Whitening Source Derm Definition (Discontinued)

by SK-II   Whitening Source
Price:
$120 - 1 fl. oz.
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Category:
Skin Care > Retinol Products > Lighteners Without Hydroquinone
Last Updated:
4/27/2012
Jar Packaging:
No
Tested On Animals:
Yes
This is an interesting, though needlessly expensive, option for all skin types battling discolorations. The water-based gel contains an impressive amount of the B vitamin niacinamide along with a form of vitamin C, for which there is a small amount of research showing it to be effective in interrupting the process in skin that leads to hyperpigmentation. The formula also includes some good anti-irritants and omits fragrance. There is no research proving that Pitera (derived from the Saccharomycopsis strain of yeast) has any effect on discolorations. On the other hand, niacinamide has a growing body of research proving it to be a helpful ingredient for pigment concerns (Sources: International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2004, pages 231–238; and The British Journal of Dermatology, July 2002, pages 20–31). If you want niacinamide, it’s in this product, but similar amounts are present in products throughout the Regenerist and Pro-X lines from Olay (both Olay and SK-II are owned by Procter & Gamble) and in Paula’s Choice products. By the way, most of the research about niacinamide’s effect on melanin was conducted by Procter & Gamble; however, the majority of these studies were well-designed and/or done double-blind.
This revitalising gel emulsion enhanced with a Vitamin C derivative and Pitera hydrates and evens skin tone. It moisturises to promote a clear and translucent glow revealing brighter, more translucent skin.
Water, Saccharomycopsis Ferment Filtrate, Niacinamide, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Pentylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Tocopherol, Faex (Yeast Extract/ Extrait De Levure), Dimethiconol, Sodium Metabisulfite, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate

Procter & Gamble, as always, is extremely helpful in providing information about their products. In this case it was for their upscale SK-II skin-care line. We certainly can't say that about most companies. We have to acknowledge P&G for having the integrity to share their "inside" details with someone like me, who might be more critical than complimentary. Thank you, P&G!

Regrettably, and we mean that sincerely, we wish we had more positive comments to convey, but alas, we don't. The data provided don't change the reality about skin care and the ingredients that can have an impact on skin. SK-II products are hardly worth the price, especially when compared to Olay Regenerist and Definity (P&G's own drugstore line of skin-care products). In fact, it takes only a quick review of the formulas to note that many SK-II items are very similar to Olay Regenerist items, except that the latter don't include Pitera, the supposedly miracle ingredient in this line. Yet there is minimal research indicating that Pitera is even helpful for skin.

Pitera is the cornerstone of the SK-II line and is present in every SK-II product. Pitera is the trade name for Saccharomycopsis ferment filtrate (SFF), a form of yeast purportedly unique because of the fermenting and filtering process it goes through before being added to these products. As it turns out, many forms of yeast have anti-inflammatory properties and antioxidant properties, including SFF (Source: Journal of Dermatologic Science, June 2006, pages 249–257). Other than that, all of the information about Pitera comes from papers presented at medical conferences, not from published studies. Presenting papers at medical conferences is not at all the same thing as publishing the results of studies. We frequently present papers and information at medical conferences, and we wouldn't offer that material as proof of anything because it isn't. The standards for presenting a paper at a medical conference are very different from the requirements for publication of study results in most medical journals.

To give P&G the benefit of the doubt, even if Pitera is a wonder ingredient, this doesn't explain how it rates when compared with other "wonder" ingredients because there are no comparison studies. Hundreds of ingredients—ranging from green tea to superoxide dismutase, epigallocatechin-3-gallate, eicosapentaenoic acid, beta-carotene, pomegranate, and curcumin to vitamin E, vitamin A, and on and on and on—have stellar reputations, and there's copious documentation to prove it.

Another point to consider: If Pitera deserves the spotlight SK-II shines on it, then P&G needs to change their claims about Olay Regenerist and Definity, and at the very least say that these products are almost as good as SK-II except we left out the Pitera. Ultimately, unless you believe Pitera is the answer for your every skin-care need (because each and every SK-II product contains it, with very few other added extras), there is no reason to waste your time and energy on this line.

For more information about SK-II, owned by Procter & Gamble, visit www.sk-ii.com.

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About the Experts

Paula Begoun is the best-selling author of 20 books on skin care and makeup. She is known worldwide as the Cosmetics Cop and creator of Paula's Choice. Paula's expertise has led to hundreds of appearances on national and international television including:

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The Paula's Choice Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula herself.

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