The claims for this moisturizer designed for the neck are so over-the-top it makes me ill to think of the number of women who are falling for it. You’re asked to believe that it contains ingredients that can burn fat and eliminate a double chin, which sags because of fat pads that have pushed through stretched-out muscle. It also includes an ingredient complex that claims to slow aging on the neck by 33%. What a bizarre assertion.
Does that mean your neck will look younger for 33% longer than the rest of you? And what is younger? Your neck will look five minutes younger, but your face only two minutes younger? None of this is possible, especially because the Skinn line doesn’t offer any sunscreens. There are absolutely no skin-care products that can firm a chin or lift a neck; you can keep slathering stuff on, but that isn’t going to change a thing. Perhaps wishful thinking is what Skinn hopes will keep you younger.
This is nothing more than a standard lightweight, lotion-like moisturizer. It contains some good ingredients for dry skin anywhere on the body, but absolutely cannot spot-reduce fat to eliminate a double chin. The physiological factors that lead to a double chin with age have to do with fat accumulation, skin sagging (the effects of gravity and the fact that the body continues to make more skin even as we age), and bone loss, among other factors. Skin-care products cannot affect any of this—none of it.
A key point of difference with this product is the inclusion of the ingredient teprenone. Ingredient manufacturers selling this ingredient to cosmetics brands claim it is an active ingredient whose multiple functions include limiting skin-cell senescence (i.e., pre-programmed cell death, when skin cell reproduction starts slowing down and eventually stopping as we grow older). As it turns out, this ingredient is a drug that Skinn appears to be using off-label, meaning that it is really a pharmaceutical, which my research indicates is against FDA regulations.
Teprenone is the brand name of a drug known as geranylgeranylacetone, which is used to treat gastric ulcers and is being researched as an option for slowing age-related hearing loss (Sources: Brain Research, May 2008, pages 9–17; and Digestion, October 2007, pages 215–224). What do hearing loss and ulcers have to do with aging skin? One of the key ways geranylgeranylacetone works is by influencing heat-shock proteins, which help other proteins interact as they should at the cellular level, which in turn affects many systems in the body. Heat-shock proteins are most active during times of stress, such as exposure to cigarette smoke and unprotected, direct sunlight. When heat-shock proteins are reduced (which ultimately is what you want because that means reducing inflammation, which is essential for protecting cell development), cells appear to live longer. That’s the association.
We suppose Dimitri James theorized that geranylgeranylacetone (as teprenone) may also have a helpful effect when applied topically. After all, skin has heat-shock proteins, and it certainly is exposed to enough stressful situations so that an ingredient that could help these proteins function more efficiently would be a benefit. However, there’s no research proving that topically applied geranylgeranylacetone has any effect on heat-shock proteins in skin. What works when you take it orally does not always relate to topical application. Moreover, as previously mentioned, Skinn is using a drug ingredient in a cosmetic product, which means the consumer is the guinea pig. For that reason alone, this isn’t a product worth considering, though the overall formula doesn’t deserve an Poor rating.
As women age the first area to show the advanced signs of damage and time is the neck area. Skinn research shows that the neck area ages in one of two ways: Type A women experience thinning, collapsing brittle skin on the neck that becomes dry and sinks with diminished elasticity ("chicken neck"), or Type B women experience a heavier full neck ("double chin"). Both types of aging necks experience age spots and lines. Skinn responds with two custom formulas in serum strength creams for Type A or Type B aging.
Type B: Chin-Up Firm, Lift and Tone streamlining cream for heavier necks and fuller jaw lines was specifically created with Ovaliss™ complex, an advanced coconut extract shown to strengthen, tighten and help burn excess fat deposits that accumulate on the neck area. Renovage™ will help slow down the aging process on heavier necks by 33% and help to diminish age spots and lines. The result is a more streamlined, less full, firmer looking neck and jaw line.
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Oleosomes, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Glycereth-26, Glycerin and Coco-Glucoside and Caprylyl Glycol and Alcohol and Glaucine (Ovaliss™), Hyaluronic Acid, Phospholipids, Caffeine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Teprenone (Renovage™), Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Petitgrain) Leaf Oil, Cholecalciferol (Vitamin D), Disodium Edta, Copper PCA
Dimitri James is a makeup artist, hair stylist, and fashion consultant who spent two decades working for some of the biggest cosmetics companies in the world. After stints with brands such as Estee Lauder and Revlon, he decided, as so many others have before him, to launch his own products. Apparently, he was disenchanted with the business model most large cosmetics companies follow. According to James, the formula was always the same: "make a cheap product, put it in a fancy jar with a nice box and charge as much as possible." His cynical summation is definitely appreciated by those of us on the Cosmetics Cop team. Ironically, however, for the most part, Skinn's business model mimics the business model of many large and small cosmetics companies; that is, his products come in fancy jars, make inane unsupported claims, and are absurdly overpriced. Adding to that insanity, many of his products are poorly formulated.
Aside from the glaring same old, same old mix of disenchantment, those hoping for some good news about Skinn products will be pleased to know that this line does have some products worth considering. That doesn't mean the claims are accurate or that they outperform excellent products from many other lines. Overlooking the omission of reliable sunscreen from this line, the handful of good formulas are capable of getting as close as possible to keeping skin looking youthful and healthy. They won't replace cosmetic corrective procedures, but no skin-care routine will do that. Please refer to the list of strengths for products worth your attention; any products not on that list you can skip, unless you want to set yourself up for disappointment, and you will be disappointed if you expect the farfetched claims to come true.
Skinn's promises for their makeup—that they will make you a picture of airbrushed perfection—are beyond reality. Today's best makeup products can go a long way toward making a beautiful finish to your appearance and they're easier to apply than ever before. Just keep in mind that technique still plays a major role, so don't expect any makeup product to be the final answer. Skinn's color line has just as many misses as hits, so shop carefully. In this case, the foundations and concealer are not worth considering over countless others, but there are some great powder blushes and eyeshadows, a fantastic eye pencil, and mascaras that perform beautifully; but again, these are easily replaced with less expensive options. Those intrigued by makeup palettes may find some good options here, too.
All told, the Skinn line has a handful of impressive products, but it's not remotely "the revolution in cosmetics" Dimitri James makes it out to be. For more information about Skinn by Dimitri James, call (866) 346-4874 or visit www.skinn.com.
Note: This line is sold primarily on home shopping channels.