain how it rates when compared with other "wonder" ingredients because there are no comparison studies. Hundreds of ingredients—ranging from green tea to superoxide dismutase, epigallocatechin-3-gallate, eicosapentaenoic acid, beta-carotene, pomegranate, and curcumin to vitamin E, vitamin A, and on and on and on—have stellar reputations, and there's copious documentation to prove it.

Another point to consider: If Pitera deserves the spotlight SK-II shines on it, then P&G needs to change their claims about Olay Regenerist and Definity, and at the very least say that these products are almost as good as SK-II except we left out the Pitera. Ultimately, unless you believe Pitera is the answer for your every skin-care need (because each and every SK-II product contains it, with very few other added extras), there is no reason to waste your time and energy on this line.

For more information about SK-II, owned by Procter & Gamble, visit www.sk-ii.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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