11.26.2014
12
27
TNS Essential Serum
Rating
1 fl. oz. for $270
Last Updated:11.26.2014
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:No
Review Overview

SkinMedica sells many serums, but because TNS Essential is their most expensive serum, they wanted to let you know it is “unparalleled” for anti-aging, which of course begs the question as to why do they keep selling their other products? Shouldn’t this be the only one you need?

This product is neither unparalleled nor the serum to beat, but we must say that it contains some outstanding ingredients and is beautifully packaged. It is brimming with antioxidants and includes a potentially effective amount of the skin-lightening agent alpha-arbutin. All of that is good news, but it doesn’t justify the price. For this amount of money, you may as well have your skin discolorations treated with any of the light-emitting devices that have proven successful, from Intense Pulsed Light to Fraxel, assuming you’re a good candidate for these procedures.

Despite the beneficial ingredients in this product there is a major caveat. It is, in fact, what SkinMedica is known for: “human fibroblast conditioned media.” The human fibroblast conditioned media/TNS complex present in many of SkinMedica anti-aging products is a cocktail of growth factors, none of which have a history of safety when used as part of a daily anti-aging skin-care routine on healthy, intact skin. For detailed information on human growth factor and other growth factors, please refer to the Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary on the Home page of this site. A detailed report on human fibroblast conditioned media is presented in the introductory summary for SkinMedica.

For now, all that can be reasonably concluded is that there are too many unknowns about topical use of growth factors to deem it advisable to seek products with this group of ingredients when shopping for anti-aging products. Conceivably, it’s a promising field, but your skin doesn’t need to be the guinea pig for what may prove to be problematic with ongoing use. The large amount of human fibroblast conditioned media in this serum (it is the first ingredient) is why, despite several positives, it is not rated favorably. Of lesser concern but still worthy of mention is that the formula contains several fragrance ingredients that pose a risk of irritation (and that’s not what you want your anti-aging products to do).

Claims

This unparalleled anti-aging serum is the first to combine the benefits of the patented growth factor serum, TNS Recovery Complex, with potent antioxidants, peptides and other innovative anti-aging ingredients to regenerate your skin.

Ingredients

Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media, Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Unsaponifiables, Alpha-Arbutin, Isoceteth-20, Arachidyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Ergothioneine, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Hydrolyzed Sericin, Phospholipids, Ubiquinone, Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Aminobutyric Acid, Phytosterols, Tocopherol, Tocotrienols, Squalene, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, Steareth-10, Steareth-20, Butylene Glycol, Maltodextrin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Ethylparaben, Fragrance, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Coumarin, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Geraniol, Isoeugenol

Brand Overview

SkinMedica At-A-Glance

Strengths: Many of the moisturizers and serums are truly state-of-the-art formulas; every sunscreen provides sufficient UVA protection; good cleansers; and several products are fragrance-free.

Weaknesses: Expensive; the acne products are terrible, and do not feature a topical disinfectant; no reliable AHA or BHA exfoliants; the unknowns about daily topical use of human growth factors make the TNS subcategory of products a potentially risky endeavor.

California-based SkinMedica offers a range of dermatologist-developed skin-care products aimed at the symptoms of aging skin, such as wrinkles and skin discolorations. (Is there anyone whose skin isn't aging?) They also offer products to manage acne and for skin discolorations. Regrettably, the products for acne are a giant step in the wrong direction, and the skin-lightening options are paltry (although the latter do contain a potentially effective amount of vitamin C). So, as far as SkinMedica's anti-aging products (a subcategory labeled TNS) go, they are far more senseless than significant.

All of the TNS products contain an ingredient complex the company refers to as "human fibroblast conditioned media." Before we launch into a discussion of the technical aspects, let me point out that "human fibroblast conditioned media" doesn't really tell the consumer anything. Fibroblasts are connective tissue cells that secrete proteins that help generate new tissue (such as collagen). Collagen, as we know, is damaged by sun exposure and is depleted with age; the number of fibroblasts, which produce collagen, also decreases with age (Source: The FASEB Journal, 2000, pages 1325–1334). In the International Cosmetic Ingredient and Handbook, human fibroblast conditioned media is "the growth of media removed from culture of human fibroblasts and human keratinocytes [skin cells] after several days of growth." The handbook also mentions that the "media" used to begin the process are Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium mixed with Ham’s Nutrient Mixture F-12 and calf serum.

What are these media and mixtures, and what is their relevance for aging skin? Both the Dulbecco and the Ham media, which contain glucose along with varying blends of salt, minerals, and/or the amino acid L-glutamine, are used in laboratories to grow cell cultures and keep them stable so they in turn can be evaluated and/or used in experiments. Neither of these media have relevance for aging skin; they are merely the substrate on which these human fibroblast cells grow in a petri dish. As for the calf serum, we assume that it's a source of various growth factors. We make that assumption based on a comparative study published in the May 2006 issue of Dermatologic Surgery. In this study, the TNS (Tissue Nutrient Solution) mixture used in all of the NouriCel-MD products was detailed as containing "a variety of growth factors, including TGF-beta(1), vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), and human growth factor (HGF)."

They didn't specify the origin of the human growth factor in the TNS blend, but it is presumably a component of the lab-grown fibroblast cells. Regardless, the results of this single-blind study involving 31 participants indicated, according to NouriCel-MD, that topical products with growth factors promote better results on aging skin than topical vitamin C. However, they don't mention anything about the effects of other ingredients or of a cocktail of ingredients. All in all, this study is completely meaningless. Even more disappointing is that the improvements were not tremendous, and—here's the kicker—the results were measured based on a physician's assessment of before and after photographs, and on the participant's self-assessment. Who knows if the photographs were doctored, or even if the lighting or the subject's pose was different at the end of the study (a slight tilt of the head or change in lighting can easily make wrinkles more or less prominent). In the end, this isn't a study you should take seriously, and the only other published research on this ingredient complex was authored by Dr. Richard Fitzpatrick, who—Surprise! Surprise!—is the dermatologist behind the SkinMedica line (Sources: Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 350–359; and Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, April 2003, pages 25–34). That's sort of like a tobacco company writing a report concluding that smoking isn't actually as detrimental to health as common thinking suggests!

Moreover, Dr. Fitzpatrick admits that "More double-blind and controlled studies are needed to confirm the preliminary clinical effects of growth factor products, and more controls on product quality and stability need to be established." Now that's an understatement!

As it turns out, the human fibroblast conditioned media/TNS complex present in all of the NouriCel-MD products is a cocktail of growth factors, none of which have a history of safety when used as part of a daily anti-aging skin-care routine on healthy, intact skin. For detailed information on human growth factor and other growth factors, please refer to the Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary on the Home page of this Web site. For now, all that can be reasonably concluded is that there are too many unknowns about topical use of growth factors to deem it advisable to look for this group of ingredients when shopping for anti-aging products.

Conceivably, it's a promising field, but your skin doesn't need to be the guinea pig for what may prove to be problematic with ongoing use. The vast majority of research on topical application of growth factors (most notably human growth factor and transforming growth factors) has focused on wounded or diseased skin (think diabetes, ulcers, and skin cancer); essentially, skin that needs to be healed, which is an area where naturally occurring growth factors in the human body work on their own accord. This research is not related to applying growth factors to otherwise healthy (albeit wrinkled or discolored) skin; wrinkles are not wounds, nor does their formation over time have anything to do with how the skin heals itself when cut or ulcerated.

Although SkinMedica tries to establish medical credibility by advertising that its products are available only through dermatologists and dermatology professionals (the latter a term that is open to interpretation, thus allowing non-medical retail sales), the reality is that any consumer can purchase these products from a variety of non-medical sources. As it turns out, despite the concerns described above for the NouriCel-MD products, there are several outstanding options to consider from SkinMedica, so you may indeed want to indulge.

For more information about SkinMedica, call (877) 944-1412 or visit www.SkinMedica.com.

By the way, SkinMedica's pharmaceutical arm produces such prescription products as Vaniqa, NeoBenz Micro (benzoyl peroxide), and EpiQuin Micro (contains 4% hydroquinone). Any physician can prescribe these products if necessary to address your skin-care concerns (or, in the case of Vaniqa, unwanted hair).

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

Member Comments
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07.11.2015
Amazing

Amazing. Skin is brighter and seems to be plumper. Smell is weird but SO worth it. Bank breaker but after all it's your FACE. YOUNGER LOOKING.

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Reviewed by
Puddles
07.06.2015
Nothing Else Compares!

I love this product! Recommended to me by my esthetician I was hesitant due to hefty price tag, but I am so glad I did! I have tried repeatedly to find a cheaper product that will achieve similar results to no avail. I use this in the AM with Retin A in the PM. Per a Skinmeidca rep I use a drop of H20 with the Serum. Thins it out a little meaning I use less product (1 bottle every 3 months), very smooth application, worth every penny. Gave it 3 stars for value due to the high price tag.

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Reviewed by
SingleMomsTales
05.23.2015
Cosmetologist

This product is amazing! It's well worth it for being your all in one bottle for anti-aging. Your skin cycle changes every month so you need to use this for 3 months and you will be amazed! My freckles have gotten lighter and skin tone is even. I have been getting compliments of how bright my skin is and people asking me what I use. I have never been happier with a product! You need to be patient and compliant. Take before and after photos. I will guarantee you will see the difference.

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Reviewed by
Tiffany N.
03.28.2015
Not Impressed

Been using it for 3 weeks, no difference in skin

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Reviewed by
Cathy F
02.07.2015
AMAZING PRODUCT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have been an esthetician for almost 40 years and have worked with most of the top skin care products ever sold. SkinMedica is the best, most effective product line I have ever worked with for anti-aging!! The TNS Essential Serum at the top of my list of recommendations! As for the price.. you are getting 2 products in one, growth factors and an anti oxidant with peptides. Can't go wrong with this product! Well worth the price! IT WORKS!!!!

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Reviewed by
Anonymous
12.29.2014
Unbelievable!!

I am 68 yrs old and a esthetican. This product is truly amazing and one a kind. Take picture of yourself before you begin and add another picture every month - you will be amazed at the difference . Sorry Paula, maybe you didn't use it long enough - It is after the first month that results begin to show and they just the keep getting better.

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Reviewed by
Annie M
12.07.2014
I didn't want to like it, but I just bought a second bottle

I'm in my early 40's and decided to start investing in better skin care products and regular facials. I do not want injections or anything too crazy. I purchased TNS at the med spa I visit and could not even believe the price on this, but I decided to try it once. I hardly ever notice moisturizers and serums making a real difference, but in one month this one really made my skin brighter by using it in the morning and evening. Yesterday I bought a second bottle. Hooked.

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Reviewed by
Anonymous
07.26.2014
TNS

This is the first product that has made a noticeable difference to my skin. I'm 57 and have been using it for 3-4 weeks and I can see the improvement. My skin has a glow to it that I haven't seen in years. I disagree with your rating. It is expensive but I love the results.

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Reviewed by
Anonymous
05.19.2013
It works!

I've used this product, along with SkinMedica's TriRetinol and Vitamin C/E serum, and the results are amazing! I'm 62, and my skin literally glows. It's tight, almost poreless. Wrinkles on my forehead and around my eyes (I use all of the products around my eyes) have gotten smaller over the years. The deep wrinkle between my eyes has not gotten worse and neither have the lines around my mouth. I truly look younger than I did 5 years ago, with no dermatological treatments.

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Reviewed by
Anonymous
04.25.2013
Love it, sorry Paula you are wrong

It's expensive but I only use in the am and then use Paula's great products at night. I have to say it is fantastic, I have used it for about 4 months and my skin looks a lot better. And, while expensive, it lasts forever.

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Reviewed by
Sandra B.
01.04.2013
$260

I should've read your reviews before believing others' hype!!! I’ve read that tns “media” used to begin the process are Dulbecco’s Modified Eagle Medium mixed with Ham’s Nutrient Mixture F-12 and calf serum. How safe is calf serum in light of mad cow disease? I also read that it contains “a variety of growth factors, including TGF-beta(1), vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), and human growth factor (HGF).” Would this adversely affect the blood testing qualifications for amateur athletes?

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Reviewed by
djm
01.04.2013
$260

I should've read your review before believing others' hype!!! I’ve read that tns “media” used to begin the process are Dulbecco’s Modified Eagle Medium mixed with Ham’s Nutrient Mixture F-12 and calf serum. How safe is calf serum in light of mad cow disease? I also read that it contains “a variety of growth factors, including TGF-beta(1), vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), and human growth factor (HGF).” Would this adversely affect the blood testing qualifications for amateur athletes?

Value
Recommend
Results
Reviewed by
djm
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