12.02.2014
8
846
SkinMedica
Rejuvenative Moisturizer
Rating
2 fl. oz. for $54
Category:Skin Care > Moisturizers (Daytime and Nighttime) > Moisturizer without Sunscreen
Last Updated:12.02.2014
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:No
Overview

Rejuvenative Moisturizer is an outstanding moisturizer for normal to dry skin. In many ways this rivals both the similarly priced and the more expensively priced moisturizers from Estee Lauder. Vitamin E is prominent, but this also contains stabilized vitamin C, tocotrienols, plant-based anti-irritants, and notable emollients. This does contain fragrance, but that’s forgivable considering the tiny amount and the preponderance of good-for-skin ingredients. It’s a pricey, but outstanding moisturizer that takes great care of dry skin showing signs of aging.

Claims

Protects agains aging and environmental aggressors. Helps enhance skin’s moisture barrier to improve signs of dry, aging skin. Nourishes and re-hydrates skin.

Ingredients

Water/Aqua/Eau, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Diglycerin, Isostearyl Behenate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Panthenol, Phytosterols, Tocopherol, Tocotrienols, Squalene, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Algae Extract, Bisabolol, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Retinyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Caprylyl Methicone, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum/Fragrance.

Brand Overview

SkinMedica At-A-Glance

Strengths: Many of the moisturizers and serums are truly state-of-the-art formulas; every sunscreen provides sufficient UVA protection; good cleansers; and several products are fragrance-free.

Weaknesses: Expensive; the acne products are terrible, and do not feature a topical disinfectant; no reliable AHA or BHA exfoliants; the unknowns about daily topical use of human growth factors make the TNS subcategory of products a potentially risky endeavor.

California-based SkinMedica offers a range of dermatologist-developed skin-care products aimed at the symptoms of aging skin, such as wrinkles and skin discolorations. (Is there anyone whose skin isn't aging?) They also offer products to manage acne and for skin discolorations. Regrettably, the products for acne are a giant step in the wrong direction, and the skin-lightening options are paltry (although the latter do contain a potentially effective amount of vitamin C). So, as far as SkinMedica's anti-aging products (a subcategory labeled TNS) go, they are far more senseless than significant.

All of the TNS products contain an ingredient complex the company refers to as "human fibroblast conditioned media." Before we launch into a discussion of the technical aspects, let me point out that "human fibroblast conditioned media" doesn't really tell the consumer anything. Fibroblasts are connective tissue cells that secrete proteins that help generate new tissue (such as collagen). Collagen, as we know, is damaged by sun exposure and is depleted with age; the number of fibroblasts, which produce collagen, also decreases with age (Source: The FASEB Journal, 2000, pages 1325–1334). In the International Cosmetic Ingredient and Handbook, human fibroblast conditioned media is "the growth of media removed from culture of human fibroblasts and human keratinocytes [skin cells] after several days of growth." The handbook also mentions that the "media" used to begin the process are Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium mixed with Ham’s Nutrient Mixture F-12 and calf serum.

What are these media and mixtures, and what is their relevance for aging skin? Both the Dulbecco and the Ham media, which contain glucose along with varying blends of salt, minerals, and/or the amino acid L-glutamine, are used in laboratories to grow cell cultures and keep them stable so they in turn can be evaluated and/or used in experiments. Neither of these media have relevance for aging skin; they are merely the substrate on which these human fibroblast cells grow in a petri dish. As for the calf serum, we assume that it's a source of various growth factors. We make that assumption based on a comparative study published in the May 2006 issue of Dermatologic Surgery. In this study, the TNS (Tissue Nutrient Solution) mixture used in all of the NouriCel-MD products was detailed as containing "a variety of growth factors, including TGF-beta(1), vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), and human growth factor (HGF)."

They didn't specify the origin of the human growth factor in the TNS blend, but it is presumably a component of the lab-grown fibroblast cells. Regardless, the results of this single-blind study involving 31 participants indicated, according to NouriCel-MD, that topical products with growth factors promote better results on aging skin than topical vitamin C. However, they don't mention anything about the effects of other ingredients or of a cocktail of ingredients. All in all, this study is completely meaningless. Even more disappointing is that the improvements were not tremendous, and—here's the kicker—the results were measured based on a physician's assessment of before and after photographs, and on the participant's self-assessment. Who knows if the photographs were doctored, or even if the lighting or the subject's pose was different at the end of the study (a slight tilt of the head or change in lighting can easily make wrinkles more or less prominent). In the end, this isn't a study you should take seriously, and the only other published research on this ingredient complex was authored by Dr. Richard Fitzpatrick, who—Surprise! Surprise!—is the dermatologist behind the SkinMedica line (Sources: Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 350–359; and Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, April 2003, pages 25–34). That's sort of like a tobacco company writing a report concluding that smoking isn't actually as detrimental to health as common thinking suggests!

Moreover, Dr. Fitzpatrick admits that "More double-blind and controlled studies are needed to confirm the preliminary clinical effects of growth factor products, and more controls on product quality and stability need to be established." Now that's an understatement!

As it turns out, the human fibroblast conditioned media/TNS complex present in all of the NouriCel-MD products is a cocktail of growth factors, none of which have a history of safety when used as part of a daily anti-aging skin-care routine on healthy, intact skin. For detailed information on human growth factor and other growth factors, please refer to the Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary on the Home page of this Web site. For now, all that can be reasonably concluded is that there are too many unknowns about topical use of growth factors to deem it advisable to look for this group of ingredients when shopping for anti-aging products.

Conceivably, it's a promising field, but your skin doesn't need to be the guinea pig for what may prove to be problematic with ongoing use. The vast majority of research on topical application of growth factors (most notably human growth factor and transforming growth factors) has focused on wounded or diseased skin (think diabetes, ulcers, and skin cancer); essentially, skin that needs to be healed, which is an area where naturally occurring growth factors in the human body work on their own accord. This research is not related to applying growth factors to otherwise healthy (albeit wrinkled or discolored) skin; wrinkles are not wounds, nor does their formation over time have anything to do with how the skin heals itself when cut or ulcerated.

Although SkinMedica tries to establish medical credibility by advertising that its products are available only through dermatologists and dermatology professionals (the latter a term that is open to interpretation, thus allowing non-medical retail sales), the reality is that any consumer can purchase these products from a variety of non-medical sources. As it turns out, despite the concerns described above for the NouriCel-MD products, there are several outstanding options to consider from SkinMedica, so you may indeed want to indulge.

For more information about SkinMedica, call (877) 944-1412 or visit www.SkinMedica.com.

By the way, SkinMedica's pharmaceutical arm produces such prescription products as Vaniqa, NeoBenz Micro (benzoyl peroxide), and EpiQuin Micro (contains 4% hydroquinone). Any physician can prescribe these products if necessary to address your skin-care concerns (or, in the case of Vaniqa, unwanted hair).

About the Experts

The Beautypedia Research Team is dedicated to helping you find the absolute best products for your skin, using research-based criteria to review beauty products from an honest, balanced perspective. Each member of the team was personally trained by Paula Begoun herself.

Member Comments
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02.03.2015
On Second Tube - not moisturizing enough

I'm on my second 1.7 oz tube. No longer moisturizing enough for my dry, mature skin during winter months here in northern California. I purchased based on Beautipedia's best reviews and the antioxidants this moisturizer boasts of having. This product sucks the moisture from my skin worsening my deep forehead wrinkles. I'd recommend for those with normal to slightly dry skin or those who want to nourish the skin as this does not moisturize super dry skin.

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Reviewed by
Chris C.
12.30.2014
Not for me

I wanted to love this moisturizer--after reading all of the great reviews and Paula's rating I ordered it from The Derm Store. After 1 week I broke out all over. I have sensitive, combination to dry skin (dry in cheek and eye area and oily in my T zone) and and there must have been something in the ingredients that set my skin off. Disappointed it didn't work for me.

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Reviewed by
Erin, S
09.02.2014
Love it

Very good moisturizer for day and night. Smooths out my skin nicely. Not too thick and not to thin. The smell is a bit medicinal, but it doesn't bother me that much. Will probably repurchase unless I find something better.

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Reviewed by
sasha s.
03.30.2014
Skin medica rejuvenative moisturizer

This is the best night time moisturizer I have ever used. I buy it from Amazon for a great price!

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Reviewed by
Charlene G
02.25.2014
Disappointing

This didn't hydrate my dry skin enough and made my lines look worse. But the deal breaker was the smell that I found intolerable.

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Reviewed by
Erica j
01.18.2013
Didn't work for me

I wanted to love this nice, thick moisturizer for my very dry skin, but it made me break out, which I never do. I only used it about a week and then I returned it. I have sensitive skin, and there must be something in this moisturizer that really aggravated it.

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Reviewed by
MICHELLE B.
01.01.2013
Rejuv Moisturizer

I have been using this product for over a year. I absolutely love it and feel it is worth every penny. My skin is so much smoother since I started using it.

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Reviewed by
Anonymous
12.21.2012
Great Moisturizer

I have tried a LOT of moisturizers from drugstore to ones that have MD or DR in the name. None of work like this for my skin. I have normal/dry skin and this absorbs beautifully and keeps my skin hydrated all day long. I put it on a 5:30 am and get home at 8 pm and my skin is still soft and smooth.

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Texas Gal
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