04.25.2013
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[C] Renewal System Microdermabrasion Mask
Rating
2.24 fl. oz. for $93
Category:Skin Care > Scrubs > Scrubs
Last Updated:04.25.2013
Jar Packaging:No
Tested on animals:Yes
Review Overview

The fact that this scrub/mask hybrid (it's really just a scrub) is packaged individually isn't about a special formulary need; rather, it's meant to make this very expensive product seem more clinical than it really is. The main ingredient is calcium chloride, a mineral that reacts with water to release heat. There's no water in this product, so the heat doesn't occur until you apply this scrub to damp skin. Although it may feel nice, it isn't beneficial. Heat doesn't dilate pores as Sothys claims and it cannot deep-clean skin; as a matter of fact, you can't, and don't want to, get beneath the surface with a cleanser. Consider this a glorified scrub that can be more abrasive than many others. The basic formula of a mineral oil–derived base along with polyethylene as the scrub particles makes the price a joke. Wrinkles cannot be scrubbed away, but using a scrub like this too aggressively on wrinkles can cause inflammation that, while damaging to skin over the long term, makes wrinkles appear less severe for a short while due to the swelling it causes. For additional details on plastic microbeads in cosmetics, see the More Info section below.

More Info:

Plastic Microbeads in Cosmetics: This product contains polyethylene beads, which is an ingredient that has come under controversy in the recent past. In December of 2013, research published in the peer-reviewed journal, Marine Pollution Bulletin demonstrated that although polyurethane beads are non-toxic to humans, they are not filtered during sewage treatment and are accumulating in waterways. This means the beads have the potential to negatively affect marine wildlife who mistakenly consume them (Marine Pollution Bulletin, 2013).

Additional research published in December of 2013 demonstrated that polyurethane beads have the potential to absorb pollutants while in waterways. This research was conducted to establish the potential of absorption, however, and was not conducted using samples from actual waterways (Cell, 2013).

Beautypedia does not take an ideological stance in reviewing skincare products; rather, our reviews are based upon each product's potential harm or benefit to skin contingent upon what independent peer-reviewed scientific research has demonstrated. On issues like polyethylene beads in cosmetics or animal testing, we present the facts without judgment so that you may make your own decision whether or not this product is right for you.

Claims

A self- heating home micro-dermabrasion treatment that refines skin texture. With the thermal action, this mask dilates pores and deep cleanses, immediate renews and smoothes skin with fresh appearance. Proven average reduction of wrinkle’s depth: 22% after 30 days.

Ingredients

Calcium Chloride, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isododecane, Polyethylene, Titanium Dioxide, Silica, Dimethiconol, Polysorbate 20, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil Extract, PEG-15/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Salicylic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate

Brand Overview

Sothys Paris At-A-Glance

Strengths: Shockingly, this line has no strengths, but it does deserve mention for good self-tanning products and their Double Lightening Serum.

Weaknesses: Expensive; a preposterous number of ordinary moisturizer and serum formulas sold with grandiose claims; overuse of fragrance; several moisturizers contain.

We have to admit we weren't looking forward to reviewing this line. We've been aware of Sothys for some time, and over the years many women have asked us what we thought of it. We don't ever mind being asked what we think of a product line, but in this case it was the way we were asked that we found depressing. Somehow this spa-oriented line has developed an almost reverent reputation for being a superior skin-care line.

A question would go like this, "What do you think of Sothys?" We would reply, "Not much, the formulas are either out of date or contain problematic ingredients and the price tag is silly for what you get." Inevitably, the response would be, "Really? I thought it was one of the best lines around … it's French, you know?" Sigh. Yes, we do know. But …

Despite a long French-heritage, dating back to 1946, this spa-oriented brand with a vast array of products doesn't deserve a reputation for being anything other than an overpriced spa  brand to avoid.

Most of Sothys skin-care formularies are so far behind the times that using them is akin to using a typewriter instead of a computer—the formulations are as ordinary and mundane as it gets. Almost all their moisturizers lack any reasonable amount of antioxidants, skin-identical ingredients, or cell-communicating ingredients. Also consider that there are no effective products for those struggling with blemishes or blackheads, despite their claims. It is astounding that in a line with dozens of facial moisturizers (most with repetitive formulas), not a single one includes a sunscreen. How can this brand be so incredibly blind to the number one cause of wrinkles and skin aging? If they aren't aware of the critical importance of sun protection, then how much do you want to trust them in any other aspect of helping your skin?

Sothys makes much ado about the training it provides to aestheticians. Not having attended any of their classes, we can't speak specifically to the content of what they teach, but if their products are even vaguely representative of what they inculcate, woe to those aestheticians who rely on Sothys as their source of skin-care education.

When all is said and done, and you've gotten past the smoke and mirrors, nothing else matters if you don't have well-formulated products, sunscreens, exfoliants, acne products, options for rosacea and sensitive skin, and/or reasonable pricing. And that's where Sothys falls flat on its scrubbed, steamed, masked, and spa "purified" face.

For more information about Sothys Paris, call (305) 594-4222 or visit www.sothys-usa.com.

Note: Several names on Sothys Web site and other sites retailing this brand list one name on the product page and another on the product itself. In our reviews we list the name on the product itself.

About the Experts

The new Beautypedia Team proudly and unequivocally maintains the commitment to help you find the best products possible for your skin. We do this by relentlessly pursuing and relying on published scientific research so you will have unbiased information on what works and what doesn't-and the sneaky ways you could be making your skin worse, not better!


The Beautypedia Team reviews all products using the same research, criteria, and objectivity, whether the product being reviewed is from Paula's Choice or another brand.

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